Jeff at Gyeon
05-02-2018, 04:25 PM
Hey Guys!
I want to start a discussion today on the 3 products in the GYEON quartz line (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon.html) that are designed specifically for maintaining coated vehicles, but can certainly be used as stand alone "sealant" type products: Q2M Bathe+ (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-bathe-plus.html), Q2M WetCoat (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-wetcoat.html), and Q2M Cure (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-cure.html).
https://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/89155/bathe_wetcoat_cure_800-1.jpg
Lets start by defining what we are talking about when we say "maintain" a coated vehicle. Once a coating is properly applied, our responsibility is to create an environment where we allow that coating to perform its desired function at the highest level possible. We want a coating to protect the surface underneath from UV and environmental degradation, to repel dirt and contaminant, last X number of years, and look great.
The way we help the coating do that is by 1. keeping the surface clean so that contaminant is not allowed to build up, bond to the surface, and begin to degrade it and 2. keep the surface tension of the coating high so that it is freely and actively repelling dirt and contaminant instead of absorbing it. The products above are designed to support #2. They each contain ingredients that are designed to keep the surface tension of the coating high and repelling dirt and contaminant. The surface visually shows us this is happening through its hydrophobic properties (high contact angle water beads).
I'll do another post on how to decontaminate and clean a coating that is showing low surface tension (flat water on the surface) as more often than not, there is some build up of contaminant on the surface (snow, car sat under a tree in the rain, sprinkler water, etc) that has changed the surface tension and killed the water beading. Just because the water behavior has changed does not mean that the coating is gone or failing. It is still in place performing its UV and chemical protection functions, we just need to get it repelling contaminant again. Usually an easy fix.
So the above 3 products perform the exact same function: keep the surface tension of the coating in a state that it can repel dirt and contaminant at the highest level. They just use 3 different ways to introduce the product to the surface:
1. Bathe+ (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-bathe-plus.html) introduces it through a wash soap. 15-20 ml in to about 4 gals of water will do it. Wash an area at a time and immediately rinse with good pressure. The only way to mess this one up is to wash the entire car at once and allow some of the soap to dry and dwell on the surface, as it will streak. If this does happen and you catch it quickly, soak a microfiber towel in the hottest water you can stand and wipe up the spots/streaks. If you want a more concentrated application, you can put a bit of Bathe+ directly on to your wash mitt, work in to a controlled area, and rinse immediately. I find this version of application to be the most fool proof. It is perfect for weekly or bi weekly washes in the driveway with little margin for error, outside of using too much or washing the whole car at once. Do not expect a ton of suds out of Bathe+. It does not produce a ton. The main function of this soap is designed around lubricity (remove loose dirt from a coated surface as safely as possible) and adding hydrophobic properties.
2. WetCoat (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-wetcoat.html) is applied to a clean but still very wet surface. You would wash the car as normal and rinse as normal, but do not dry. This is also a "less is more" product. It is easy to think that if it's applied to a dry surface or if more is used, than it will work better. That is asking for streaks or spots as it is heavily concentrated right in the bottle. Again, we want to work the car in sections. So pick the upper areas first. Apply 3-4 sprays across the wet hood and immediately rinse with good pressure. I like to keep the car very wet when using WetCoat and rinse the previous section and the next section to avoid any over spray drying on the surface. Once the hood is complete, move to the fender. 2-3 sprays on the fender and immediately rinse. Move on to the door and so on. You will immediately see the water beading properties jump through the roof. In a controlled environment like an indoor wash bay, out of the wind and sun, this is my favorite application method. You can easily and quickly apply to every exterior surface (glass, trim, paint, wheels, etc) and rinse off with very little worry of overuse or streaking. Where Bathe+ is used as the regular wash soap, WetCoat can be applied every 8-12 weeks. If your bottle of WetCoat has or starts to get a bit of coagulation at the top of the bottle do not worry. This is normal and does not affect performance. I have a bottle from SEMA 2015 that I keep to use once in a while just to test this and it is a chunky mess.
3. Cure (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-cure.html) is applied as a "dry" wipe on product. You would wash, rinse, and dry the car as normal. And then apply Cure directly on the dry surface. Cure is great for paint, trim, wheels, glass, and any other exterior surface. It is the most concentrated way to introduce product to the paint, so you do have the opportunity to over apply and streak where using Bathe+ or WetCoat you have water to carry the excess product off the surface. I like to spray Cure directly on to a microfiber towel (1-2 sprays) and then work in to a shoulder width area, using a second microfiber towel to pick up excess material. You can dilute cure as some do with 50/50 distilled water. You can also use a wet microfiber as the application towel to serve the same diluting function and help move the product around. Cure is designed to be used every 10-12 weeks. You will see the most durability out of Cure. Cure is great as an 8-10 week stand alone sealant.
There is no real benefit to using the above products together (ie: applying Cure after WetCoat in the same session). You will reach a point where there is too much material built up on the surface and it will streak, as the surface below can no longer absorb it.
So totally personal preference on which delivery method to use. They all have their pro's and con's.
Hope this sheds some light on the distinctions between the 3 products and what might work best for you. Glad to answer any other questions!
I want to start a discussion today on the 3 products in the GYEON quartz line (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon.html) that are designed specifically for maintaining coated vehicles, but can certainly be used as stand alone "sealant" type products: Q2M Bathe+ (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-bathe-plus.html), Q2M WetCoat (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-wetcoat.html), and Q2M Cure (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-cure.html).
https://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/89155/bathe_wetcoat_cure_800-1.jpg
Lets start by defining what we are talking about when we say "maintain" a coated vehicle. Once a coating is properly applied, our responsibility is to create an environment where we allow that coating to perform its desired function at the highest level possible. We want a coating to protect the surface underneath from UV and environmental degradation, to repel dirt and contaminant, last X number of years, and look great.
The way we help the coating do that is by 1. keeping the surface clean so that contaminant is not allowed to build up, bond to the surface, and begin to degrade it and 2. keep the surface tension of the coating high so that it is freely and actively repelling dirt and contaminant instead of absorbing it. The products above are designed to support #2. They each contain ingredients that are designed to keep the surface tension of the coating high and repelling dirt and contaminant. The surface visually shows us this is happening through its hydrophobic properties (high contact angle water beads).
I'll do another post on how to decontaminate and clean a coating that is showing low surface tension (flat water on the surface) as more often than not, there is some build up of contaminant on the surface (snow, car sat under a tree in the rain, sprinkler water, etc) that has changed the surface tension and killed the water beading. Just because the water behavior has changed does not mean that the coating is gone or failing. It is still in place performing its UV and chemical protection functions, we just need to get it repelling contaminant again. Usually an easy fix.
So the above 3 products perform the exact same function: keep the surface tension of the coating in a state that it can repel dirt and contaminant at the highest level. They just use 3 different ways to introduce the product to the surface:
1. Bathe+ (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-bathe-plus.html) introduces it through a wash soap. 15-20 ml in to about 4 gals of water will do it. Wash an area at a time and immediately rinse with good pressure. The only way to mess this one up is to wash the entire car at once and allow some of the soap to dry and dwell on the surface, as it will streak. If this does happen and you catch it quickly, soak a microfiber towel in the hottest water you can stand and wipe up the spots/streaks. If you want a more concentrated application, you can put a bit of Bathe+ directly on to your wash mitt, work in to a controlled area, and rinse immediately. I find this version of application to be the most fool proof. It is perfect for weekly or bi weekly washes in the driveway with little margin for error, outside of using too much or washing the whole car at once. Do not expect a ton of suds out of Bathe+. It does not produce a ton. The main function of this soap is designed around lubricity (remove loose dirt from a coated surface as safely as possible) and adding hydrophobic properties.
2. WetCoat (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-wetcoat.html) is applied to a clean but still very wet surface. You would wash the car as normal and rinse as normal, but do not dry. This is also a "less is more" product. It is easy to think that if it's applied to a dry surface or if more is used, than it will work better. That is asking for streaks or spots as it is heavily concentrated right in the bottle. Again, we want to work the car in sections. So pick the upper areas first. Apply 3-4 sprays across the wet hood and immediately rinse with good pressure. I like to keep the car very wet when using WetCoat and rinse the previous section and the next section to avoid any over spray drying on the surface. Once the hood is complete, move to the fender. 2-3 sprays on the fender and immediately rinse. Move on to the door and so on. You will immediately see the water beading properties jump through the roof. In a controlled environment like an indoor wash bay, out of the wind and sun, this is my favorite application method. You can easily and quickly apply to every exterior surface (glass, trim, paint, wheels, etc) and rinse off with very little worry of overuse or streaking. Where Bathe+ is used as the regular wash soap, WetCoat can be applied every 8-12 weeks. If your bottle of WetCoat has or starts to get a bit of coagulation at the top of the bottle do not worry. This is normal and does not affect performance. I have a bottle from SEMA 2015 that I keep to use once in a while just to test this and it is a chunky mess.
3. Cure (http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-cure.html) is applied as a "dry" wipe on product. You would wash, rinse, and dry the car as normal. And then apply Cure directly on the dry surface. Cure is great for paint, trim, wheels, glass, and any other exterior surface. It is the most concentrated way to introduce product to the paint, so you do have the opportunity to over apply and streak where using Bathe+ or WetCoat you have water to carry the excess product off the surface. I like to spray Cure directly on to a microfiber towel (1-2 sprays) and then work in to a shoulder width area, using a second microfiber towel to pick up excess material. You can dilute cure as some do with 50/50 distilled water. You can also use a wet microfiber as the application towel to serve the same diluting function and help move the product around. Cure is designed to be used every 10-12 weeks. You will see the most durability out of Cure. Cure is great as an 8-10 week stand alone sealant.
There is no real benefit to using the above products together (ie: applying Cure after WetCoat in the same session). You will reach a point where there is too much material built up on the surface and it will streak, as the surface below can no longer absorb it.
So totally personal preference on which delivery method to use. They all have their pro's and con's.
Hope this sheds some light on the distinctions between the 3 products and what might work best for you. Glad to answer any other questions!