Used car full detail

[Paulfrom94]

Hi guy I will be doing a full paint correction and detail to my car.
I just bought a used 2017 Ruby Red Mustang for a great price.
The only problem is that the paint is not in good condition.
There are a ton of swirls and hairline scratches.

The steps I plan on using are:

Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Clay- Griot's Garage Brilliant Finish Synthetic Clay ( I have normal clay but prefer the ease of synthetics)
Second Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Compound- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ( I have M105 but I find it becomes very dusty and stains trim so I prefer UC)
Polish- Meguiar's Ultimate Polish (I have M205 but prefer UP due to the same problems as M105)
Third Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Sealant/Wax- Collinite 845 (I have Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax but want to see how good 845 is since I hear great things about it)


One question I have is should I do a IPA wipe down after Polishing to remove the oils from the UC and UP before I apply 845 to increase 845's longevity?

I will be using a PC 7424XP with a 3",3.5"and 5" Backing plate as that is all I have.
The pads I will be using are:

Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5.5" Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pads (Quantity: 6 Pads)
Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5.5" Tangerine Ultra Polishing Foam Pads (Quantity: 6 Pads)
Lake Country 3.5" Flat Yellow Cutting Pads (Quantity: 3) (for tighter spots or sharp body lines)
Lake Country 3.5" Flat Orange Light Cutting Pads (Quantity: 3) (for tighter spots or sharp body lines)


I was planning on applying the 845 by hand but now I'm leaning towards buying a Griot's Garage 5.5" Red Foam Waxing pad to make it easier on myself.

I only have one car so this is my daily driver so just keep that in mind.
I have a garage where I can work but mostly my car is parked in the driveway for easy access.
If you guys have any suggestions on how I should change my steps to get better results or anything I should be aware of, I would really appreciate it.

Thank you!

EDIT:
I will be maintaining the car with washing once a week followed by a spray wax.
Reapplying 845 or ULW every 2-3 months.
Polishing once a year.
No compound unless really needed.

[custmsprty]

Try doing a one step with Menzerna FG-400 and save yourself all that time.

This Porsche SUV was a mess, megas swirls, hard water etching etc. Six hours total, start to finish.

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Here's a link to my post:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/118401-2015-black-porsche-cayenne-correction-fg400-polish-angel-master-sealant.html?highlight=

[Maxreed241]

Hi guy I will be doing a full paint correction and detail to my car.
I just bought a used 2017 Ruby Red Mustang for a great price.
The only problem is that the paint is not in good condition.
There are a ton of swirls and hairline scratches.

The steps I plan on using are:

Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Clay- Griot's Garage Brilliant Finish Synthetic Clay ( I have normal clay but prefer the ease of synthetics)
Second Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Compound- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ( I have M105 but I find it becomes very dusty and stains trim so I prefer UC)
Polish- Meguiar's Ultimate Polish (I have M205 but prefer UP due to the same problems as M105)
Third Wash- CG Honeydew Snow Foam
Sealant/Wax- Collinite 845 (I have Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax but want to see how good 845 is since I hear great things about it)


One question I have is should I do a IPA wipe down after Polishing to remove the oils from the UC and UP before I apply 845 to increase 845's longevity?

I will be using a PC 7424XP with a 3",3.5"and 5" Backing plate as that is all I have.
The pads I will be using are:

Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5.5" Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pads (Quantity: 6 Pads)
Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5.5" Tangerine Ultra Polishing Foam Pads (Quantity: 6 Pads)
Lake Country 3.5" Flat Yellow Cutting Pads (Quantity: 3) (for tighter spots or sharp body lines)
Lake Country 3.5" Flat Orange Light Cutting Pads (Quantity: 3) (for tighter spots or sharp body lines)


I was planning on applying the 845 by hand but now I'm leaning towards buying a Griot's Garage 5.5" Red Foam Waxing pad to make it easier on myself.

I only have one car so this is my daily driver so just keep that in mind.
I have a garage where I can work but mostly my car is parked in the driveway for easy access.
If you guys have any suggestions on how I should change my steps to get better results or anything I should be aware of, I would really appreciate it.

Thank you!

EDIT:
I will be maintaining the car with washing once a week followed by a spray wax.
Reapplying 845 or ULW every 2-3 months.
Polishing once a year.
No compound unless really needed.

Pretty good product list and process. The only thing I would change is to skip the second and third wash. I feel like it adds a lot of time for not a lot of gain. Just my thoughts.

[Paulfrom94]

I will take that into consideration and only do one wash.
The reason I added the second wash is because I use the soapy water as lubrication for the clay so I use it to get any dried water and soap off the car after claying.

Thank you

[custmsprty]

Do a test spot first to see if you even need to do a two step porcess. I personally haven't done a two step polish in years for corrections. My personal pursuit in the detailing process has been to see what's the best finish I can achieve in a one step process with a polish and pad and machine combination. I don't like slaving over a vehicle for hours and hours and hours.

I posted this a few years ago. This Chevy was a total mess. It was neglected for over 7 years. One step with FG400 and then LSP. Eight hours total time on the job.

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Nasty pads!!!

Also note the build up and the were cleaned on the fly too. Build up leads to over heating, dusting and not too mention you are grinding that grunge into the paint you are trying to polish and perfect. You can never have enough pads. I used 6-7 if I recall on this job.

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[Paulfrom94]

Do a test spot first to see if you even need to do a two step porcess. I personally haven't done a two step polish in years for corrections. My personal pursuit in the detailing process has been to see what's the best finish I can achieve in a one step process with a polish and pad and machine combination. I don't like slaving over a vehicle for hours and hours and hours.

I posted this a few years ago. This Chevy was a total mess. It was neglected for over 7 years. One step with FG400 and then LSP. Eight hours total time on the job.

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I have tried a test spot with UP but there are quite a few deeper scratches that wouldn't come out but did with UC.
I do agree with you compounding usually isn't needed but unfortunately my car is in bad shape since it used to be a rental vehicle.
EDIT: Also I would prefer not to buy more products as this is just a hobby and my garage is filling up with products lol.

[Paulfrom94]

Does anyone know if I should I do a IPA wipe down after Polishing to remove the oils from the UC and UP before I apply 845 to increase 845's longevity?

[SWETM]

If you want to get maximum longevity do a ipa wipe down or even 2 since up is heavy on polishing oils. ULW was used it would be more synergy and not so much of benefit with a ipa wipe down. I would ad an ironx product to do before the claying and look closely on the paint if you see tar spots or alot of tree sap and then ad a tar remover too. This will make the claying more effective and get the paint as clean as possible before polishing it. The third wash I would skip and do the ipa wipe down instead.

Good luck and have fun!

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I agree with Swetm, I would have included a step of IRON-X. I think you may be overdoing it with the wash unless the first wash is to try to remove tar and sap.
There are two types of washes, aggressive and gentle. Aggressive usually involves removing of grime and sap with first using some form of chemical (Tar-X or Tarminator) on isolated areas.

So for aggressive my process is:
Wheels / Wheel wells
Engine / Engine Bay
Tarminator on bumper covers, rocker and lower panels with some form of bug/tar sponge (knowing I'll be correcting later)
Iron-X --> Here is where you save time; DO NOT RINSE, go right to your foam bath
Foam Bath / 2bm wash
Dry
Inspect the paint (baggie test)
Clay (I use clay mitts)
Inspect the paint
Get it in the garage and start correction (test spots first)
Compound / Polish
<<<<Determine the LSP, this will determine next step. >>>>
If doing a coating, use a proprietary panel wipe, such as CarPro Erasure. I like Erasure better than an ISP because; 1. it smells nice 2.) It has lubricity. The problem with an IPA is typically no lubricity. You run the risk of putting scratches in the vehicle you just finished polishing.
Apply coating

<<< If no coating>>>

Go right to LSP. There is no need to do an IPA or wipe down. Again, mitigate risk, or if you have to, use Erasure.

Gentle Wash
Wheels (light agitation with Speed Master)
Foam Bath
Rinse
Blow Dry
Inspect the paint and either reapply a second coat of LSP or in my case, nothing at all since the vehicles have CQUK or Gtechniq EXO coatings.
Clean the glass and take it for a drive. :)


Hope this helps!

[Avgguy]

I agree with Swetm, I would have included a step of IRON-X. I think you may be overdoing it with the wash unless the first wash is to try to remove tar and sap.
There are two types of washes, aggressive and gentle. Aggressive usually involves removing of grime and sap with first using some form of chemical (Tar-X or Tarminator) on isolated areas.

So for aggressive my process is:
Wheels / Wheel wells
Engine / Engine Bay
Tarminator on bumper covers, rocker and lower panels with some form of bug/tar sponge (knowing I'll be correcting later)
Iron-X --> Here is where you save time; DO NOT RINSE, go right to your foam bath
Foam Bath / 2bm wash
Dry
Inspect the paint (baggie test)
Clay (I use clay mitts)
Inspect the paint
Get it in the garage and start correction (test spots first)
Compound / Polish
<<<<Determine the LSP, this will determine next step. >>>>
If doing a coating, use a proprietary panel wipe, such as CarPro Erasure. I like Erasure better than an ISP because; 1. it smells nice 2.) It has lubricity. The problem with an IPA is typically no lubricity. You run the risk of putting scratches in the vehicle you just finished polishing.
Apply coating

<<< If no coating>>>

Go right to LSP. There is no need to do an IPA or wipe down. Again, mitigate risk, or if you have to, use Erasure.

Gentle Wash
Wheels (light agitation with Speed Master)
Foam Bath
Rinse
Blow Dry
Inspect the paint and either reapply a second coat of LSP or in my case, nothing at all since the vehicles have CQUK or Gtechniq EXO coatings.
Clean the glass and take it for a drive. :)


Hope this helps!

Fantastic post and good question from OP.

[fightnews]

Try doing a one step with Menzerna FG-400 and save yourself all that time.

This Porsche SUV was a mess, megas swirls, hard water etching etc. Six hours total, start to finish.

Roof Reflection
63311

63312

63313

Here's a link to my post:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/118401-2015-black-porsche-cayenne-correction-fg400-polish-angel-master-sealant.html?highlight=

I agree in the fg 400 but I would recommend a follow up step with 3500. Especially since it's your own car. That Porsche has no glow like your other black car. Needs a follow up step imo

[chet31]

Good process, over the years I've learned to cheat.

UC vs M105: I agree M105 isn't that fun to use, but it cuts so well. I mix it 50:50 with UC, makes it a pleasure to use. I have no problem with M205 dusting, I use that straight up.

2nd wash: Instead of a full wash, I just do a quick waterless wash with Poor Boy's Spray and Wipe. I just want to make sure I pick up any grit left behind by claying. You could use ONR or even something like a quick detailer. Much quicker than a full wash.

3rd wash: Same as 2nd wash, except my goal here is to pick up residual polish and oils.

IPA or Panel Wipe: I don't do this. The surface is dry, how much oil can there be? Even if there is some, you're applying sealant with a machine. You're going to overwhelm any small amount of oil left behind. You'll find your own methods, enjoy the car.