Serveral questions about DA polishing

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Hey so I tried out my cheapo polisher today and it turned out not to bad, just tried it on the side door for practise and see.

But I had a few questions that came up.

Are polish generally used for swirl marks and compounds for scratches?

Also what should the DA polisher look like. I wasn't sure if I was applying to much pressure and then there was no work being done since it stops spinning. And at how fast is going, I'm just curious if there's a way to tell you putting to much pressure and no work is being done.

[Mike Phillips]

Hey so I tried out my cheapo polisher today and it turned out not to bad, just tried it on the side door for practise and see.

But I had a few questions that came up.

Are polish generally used for swirl marks and compounds for scratches?

Also what should the DA polisher look like. I wasn't sure if I was applying to much pressure and then there was no work being done since it stops spinning. And at how fast is going, I'm just curious if there's a way to tell you putting to much pressure and no work is being done.



Compound for deep defects

Polish for shallow defects or use after compound to refine results of compound


Click this thread, scroll down and watch the video... probably one of the best videos Yancy and I have ever made. It shows everything you want to do to machine polish a car if you're new to this.


Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Ftinyurl.com%2Fy736nudd)




:)

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Compound for deep defects

Polish for shallow defects or use after compound to refine results of compound


Click this thread, scroll down and watch the video... probably one of the best videos Yancy and I have ever made. It shows everything you want to do to machine polish a car if you're new to this.


Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Ftinyurl.com%2Fy736nudd)




:)

Oh shoot! Mike answered me! Hahaha

I was currently watching all your How To video series! Thanks I'll give that link a read to!

[MarkD51]

Great that Master Mike responded.
There is a learning curve, the basics are simple.

But they can become complicated beyond any human comprehension and simple answers when you got 14 companies each making 42 different polishing pads, and 729 different polishes and compounds at your fingertips, and all just here at the AutoGeek Store.

Of course I'm taking out of my Dupa a little bit, but you probably get the picture. As far as actual number count, I'm probably not that far off! LOL

Technique and the ole Eyeball are just a couple things that come with a little bit of hands on experience. You can't talk the talk without walking the walk. The overall theme, is IMO "Less is More".

You can always repeat a process if your processes have appeared to have been "too mild". But you cannot turn back the clock with the use of aggressive compounds, Lambswool Bonnets, and spinning a Rotary Polisher at 32,000 rpm, and bring back the paint you just burned down to primer, or metal on the edges. Ask me how I know? LOL (Thank God they were junk-mobiles I did this on)

Yes, there needs to be initial downward pressure, Mike touches on this in his Vids. But as well, you need to know when to lighten up as well, and finesse a machine, and the processes.

The free-wheeling DA Machines will quit in a heartbeat if not paying strict attention to pad contact with the paint.

I doubt there's any free wheeling DA made where you cannot kill rotation with poor technique. Mark those Backing Plates with a Magic Marker, or Sharpie Pen. That will help you see what's going on with rotation while you work.