PDA

View Full Version : Coating Advice - Collective brainpower requested



JCDetails
03-30-2018, 09:18 AM
I've run up against quite a tough decision point here that I'm hoping I can square away using the collective brainpower.


For someone like myself, or a couple of my more 'enthusiats' level clients, I wouldn't think twice if they asked for a coating. My suggestions would range from Gyeon, Kamikaze, Carbon Collective, CQUK as well as GTechniq depending upon what they were looking for and the conditions I'd find myself applying it in.


But someone like my father has me stumped. I've mentioned before I'm going to be working on his BRG F type R. The car has such soft paint, that I really truly want to coat it. I know it would look incredible with Kamikaze ISM+Miyabi, but the difference in maintenance requirement has me thinking that maybe I'm better off with something else.

My dad is very much the type to like to grab a spray wax or QD and shine the car up once a week or before he takes it out for a drive. Also, if it gets dirty for some reason, he might run it through an occasional touchless wash in between when I can take care of it for him. Normally I'd just do a sealant along the lines of Powerlock for that kind of maintenance upkeep, but I really feel like it needs more than that. For that reason, I'm looking at things like Optimum GlossCoat, AMMO reflex, Gyeon CanCoat and the like. But I don't know how much these more flexible coatings enhance scratch resistance which is what I'm mainly concerned about with the soft paint. Maybe cosmic v2 is a good option for this?


I'm sure there are a couple coatings I haven't mentioned above, maybe 22ple or one of those. So what coating would you guys recommend in the situation I'm in?

Desertnate
03-30-2018, 09:57 AM
In the situation you describe I'd do a full on coating, and give your dad a product like CarPro's ECH2O mixed at waterless wash concentrations to do his occasional wipe downs. This way, the car will stay clean-ish, while adding a little booster each time it's used.

As long as you're keeping the car clean and your dad uses a touchless and not a swirl-tunnel wash, the coating should hold up pretty well. The coating won't be a perfect solution to prevent swirls, but it should hold up slightly better than CanCoat or similar.

JCDetails
03-30-2018, 10:00 AM
In the situation you describe I'd do a full on coating, and give your dad a product like CarPro's ECH2O mixed at waterless wash concentrations to do his occasional wipe downs. This way, the car will stay clean-ish, while adding a little booster each time it's used.

As long as you're keeping the car clean and your dad uses a touchless and not a swirl-tunnel wash, the coating should hold up pretty well. The coating won't be a perfect solution to prevent swirls, but it should hold up slightly better than CanCoat or similar.

Thanks, Nate.


My other main concern is water spots, and the special way they need to be remedied with a coating. My dad likes to wipe the thing down, but I don't think he has the patience to go to the lengths I'd go if it were my car.

The Guz
03-30-2018, 10:48 AM
Tough call. I personally was not satisfied with Gloss Coat. I think it is just an ok coating. I put it on my uncles vette that has a soft re-paint. It did not help that much with marring. It marred just as easily with Gloss Coat than just using a regular sealant on it. I ended up putting Cquartz UK on it and that was better but still marred.

Gloss Coat when left to dry forms like a film that does not necessarily harden as I had a little drop in the bag I put it back in. Not sure if that makes sense. CanCoat will crystallize like a cquartz.

I have not used kamikaze or 22ple but they sound like good coating options.

I like CanCoat and think it is pretty durable for what it is. Given that the car is well taken care of and sounds like it spends a lot of time in the garage that will last quite a awhile. I have CanCoat on my moms car that I polished out with Gyeon Primer that has been doing well for almost 7 months now and this car sits outside 24/7.

Sonax CC36 is actually nice. Again it is mentioned to be a flexible coating. But it performs rather nicely and gives a nice look. I have it on my personal car. It plays well with their Brilliant Shine Detailer and Sonax guarantees a 1 year longevity/durability. For me this has outperformed Gloss Coat and has better marr resistance.

Then there is the new Gyeon Syncro as well. Really nice and crazy hydrophobic.

There is a new version of Cquartz UK coming out in a few weeks if you are curious to test that out as well.

I have never had any water spot issues with any coating.

Sorry if this did not help lol. Just jotting some thoughts down for you with this post.

JCDetails
03-30-2018, 10:54 AM
Thanks Guz, definitely did help.

I guess I had sort of written off the Sonax offering as being kind of outside their wheelhouse. May need to look into it and cancoat as options.

I'm mostly concerned with swirl/marring resistance and more importantly love marking resistance (my dad used to use a ratty old bathroom towel to wipe the excess drips after a carwash...almost vomited that day). Also, it working with the same brand QD is the simplicity I was looking for. I had thought of GlossCoat with OCW but Sonax seems like a better option than that.


Have you used any toppers with CanCoat?

BudgetPlan1
03-30-2018, 11:54 AM
But someone like my father has me stumped. I've mentioned before I'm going to be working on his BRG F type R. The car has such soft paint, that I really truly want to coat it. I know it would look incredible with Kamikaze ISM+Miyabi, but the difference in maintenance requirement has me thinking that maybe I'm better off with something else.

The above combo is what is on my personal cars, specifically because of it's ability to stay clean w little attention; it's my top choice for that scenario...and I have 2 black cars. Since October 2016 on wife's daily driver that sits outside 8 months a year, all the maintenance I do is Foam (which is of dubious value but is lotsa fun), wash with Gyeon Bathe (not Bathe+) dry with a Platinum Pluffle occasionally using Overcoat as a drying aid. And that's about it...car pretty much always looks good (except for during NE Ohio winter, when NOTHING looks good).

22ple HPC is another fine choice for low maintenance. Applied it to a fleet vehicle 03/30/2017, didn't get washed but once or twice in a touchless tunnel, soap/rinse only, and 7 months/20k miles later is still looked great and kept itself very clean.

Of all the coatings I've tried, nothing has matched those 2 for staying nice with little attention or additional products needed. Actually, nothing has even come close to those 2 and I've never had water spotting issues with either product despite them often be rained on in the morning and then drying in the sun in the afternoon. 2 solid product lines for sure.

I've tried about 16 or 17 different coatings now and those 2 still stand at the top of the heap for someone who likes clean cars, but doesn't like cleaning cars.

JCDetails
03-30-2018, 01:32 PM
I'm narrowing now a bit. CC36, kamikaze twins, and PA cosmic all seem to be in line with what I need for this car.

The Guz
03-30-2018, 02:54 PM
Thanks Guz, definitely did help.

I guess I had sort of written off the Sonax offering as being kind of outside their wheelhouse. May need to look into it and cancoat as options.

I'm mostly concerned with swirl/marring resistance and more importantly love marking resistance (my dad used to use a ratty old bathroom towel to wipe the excess drips after a carwash...almost vomited that day). Also, it working with the same brand QD is the simplicity I was looking for. I had thought of GlossCoat with OCW but Sonax seems like a better option than that.


Have you used any toppers with CanCoat?

I have and use Gyeon Cure over CanCoat every few washes and they play well together nicely. In between washes I use Ech20 at 1:20 as a drying aid and that also plays nice with CanCoat. Zach has a nice article on Detailed Image on CanCoat that you can check out. It is actually a nice read.

With Sonax, the only con I have with it is the price for the amount included. The kit is good for up to a mid size sedan as I was present during a demonstration of it with the Sonax representatives. I was able to pick their brains a bit. Anything larger than a mid size sedan and you will need an additional kit. It is easy to work with and rather forgiving. At 7 months on my daily driver that sits outside 24/7 here in Southern California it has held up nicely. I am testing an area with Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer versus not topping the coating.

I do have a review for the Sonax coating as I was sent the coating for review purposes from the kind folks of Autogeek. As of right now I would not hesitate to pick up another kit and reuse it again. Simple to maintain with BSD and even Polymer Net Shield which according to the Sonax reps shares similar chemistry with the coating.

Review - Sonax CC36 Ceramic Coating (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/116289-review-sonax-cc36-ceramic-coating.html)

SWETM
03-30-2018, 03:12 PM
I would consider the PA Viking Coat instead of cosmic. Then ad the PA Glasscoat Invicible Primer and PA Viking Spritz topper if ordered through AGO you may have to write to them to ad Invicible Primer as it's for now only sells on Autopia. And absolutely get the PA Cosmic v2 complete kit with the Invicible Primer in it as it's made for cosmic to enhance color and the durability and proper bonding that excells the longevity of it. You don't need to use a finishing polish when useing IP and no curing time between apply cosmic and if your paint only need a finishing polish you don't have to use a panel wipe product. If you are going to polish with another polish do a panel wipe before polishing with IP then you go directly from IP to cosmic or Viking Coat. And to get the best longevity of cosmic apply 2-4 layers so use the whole 50ml bottle to one car. It's a benefit to apply it with a da polisher with a soft wax finishing pad. With IP use a medium cut foam pad when spreading on the lowest speed setting and then medium speed for 1 pass and switch to a finishing pad and do 1 more pass both with slow armspeed. This way you maximize the deminishing abrasive in IP and get a awesome finish.

MarkD51
03-30-2018, 03:40 PM
Thanks, Nate.


My other main concern is water spots, and the special way they need to be remedied with a coating. My dad likes to wipe the thing down, but I don't think he has the patience to go to the lengths I'd go if it were my car.

Just a brain fart comment of mine. I've yet to see anything that doesn't water spot. Dissolved Solids is key. It's why rain water usually never spots. (Soft water)

Example is, you go down to Southern New Mexico, and live there, like I did for 14 years, you'll have a greater understanding how Carlsbad Caverns formed! I kid you not.

And also you drink that wonderful tap water there for a couple of months, you'll be peeing out Kidney Stones the size of Golf Balls!
Ask me how I know? :cry: