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lalojamesliz
03-22-2018, 12:37 AM
I was watching a how to use your flex 3401 vid by Mike Philips and he said to prime each new pad by smearing product your using over the whole pad face and then the few drops and that's what your going to use.

Is this done only with brand new pads for its first use or before you begin using each clean pad. It just seems like a lot of product especially since you should have 8 pads to correct a full size car.
Just want to be sure on this....
Thanks guys

Eldorado2k
03-22-2018, 12:55 AM
Some people subscribe to that method and others don’t. These days it’s considered the proper way to start off a fresh pad..

I personally never prime foam pads. Never.
I’ve always preferred the circle of product method when starting off a fresh foam pad.

IMO a circles worth is always the sweet spot to start a pad off right. From then on 3-4 pea sized dots is all you need.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/e91168d02197fa1742c0234b82a3b7af.jpg

Anything less is not enough and results in too dry of a start.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/e26f767eb9840d0b63b0a38b6bc905ad.jpg

But IMO priming the foam pad + adding 3-4 dots on top of that is overkill and can lead to premature saturation of the pad which is not good for anything.

With a circle, the whole pad is evenly covered in product within the 1st few seconds anyway, without running the risk of clogging up the pores from the start.

The only time I prime pads is when I’m using microfiber pads.

lalojamesliz
03-22-2018, 01:52 AM
Sweet. Thanks man

dlc95
03-22-2018, 08:02 AM
I'm very similar to Eldo.

I usually start with 3 to 5 dots of product on foam pads, and reload with anywhere between 2 and 4 dots - depending on the pad/liquid I'm using.

I do however, prime microfiber pads.

fightnews
03-22-2018, 08:42 AM
It doesn't take as much as you think to butter the pad. You spread it real thin

lalojamesliz
03-22-2018, 12:15 PM
When I first did my SUV with my pc7424xp I was following directions from chemical guys with 4-5 drops and a spray of pad conditioner usually just on a clean pad right before it got used
Do any of you guys ever use pad conditioner or something similar? I think it's like claybar lube

dlc95
03-22-2018, 05:06 PM
When I first did my SUV with my pc7424xp I was following directions from chemical guys with 4-5 drops and a spray of pad conditioner usually just on a clean pad right before it got used
Do any of you guys ever use pad conditioner or something similar? I think it's like claybar lube

Not unless I'm using foam on a rotary. That's an old carryover from the directions on the Meguiar's bottles.

Mike@ShineStruck
03-22-2018, 06:35 PM
I don't prime my foam pads
I do 5 peansize dots then 3 after which is always on a new spot.

Never had any issues with cutting nor finishing

PaulMys
03-22-2018, 07:40 PM
I'm in agreement with Eldo on the circle.

When I started out, I tried priming the pad first. Led to premature saturation of the pad IME. Then I tried just the 3 pea-sized dots. Didn't seem like quite enough product. (Again, IME).

Then I thought to myself: Why not put a thin bead around the whole pad?

Bingo. It worked for me, and that is my method now. The circle method has worked for me using LC flats, Thin Pros, and B&S.

rangerbay
03-22-2018, 07:52 PM
I prime real coarse cutting foam pads. On medium cut or smoother, I just put an x for the first pass, then pea sized drops after, depending on what I'm doing. I do not condition rotary foam pads, it will just sling it all over you!

Bill

Paul A.
03-22-2018, 09:14 PM
I use Mike's method and retire each pad much earlier now compared to my old method of 3-5 dots or thin x pattern. Because I have adopted Mike's priming method I'm using a lot more pads per job but my results have improved.

I do like the logic of having as much product working each section. I'll go 2, maybe 3 sections and swap out and prime a fresh, clean pad and have seen firsthand results improved.

I'm trying to convince anyone...just my experience.

PaulMys
03-22-2018, 09:21 PM
I use Mike's method and retire each pad much earlier now compared to my old method of 3-5 dots or thin x pattern. Because I have adopted Mike's priming method I'm using a lot more pads per job but my results have improved.

I do like the logic of having as much product working each section. I'll go 2, maybe 3 sections and swap out and prime a fresh, clean pad and have seen firsthand results improved.

I'm trying to convince anyone...just my experience.

Exactly Mike's point of "Find something that works, and stick with it".

All of us have adopted our own methods, and we like to share those with the AGO crowd.

Funny thing is, it is all these methods that both inform and drive a newbie completely insane at the same time. (Speaking from experience). Lol

dlc95
03-22-2018, 09:33 PM
I use Mike's method and retire each pad much earlier now compared to my old method of 3-5 dots or thin x pattern. Because I have adopted Mike's priming method I'm using a lot more pads per job but my results have improved.

I do like the logic of having as much product working each section. I'll go 2, maybe 3 sections and swap out and prime a fresh, clean pad and have seen firsthand results improved.

I'm trying to convince anyone...just my experience.

I tried it a couple times - even recently, and it worked very well!

I used M100 with some standard orange LC flats, which seemed like the perfect type of pad for that priming method.

The green Buff and Shine pads I use to cut have a more open cell structure, which just ends up getting over saturated using that method, very quickly.

Calendyr
03-22-2018, 11:28 PM
Yes, I always prime the pad. You can work without doing it, but the problem is that the areas on your pad without product on it will not be working to correct or polish. So if half your pad has no product on it, you are only 50% effective meaning it will take you twice as long to achieve the same result. Up to you ;)

Eldorado2k
03-22-2018, 11:44 PM
Yes, I always prime the pad. You can work without doing it, but the problem is that the areas on your pad without product on it will not be working to correct or polish. So if half your pad has no product on it, you are only 50% effective meaning it will take you twice as long to achieve the same result. Up to you ;)

Isn’t it impossible for that to actually happen? I mean if that were true, there’d be open gaps when you go to wipe off the polish.. And since there’s never any dry gaps when wiping off, then that means that even the dry areas of the unprimed pad have come in contact with the polish within the 1st couple of seconds of you turning the polisher on.