AIO Followed By Finishing Polish - Wipe Down/Off AIO Between The Two?

[ralphsmithiii]

Hey guys, I know I've seen this answer before somewhere but it's been a challenge to find the info (for me) via the search feature.

My question is, if I'm using an AIO to do some light correction (using PF2500) and I want to do a round with a finishing polish (looking to buy 3D HD+ today), is it required/recommended to wipe the PF2500 off the paint before I do a run with the 3D HD+ and a fresh finish pad? I believe I had read before that you could just run the finishing polish over the paint but part of my broken logic thinks that you may just be spreading/mixing the two together and thus not getting the same effectiveness with running the 3D HD+ on "clean" paint. It doesn't take much time to wipe the panels down with a towel, but if I'm doing "extra" work when I don't have to then I'll skip that step. After the finishing polish I'll hit it with Wolfgang Perfect Prep then followup with a ceramic coat.

[Eldorado2k]

You’re asking for trouble laying down a AIO right before a coating, even if you’re going to use the paint prep. There’s a chance it won’t completely come off with it being just applied.

Just my 2 cents.

[ralphsmithiii]

I was going to apply the finishing polish after the AIO. I know that Menzurna products typically are oil-based. Would doing the finishing polish + the paint prep not ensure I don't have issues with the AIO? Or, what am I supposed to do after using the AIO but before putting ceramic coating?

[Eldorado2k]

I was going to apply the finishing polish after the AIO. I know that Menzurna products typically are oil-based. Would doing the finishing polish + the paint prep not ensure I don't have issues with the AIO? Or, what am I supposed to do after using the AIO but before putting ceramic coating?

If it was me I’d skip using the AIO altogether in this case. After all, you don’t need the sealant/wax portion of it [you’re planning on trying to remove it immediately after laying it down] + any polishing will be more than taken care of with the finishing polish you plan on using.

What exact benefits are you hoping to gain by using the AIO? It seems like it’s only purpose would be to create more work and uncertainty.

[Desertnate]

If it was me I’d skip using the AIO altogether in this case. After all, you don’t need the sealant/wax portion of it [you’re planning on trying to remove it immediately after laying it down] + any polishing will be more than taken care of with the finishing polish you plan on using.

Not only are you asking for trouble like Eldorado described, but you are working backwards with the abrasives as well. The AIO's I've used are LESS abrasive than a finishing polish since they were never designed with a focus on doing any real correction of the paint. Your process would take you to a more aggressive product rather than less. Not only that, but PF2500 is a medium grade polish whereas 3500 or 3800 are the finishing polishes for Menzerna.

Go with Eldorado's advice. Use a real polish to do the correction and leave the AIO out completely.

[Nix]

as others have said skip the AIO step..stick with polishing then proper IPA wipedown to remove all the oils left behind from polishing step to ensure you get proper bonding of ceramic coating..AIO are for light correction and some protection..

[ralphsmithiii]

Hmmm...Ok I must of misunderstood the products. So, the Mezurna PF2500 is an AIO that is designed to: Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500 is made for the OEM market as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss. It has the cutting ability just a step below Super Intensive. This will remove moderate to mild swirls, water spots, and light scratches. Then Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500 does something amazing – it burnishes the paint to an ultra high gloss, like you’d expect from Nano Polish.

So, if I had very well maintained paint with light swirls, I shouldn't be using this AIO? Originally, I was using Megs 105/205 for heavy compounding then 205 to polish. But the 205 is leaving some light micro marring on this particular vehicle. I switched over to the bottle of SF2500 and it was a night and day difference in both the micro marring and overall polish/gloss. Note: I did not use 105 as this car didn't need it.

Are you guys saying that AIO's are "junk" essentially? I've had great results before but if I'm doing it wrong and/or could have much better results then that's awesome. I just want to make sure I'm understanding what I'm doing with the right products.

TL;DR - If I need light paint correct on a hard clear (2010 ZR1 Corvette), which products should I be using?

[ralphsmithiii]

Or, now that I'm thinking about it, the finishing polish is what I may be not understanding correctly. SF2500 takes out 2500 grit marks and the Blackfire SRC Finishing polish I have takes out 3000 (I believe). 3000 is finer than 2500, correct? I assumed that if I wanted that "Extra" finish to clean up any left over swirls or anything light, than the SRC finishing polish would do so. But, from what you guys are saying that's not correct?

[Eldorado2k]

Are you guys saying that AIO's are "junk" essentially?

No ones saying AIO’s are junk, but there’s a percentage of their final result that’s filling in blemishes and making it look as good as it does upon completion. That’s the natural side effect of its built in wax component.

[ralphsmithiii]

Ok gotcha. What would you recommend if I wanted to perform a light polish and to end with a ceramic coating?

[mk9750]

Let's see if this is any help -

On my wife's car, that I do not plan to coat, and on friend's cars that I do not intend to coat, I think an All-In-One is a great product for vehicles that require minimal correction. However, I'd never add a coating on top of it. It is intended to be the last product used (unless you "top it off" with additional sealant).

On my car to be coated, or for a friend who wants to pay for a coating, I would use a more standard polish (or compound and polish), then do some type of panel wipe to remove any oils or residue the polish leaves, and then apply the coating.

Using a product whose ultimate goal is leaving protection behind, and then needing to remove it in order to coat, is working backwards.

Good luck on your project.

[Desertnate]

I think we might have a vocabulary problem that is confusing things.

An AIO is also known as a cleaner wax. Examples of AIO's are HD Speed, McKee's 37 360, or Menzerna 3-in-one. These products have a mild polish mixed in with a sealant or wax and allow you to polish and protect the car in one step, hence the designator of "all in one". The abrasives in these products vary by aggressiveness, but all are on the mild side. Also the wax/selants in them also vary in durability. If you are going to apply a coating, you do NOT want to use one of these types of products because of the wax/sealant they leave behind.

If you're talking about Menzerna 2500, that isn't an AIO, it's a medium grade or swirl remover polish. Some people may refer to it as a one-step polish because you may be able to use it to correct and produce an LSP ready shine in one step on certain paints. One-step doesn't equal AIO. Using 2500 to do the correction, and then following up with a finishing polish like 3500, 3800, or SRC Finishing Polish would be very normal.

With that out of the way, I think you're asking if you need to do a wipe down between your medium grade polish and finishing polish. My answer would be, it depends. Technically, you don't. The important wipe down is at the end of all the polishing and before you apply the coating in order to remove all the oils from the polishes. However, when first working on the car, it might be a good idea on a couple spots just to make sure you're getting the desired level of correction from the 2500 without all the polishing oils obscuring your view of the actual paint condition.

[ralphsmithiii]

Thanks Desertnate! You are correct, I had my vocab wrong. I was calling SF2500 an AIO but it's a one-step polish (which I assumed to be an All-In-One). So based on at least what you're saying, then I'm good to go with the SF2500 (not an AIO) followed by a finishing polish. I want to try the 3800 but it appears it doesn't come in a smaller bottle option although from what I've read on this forum, most people say you couldn't' tell the difference between 3500 and 3800 and 3500 comes in a smaller option. I'm also considering the 3D HD+ finishing polish as it seems to have great reviews. But, I own the SRC finishing polish I bought a few years ago.

[Desertnate]

Thanks Desertnate! You are correct, I had my vocab wrong. I was calling SF2500 an AIO but it's a one-step polish (which I assumed to be an All-In-One). So based on at least what you're saying, then I'm good to go with the SF2500 (not an AIO) followed by a finishing polish. I want to try the 3800 but it appears it doesn't come in a smaller bottle option although from what I've read on this forum, most people say you couldn't' tell the difference between 3500 and 3800 and 3500 comes in a smaller option. I'm also considering the 3D HD+ finishing polish as it seems to have great reviews. But, I own the SRC finishing polish I bought a few years ago.

Glad we figured it out. If you have SRC Finishing Polish already, I believe it is very similar to Menzerna's 3500 or 3800. I've used it to finish out the rock hard black paint on my VW for years. It's easy to use and produces great results. The only draw back is it's a little oily and takes more wipe-down work before applying a coating.

[The Guz]

Sounds like you figured out the differences. I would say to skip 3800 if you are going to use a ceramic coating. It is too oily of a product that takes a few prep wipes to remove. I would look into Optimum Hyper Polish, Sonax Ex 04-06, Gyeon Polish. I personally was not a fan of HD Polish but that would be a good one as well. Less oils to remove with a prep wipe yet leaving good gloss.