CarPro DLux over Perl - is it safe?

[itsgn]

Hi Everyone!

Did anybody try applying CarPro DLux coating over external plastic trim that has been recently (like a week or two ago) dressed with PERL? Is it safe, or will it have trouble bonding?

Obviously I will wash the car thoroughly before trying to apply DLux, but I'm not sure whether I should try to "scrub off" the remains of the existing PERL dressing with something aggressive, like IPA, or could apply DLux right over PERL, because in the end, they're supposedly similar products and from the same manufacturer.

Thanks for your advice.

[MarkD51]

I will have to say a big definite no!

DLX is very similar to the CQuartz Paint Coatings in that you will need a clean slate to apply so to speak. Thus no remnants of any other products can remain.

I would caution on using very aggressive methods to now clean, as you may come along and damage your trim with strong IPA, or other very aggressive products. If this helps you for me to say this, Carpro PERL is not that "durable" of a product, meaning you won't need an angle grinder to get it off.

I would do a few mild scrubs with safe APCs, Car Shampoo and soft brushes if the Trim is Textured. Do a final wipe with Carpro Eraser, and first test the DLX in a small area to assure yourself that you are good to go.

[MarkD51]

When I have used DLX, which has been a few times, I had no issues with bonding with just doing normal but meticulous prep on any trim pieces or wheels to be coated.

About the only difficulties I experienced with DLX, is that it can quickly get grabby, and that I often chose to never come behind with any form of towel to wipe it to level-smooth, nothing.

For things like wheels, I would take a small 4"x4" piece of the Microfiber Sheet, wrap it around my finger if need be, to access all the little intricate nooks and crannies on a wheel first, then finish up on the outer faces just simply folding the MF Sheet into quarters, apply, and then don't touch for a least a good hour.

There may be another small advantage to my technique, is that a thicker build coat is applied and then offers better protection.

As for any trim that borders paint, you surely want to get as complete best coverage as you can, not missing any little areas of the trim pieces, and of course without overrun.

So with that being said, I'd advise to carefully mask all trim pieces to be treated prior to application. And again, don't touch the tape for a good hour or so.

PERL, or probably any other good dressing of choice could probably be used over DLX to enhance the look as time passes, without any detriment to DLX because it is very durable.

Since my Truck was CQuartz UK'd, I commonly grab the Bottle of Carpro Reload when required, do paint, and also do any trim that was treated with DLX with no ill effects.

[itsgn]

I would caution on using very aggressive methods to now clean, as you may come along and damage your trim with strong IPA, or other very aggressive products.
That was the exact reason why I asked. And also because even if it wouldn't damage the trim, it would most likely make it a lot paler in appearance - which I think would not be desirable, because DLux doesn't seem to give a darkening and mattening effect as intense, as PERL does.


I would do a few mild scrubs with safe APCs, Car Shampoo and soft brushes if the Trim is Textured. Do a final wipe with Carpro Eraser, and first test the DLX in a small area to assure yourself that you are good to go.
Thanks, I will do that.

[itsgn]

For things like wheels, I would take a small 4"x4" piece of the Microfiber Sheet, wrap it around my finger if need be, to access all the little intricate nooks and crannies on a wheel first, then finish up on the outer faces just simply folding the MF Sheet into quarters, apply, and then don't touch for a least a good hour.
For wheels (as in rims) I use regular CQuartz, and plan to apply DLux specifically onto plastic trims (and possibly rubber door/window seals) only.


So with that being said, I'd advise to carefully mask all trim pieces to be treated prior to application. And again, don't touch the tape for a good hour or so.
Will definitely do so.


Since my Truck was CQuartz UK'd, I commonly grab the Bottle of Carpro Reload when required, do paint, and also do any trim that was treated with DLX with no ill effects.
Well, that's good to know. I usually meticulously avoid plastic trim with Reload, because in my experience and used on its own, Reload tends to make plastic trim very, very shiny, which is not exactly what you want on most, originally usually matte black plastic surfaces.

Thanks for the advice.

[The Guz]

If for some reason you need to restore the trim, solution finish works very well for that. It also plays well with being topped with a trim coating. If you choose this route, be sure to wipe the trim down with something like Eraser after letting solution finish sit for a few hours after the initial wipe off.

[custmsprty]

I have been using Wg Exterior Trim Sealant on my Rogue with great results and excellent longevity. A few months ago it needed re-application and as I had Perl sitting around and never used it I thought I'd give it a try. A major failure. First time it rained it streaked all over the place and barely lasted a few weeks. I got 3+ months from WETS during our rainy season and 5-6 months during our non rainy winter season. Weeks with Perl and it only rained once.

[itsgn]

If for some reason you need to restore the trim, solution finish works very well for that.
Is that a product that contains actual black dye? Or just a dressing like PERL?

I tried to look up the original manufacturer / product sheet for this product, but didn't find anything.

[MarkD51]

I think you will find that DLX does have quite a profound darkening and rejuvenating effect all on its own.

Many moons ago, I posted some results of what DLX did to the Windshield Wiper Cowl on my 1997 Chevy Tahoe.

Due to its finned construction it was always pretty much impossible to care for and treat with anything, and at about 17 years of age, time, and the SW Desert had taken its toll on it.

It is a 3 piece affair, I carefully removed it, Did numerous spray downs with APC, scrubbed with a soft bristle brush, rinsed, dried, and then now how to figure out how to apply DLX to it?

What I had to do, was position these pieces on a work area, I used a 1/2" wide Artist's Brush, started at one end, and began dribbling DLX onto the parts, then spread with the brush. In effect I "painted" the Cowl with DLX, and was careful not to "upset" the application by further brushing after initially applying. (Yes, I used quite an excess of product with this method, there was no other way that I could see)

One hour sitting in the sun to cure, and the application was then bone dry.

My efforts paid off, the differences in appearance were like night and day, the Cowl looked brand spanking new, and literally glowed.

[MarkD51]

It was GaryG, who turned me/us onto this great product right here with a review he once did. Once I tried it, I was sold!

[Rsurfer]

Is that a product that contains actual black dye? Or just a dressing like PERL?

I tried to look up the original manufacturer / product sheet for this product, but didn't find anything.

Solution Finish is a black dye and you must wear gloves or risk having black fingers for a couple of months.

[Eldorado2k]

Solution Finish is a black dye and you must wear gloves or risk having black fingers for a couple of months.

It comes right off. You just have to take a shower. Lol.