How to get wax and sealant out of foam pads?

[kesmit]

I hear that a lot of people use their DA to apply waxes and sealants. I've done it a couple of times in the past, but what I hate about it is cleaning the pads afterward. It seems like you can never get it all out even using a dedicated polishing pad cleaner. Because of this, I typically just use the cheap foam applicators to apply wax/sealant by hand and throw them away after one use. I'd like to give the DA application a try again, but I'd like some suggestions on pad cleaning if you have them.

[ChrisT]

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/108132-cleaning-polishing-pads-stop-damaging-your-most-expensive-investment-mckees-37-polishing-pad-cleaner-review.html

[Mike Phillips]

I have lots of answers to this question....

It comes down to the words,


water insoluble


Waxes and sealants are NOT water soluble thus they are DIFFICULT to remove even with soap and water.


:)

[Bruno Soares]

I just put the pad in a ziplock bag and save it to use with that same sealant again. Impossible to remove Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant from the pad so I just don’t try to clean it anymore.

[ski2]

I hear that a lot of people use their DA to apply waxes and sealants. I've done it a couple of times in the past, but what I hate about it is cleaning the pads afterward. It seems like you can never get it all out even using a dedicated polishing pad cleaner. Because of this, I typically just use the cheap foam applicators to apply wax/sealant by hand and throw them away after one use. I'd like to give the DA application a try again, but I'd like some suggestions on pad cleaning if you have them.

Difficult job to get wax and sealant out of pads. I first soak them in a strong DAWN solution for a few hours or overnight--then agitate with the thumb from the center out--then rinse well under running warm water while agitating again with the thumbs from center out--then spray with Awsome Orange Degreaser (from the $ Store) and repeat the agitation/rinsing procedure. I successfully remove FK1000p from foam pads using this routine.

[Opti]

Use a strong APC cleaner on them...OPT power clean at 1:1 ratio or Britemax Grimeout at 1:3 ratio should do it.

[kesmit]

I just put the pad in a ziplock bag and save it to use with that same sealant again. Impossible to remove Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant from the pad so I just don’t try to clean it anymore.

I did do this a couple of times. I forget why I gave up on the idea though. I like to try out different waxes and sealants, so it may have just been that I didn't want that many used pads in bags waiting for the next round of that wax/sealant.

[kesmit]

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/108132-cleaning-polishing-pads-stop-damaging-your-most-expensive-investment-mckees-37-polishing-pad-cleaner-review.html

This is fine for cleaning polish out, but it doesn't work with wax/sealant as well.

[fightnews]

There is not a cleaner out there strong enough to get blackfire black ice wax off a pad. Nice wax though. Ive tried a lot of polishing pad cleaners and the one a I think works noticeably better then the rest is the pinnacle pad cleaner i currently have a gallon.

[TTQ B4U]

I hear that a lot of people use their DA to apply waxes and sealants. I've done it a couple of times in the past, but what I hate about it is cleaning the pads afterward. It seems like you can never get it all out even using a dedicated polishing pad cleaner. Because of this, I typically just use the cheap foam applicators to apply wax/sealant by hand and throw them away after one use. I'd like to give the DA application a try again, but I'd like some suggestions on pad cleaning if you have them.

Don't have much of an issue with 3D Towel clean. I soak them in a solution of very warm water and 3D and hand wash / scrub them. Spin dry them in a drain/spin cycle via our washer and then tumble dry them on delicate. Have been doing this for years with my pads and have no ill affects. Cleans them up very nicely. Before each use, just spin them up on the buffer to remove any trace dust from the residual product that can linger.

That said I don't apply any naba waxes with a DA. In fact lately I'm hardly using them as coatings are the route I go most often.

[swanicyouth]

Mike is dead on right here - there is no water soluble product that can get most waxes / sealants outta pads 100%. I've used mineral spirits followed by IPA - which works 100% - but isn't great for the life of the pad, as it can soften the glue holding the Velcro.

Solution for me is just apply using hand pads (no Velcro) and clean those sparingly with IPA or mineral spirits as needed - as I'm the kinda guy who can put away a pad unless it 100% clean & wax free. No way am I saving waxed up pads in baggies.

[WillSports3]

My solution is just to use only those pads for applying wax or sealant from now on. Have dedicated no cut pads that I don't use for any paint corrections.

[ducksfan]

Mike is dead on right here - there is no water soluble product that can get most waxes / sealants outta pads 100%. I've used mineral spirits followed by IPA - which works 100% - but isn't great for the life of the pad, as it can soften the glue holding the Velcro.

Solution for me is just apply using hand pads (no Velcro) and clean those sparingly with IPA or mineral spirits as needed - as I'm the kinda guy who can put away a pad unless it 100% clean & wax free. No way am I saving waxed up pads in baggies.

On a previous pad cleaning thread, a guy was trying to make a point in a post. He told another poster to go wash a panel of his car with Dawn and then check the beading. Next, he said to do a IPA wipe down of the panel and see how the beading returned. He then made some kind of a statement about this showing the film that was remaining in his pad and there being no way to prevent that if you used Dawn to clean your pads. I replied that maybe one could just IPA rinse their pads and problem solved.

I checked back a couple times and never saw where anyone came up with anything to refute my logic. So, where I'm at now is wash with whatever gets the gunk out ( Dawn, Super Degreaser is what I know works best now) and then rinse with IPA. I may try rinsing with a couple of pad cleaners (I already have them) and maybe some 3D towel Clean. to see if that works better.

Have you seen any adverse affects from using an IPA rinse? Do the pads seem stiffer?

[mwoywod]

You'll never be able to get 100% of the wax or sealant out of your pads but out of all the pad cleaning methods I've tried. 3D Towel Kleen diluted 4:1 works great for removing AIO's like HD Speed from pads and for dedicated sealant applicators and pads I use Optimum Power Clean undiluted which can actually start to break down FK1000p and Powerlock.

After doing my best to remove as much of the waxes and sealants from my polishing pads and applicators I wrap them in a clean dry microfiber and squeeze the pads. Using this process, you'll be able to transfer 70-80% of the remaining product onto the microfiber towel.

Even though it's likely the best approach, I personally am not a fan of leaving sealants in pads and putting them in a ziplock bag for reuse. But cleaning them is such a PIA that it certainly makes the most sense.

[ducksfan]

That's along the general direction I'm headed.

I'm thinking I'll go with the two step I'm using (1 - Quick, High gunk remover, and cheap 2 - The best rinse I can come up with).

I'm also thinking of trying McKee's APC and 303 cleaner. Both have claims to very low residue. Actually the reference I have for the 303 is a poster from years back. He had a carper cleaning background and recommended 303 cleaner (Not the protectant) to guys who were cleaning carpet with APC. He said the cleaners 303 used were superior at not leaving residue.

Of course, this can then head down the path of carpet cleaners. I have a connection to a company that sells commercial carpet cleaning chems. These chem companies specialize in professional quality cleaners that don't leave residues.

Lots of stuff to try.