Question on the finer points of polishing paint

[fightnews]

When polishing a given section of paint on a car. Let's say you're using menzerna 3500 but really any finishing polish. When you are done with your 6 passes should the polish have basically disappeared or should there be a solid amount left? Not to much or excessive but a layer that you clearly still see?

[Paul A.]

For me it differs a little bit with the polish brand, pad, paint etc. but generally I work Menzerna 3500 until it becomes a thin film on the paint, almost invisible. I want to know I have broken down the abrasives to their finest state for the finest finish. I envision my final passes as buffing with a talcum powder like particle and I lighten up my machine/pad pressure. It sometimes appears differently depending on the paint color.

With Menzerna finish polishes I get what looks like the rainbow effect, again depending on the paint color...a very thin layer of what remains as oils, carriers, spent product and a very thin amount of spent paint. I also pay attention to using the right amount of polish on the pad to begin with and switching out to clean pads frequently.

That's my favorite part!

[fightnews]

For me it differs a little bit with the polish brand, pad, paint etc. but generally I work Menzerna 3500 until it becomes a thin film on the paint, almost invisible. I want to know I have broken down the abrasives to their finest state for the finest finish. I envision my final passes as buffing with a talcum powder like particles and I lighten up my machine/pad pressure. It sometimes appears differently depending on the paint color.

With Menzerna finish polishes I get what looks like the rainbow effect, again depending on the paint color...a very thin layer of what remains as oils, carriers, spent product and a very thin amount of spent paint. I also pay attention to using the right amount of polish on the pad to begin with and switching out to clean pads frequently.

That's my favorite part!

Yeah see i just figured out a new technique. After I butter the pad I'm taking a microfiber to it to get all the excess of. Then I'm applying an amount I can better control. It's working good because I feel like after buttering there ends up being way to much product on that first section.

Cleaning off the excess with a microfiber is making it a lot better on that first section. It's also pushing the product deep into the pad which I think is helping a lot

[Paul A.]

There ya go! Finding a technique that works for you is the key. I've played around with so many different products to zero in on what works best for me is kinda fun to explore.

Sounds like you've found a good pad priming technique.

[fightnews]

There ya go! Finding a technique that works for you is the key. I've played around with so many different products to zero in on what works best for me is kinda fun to explore.

Sounds like you've found a good pad priming technique. Yeah I feel like it's making a big difference on that first section. First I spray the pad with conditioner, then I butter it with a rubber glove. Then I hold a clean folded microfiber up to it like I was cleaning it on the Fly. I take all the excess off and then I put three drops or whatever of fresh product depending on the pad size.

It's definitely better than when I was just buttering it because I always end up with too much product on the paint on that first section every time I use a new pad. What you know that can be a lot.

[Bruno Soares]

That's why some detailers are against priming the pad. If you watch any of the Esoteric videos you'll see that Todd says no priming is done at Esoteric. He starts with 3 dots and that's it.

[fightnews]

That's why some detailers are against priming the pad. If you watch any of the Esoteric videos you'll see that Todd says no priming is done at Esoteric. He starts with 3 dots and that's it.

What about dry buffing is that not a real issue? I like doing it my new way but I could see how if you were doing a lot of volume of cars it would waste a little product

[Bruno Soares]

What about dry buffing is that not a real issue? I like doing it my new way but I could see how if you were doing a lot of volume of cars it would waste a little product

That's another topic that some believe is a problem, some say it's nothing to worry about. I still prime my pad but every time I do I wonder if that's what I really should be doing or not. I guess if it's microfiber pad priming is a must. Foam is where some people say it's just a waste of product. I wish I could totally agree with just one side but I see valid points from either side. I guess I'd have to have many cars done by me to try and come up with my own conclusions but because I only work on my car and my wife's car I don't have enough experience to speak about it with my own points.

[fightnews]

That's another topic that some believe is a problem, some say it's nothing to worry about. I still prime my pad but every time I do I wonder if that's what I really should be doing or not. I guess if it's microfiber pad priming is a must. Foam is where some people say it's just a waste of product. I wish I could totally agree with just one side but I see valid points from either side. I guess I'd have to have many cars done by me to try and come up with my own conclusions but because I only work on my car and my wife's car I don't have enough experience to speak about it with my own points.

Me too I only do mine really so I don't care if I waste a little product I have to much as it is

[WillSports3]

I prime my pad with a spritz of n 914 and usually just three to four dots of product, depending on what I'm doing. I find it makes clean up easier but then again I tend to use water based products versus any of the more oily ones.

[fly07sti]

That's why some detailers are against priming the pad. If you watch any of the Esoteric videos you'll see that Todd says no priming is done at Esoteric. He starts with 3 dots and that's it.

I essentially do the same as Todd. Put 3-4 dots and work a small spot for about 30 seconds. This primes the pad without over saturating it. Especially true with Menz polishes.

[Paul A.]

I "X" my pad at first and then 3-4 dabs of polish for the next sections. I follow Mike P's idea of "kissing the paint" by touching the pad to the paint within the work area several times. The section then has some X's or dots of polish scattered around and a slight lift of the pad to swing by and add it in while I'm working the section.

[PaulMys]

I "X" my pad at first and then 3-4 dabs of polish for the next sections. I follow Mike P's idea of "kissing the paint" by touching the pad to the paint within the work area several times. The section then has some X's or dots of polish scattered around and a slight lift of the pad to swing by and add it in while I'm working the section.

^^^This^^^ :xyxthumbs:

[Mantilgh]

Not that I have much experience, but I too feel that I get too much product on the pad when buttering to prime them.

For a while now I've been using a swirl technique. I set my polisher pad up on my work platform and spin the pad with one hand and apply a very thin line of polish starting from just off the center then move towards the outside edge. I do it as lightly as I can trying not to force it into the pad and leave the center 1"-1 1/2" bare.

For my first application of a product to the pad I'll keep the gap between the lines of the swirl reasonably tight, like 3/16" gap. Then I'll lightly set it on the paint, lift and give the pad a little spin a tap back down, and maybe another time or two in the same spot. Then lowest speed to spread it out over the working section, then I get to work with my slow passes.

When I add more product for the next pass, after cleaning the pad with a towel, I make the gap between my swirl lines closer to a 1/2" while still keeping a fairly thin line of product.

I never add any directly to the center 1"-1 1/2" because the they tend to migrate there on their own, and because early on I would have problems with over saturation and did collapse the center of a few flat pads.


Here again, not too much experience, but I don't think there's going to be much of an issue of dry buffing even with the no prime/dot method. I would think the pad face would quickly be covered with a small amount of product once the machine is turned on and the mild marring that could possibly be produced would be quickly removed.

I personally do not like the dot method, nor taking the dotted pad pressing all over the working area. To me it wastes some product by forcing it into the pad just giving you saturated dot spots on the pad, and I'm not sure I get the point kissing the pad all over before turning it on. There's going to be enough product on the pad to cover the working area on the low speed/fast arm movement first spreading pass. Maybe this is required with the dot method because of the product is concentrated to such a small area of the pad.

The KISS technique does make sense to me if you are applying a LSP to a large area where you would like to pick up a little extra product as you go.

When comparing used pads after using both methods, I like how uniform the dispersal of product is across the face of the pad with my swirl meth as opposed to the still noticeable saturated dots with the dot method.

Does it really make a difference? Probably not, but it's what works and what makes sense to me.

[PaulMys]

Not that I have much experience, but I too feel that I get too much product on the pad when buttering to prime them.

For a while now I've been using a swirl technique. I set my polisher pad up on my work platform and spin the pad with one hand and apply a very thin line of polish starting from just off the center then move towards the outside edge. I do it as lightly as I can trying not to force it into the pad and leave the center 1"-1 1/2" bare.

For my first application of a product to the pad I'll keep the gap between the lines of the swirl reasonably tight, like 3/16" gap. Then I'll lightly set it on the paint, lift and give the pad a little spin a tap back down, and maybe another time or two in the same spot. Then lowest speed to spread it out over the working section, then I get to work with my slow passes.

When I add more product for the next pass, after cleaning the pad with a towel, I make the gap between my swirl lines closer to a 1/2" while still keeping a fairly thin line of product.

I never add any directly to the center 1"-1 1/2" because the they tend to migrate there on their own, and because early on I would have problems with over saturation and did collapse the center of a few flat pads.


Here again, not too much experience, but I don't think there's going to be much of an issue of dry buffing even with the no prime/dot method. I would think the pad face would quickly be covered with a small amount of product once the machine is turned on and the mild marring that could possibly be produced would be quickly removed.

I personally do not like the dot method, nor taking the dotted pad pressing all over the working area. To me it wastes some product by forcing it into the pad just giving you saturated dot spots on the pad, and I'm not sure I get the point kissing the pad all over before turning it on. There's going to be enough product on the pad to cover the working area on the low speed/fast arm movement first spreading pass. Maybe this is required with the dot method because of the product is concentrated to such a small area of the pad.

The KISS technique does make sense to me if you are applying a LSP to a large area where you would like to pick up a little extra product as you go.

When comparing used pads after using both methods, I like how uniform the dispersal of product is across the face of the pad with my swirl meth as opposed to the still noticeable saturated dots with the dot method.

Does it really make a difference? Probably not, but it's what works and what makes sense to me.

Sounds like a good method. But the most important thing is that it works for YOU.

That's pretty much the goal, and yet another method for someone to try.

That's why AGO is great IMO.