Step between claying and sealant

[lndrvrus]

Okay, it's been awhile since I've been on here and I did a search to no avail. Also have a call in the AG guys but I see there are several experienced folks on tonight, so here it goes.

I'm doing my annual complete detail jobs on the cars while on vacation and I'm at a step that I never considered before. My products are all DP (clay, lube, 4n1, soap, sealant, max wax, interior, wheel glaze, etc.) plus PB SSR1 and trim restorer. The first car is washed and clayed and my next step is to usually hit it with PB SSR1 but it's really not in need of it from what I can see. The car is just barely over a year old. So I'm thinking of applying the DP Surface Shield next but I'm afraid of trapping any residue left from the claying when I apply the SS.

What do you guys think? Should I wash the car again before applying the SS or should I do my normal job (as I do on the other 2 cars) and hit it with the SSR1, then SS, then a couple of coats of max wax? Thanks for the input.

[Tex Star Detail]

Wash
Clay
Polish
Seal
Wax

Do you have a PC, or buffer of some sort?
If the paint is in great condition, I would still run a polish over it. Even a paint cleaner. Then I would seal.
Not sure I would go from clay to a sealer or wax. Did the clay leave any trace amounts of surface marring?

When in doubt, polish it out......

-Chris

[ScottB]

your missing the polishing (or paint cleaning) step.

[Fly bye]

So I'm thinking of applying the DP Surface Shield next but I'm afraid of trapping any residue left from the claying when I apply the SS.
If you use a proper technique to clay the finish, there will be no residue left. I sometimes use soapy water out of a bucket with a wash mit to clay the finish after thoroughly washing it. In this scenario, I squeeze soapy water from the mit/sponge to provide lubrication to the area being clayed, then wipe the finish with the soapy wash mit.

As already mentioned, a light polish, or paint cleaner is recommended. If your not doing scratch/swirl removal, a light polish can be accomplished very quickly. It's only when your removing defects is when polishing/compounding takes a lot of time.

[lndrvrus]

I knew I could count on you guys. Thanks for the help.

There is no marring to the paint or finish. The residue is left over lube that isn't completely removed after the claying. You guys that live in high humidity areas know what I mean after you try to wipe down the car when it's humid out.

I have and use a PC for the polish and sealant and then hit it with max wax by hand.

[Andy Wayan]

yup yup..

my steps are:

1) wash
2) clay
3) cleaners if necessary
4) polish with 7424 if necessary ( for swirls removal )
5) sealant
6) wax
7) detail spray

too much?

[AjNavo61490]

sounds good to me

[supercharged]

If surface appears clean, just wipe down with 50/50 alcohol/water mix.
If you see any smears - rewash.

[sriquixotic]

what paint cleaners do you guys recommend? I'm trying to find one without a sealant in it.

[Jimmie]

^^Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion or Poorboys Pro Polish^^

[lndrvrus]

I ended up washing the 2nd car after the claying process due to the amount of lube residue left on it. After that, I hit it with a PB SSR2.5 followed by SSR1. Now it's ready for a coat of the DP Premium Sealant and finally 2 coats of Max Wax. I usually do one process per day so that I get a full days worth of cure on each product.

Also, I want to give thanks to the folks posted reviews on the Schmitt. My current mitt was in need of replacement (lambswool) and I can't wait to try the Schmitt. I'll add to the comments after try it out on the Rover.