tampatopless
06-20-2017, 03:48 PM
Man, I made a lot of mistakes getting to this point. But Mike's videos really helped out.
I started out with a badly swirled Torch Red Mustang - a color that shows everything. I bought compound and polish, but had no clue what I was doing. Did the whole car with compound and nothing happened. Nothing corrected.
After watching Mike's videos, I went from two (seriously) white pads at a 4 to seven or eight orange ones. I ditched the compound and polish in favor of an AIO and really worked the product in small sections at 5 to 5.5 on a Porter.
Except for the trunk lid, the car looks brand new. The trunk lid was the first section with the AIO and I didn't work it enough. (For you newbies, multiple, multiples passes. Then buff off before you move to another section and see what you have. The reason Mike Phillips does a buff and inspects his work after doing a section is not to show you what he has done. It's to find out if what he has done has corrected the paint. If not, you do it over. I don't think you can hurt the clearcoat with an AIO, an orange pad and a Porter.)
The first pix doesn't do justice to how badly swirled the paint was. The second pix is that same hood after correction. The last pix is the car with paint corrected. And I haven't even put a true LSP on it. It turns out the AIO is all I needed, but I'm planning on adding sealant by machine next time I wash it.
Sorry about the quality of the pix. Just getting the hang of this.
I also have learned that you probably only need to do an AIO and sealant a couple of times of year to protect the paint. i plan on giving it the bling with a Souveragn spray wax after each swirl-free wash. This will be my process, which I will repeat as Mike Phillips suggests. Find a process that works and repeat it each time.
I started out with a badly swirled Torch Red Mustang - a color that shows everything. I bought compound and polish, but had no clue what I was doing. Did the whole car with compound and nothing happened. Nothing corrected.
After watching Mike's videos, I went from two (seriously) white pads at a 4 to seven or eight orange ones. I ditched the compound and polish in favor of an AIO and really worked the product in small sections at 5 to 5.5 on a Porter.
Except for the trunk lid, the car looks brand new. The trunk lid was the first section with the AIO and I didn't work it enough. (For you newbies, multiple, multiples passes. Then buff off before you move to another section and see what you have. The reason Mike Phillips does a buff and inspects his work after doing a section is not to show you what he has done. It's to find out if what he has done has corrected the paint. If not, you do it over. I don't think you can hurt the clearcoat with an AIO, an orange pad and a Porter.)
The first pix doesn't do justice to how badly swirled the paint was. The second pix is that same hood after correction. The last pix is the car with paint corrected. And I haven't even put a true LSP on it. It turns out the AIO is all I needed, but I'm planning on adding sealant by machine next time I wash it.
Sorry about the quality of the pix. Just getting the hang of this.
I also have learned that you probably only need to do an AIO and sealant a couple of times of year to protect the paint. i plan on giving it the bling with a Souveragn spray wax after each swirl-free wash. This will be my process, which I will repeat as Mike Phillips suggests. Find a process that works and repeat it each time.