SIP and NANO-newb questions

[lethalxls1]

My order of Menz SIP and Nano came in today and I am excited about trying it out but before I got to it I thought I would ask the pros a few questions-better safe then sorry.
My car is black Chevy Z/28 and does not have the OEM paint job but it is a 2 stage. I will be using the PC and a orange LC pad when applying the SIP. What would the sign be(what will the polish look like) that tells me that the polish is broken down fully?On a 2x2ft. area any time estimate on that? My fear is to under or even worse overwork the polish. I have a white and a gray ccs LC pads- which of those two would you use for the Nano polish? I appreciate your help. :cheers:

I have used XMT medium and ultra fine SR in the past with good results but this will be my first time using the Menzema products-just a bit cautious due to the fact of reading it was originally intended for Mercedes super hard clear coats.

[The Skillmaster]

While I have not used SIP myself (though I hope to soon), there is not a whole lot of damage you can do with a PC and an orange pad with that stuff. I understand it takes quite a few passes to get it to break down with a PC so you should have plenty of slack. Others who have used it can get more specific. I would use a white pad with the Nano polish but there is nothing wrong with the gray pad other than that it might take longer to break down the polish. In any case, I wouldn't worry about any of it. Just don't use gobs of the stuff since you don't need to and because it's expensive. Good luck.

[Sevenrd]

I work menz polishes until they basically disappear into the paint...sort of turn into a light film.

[mingraygt]

I have not tried the SIP yet! But the Nano I use the Green CCS pad. It works real good.

[TOGWT]

Diminishing abrasives require friction to activate them; they should not finish up dry (dusting) but will always have a hazy film to them. Wet polishes eliminate the friction heat caused by buffing; heat, which causes gloss loss.

Polish to a haze- when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal.

It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring (this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it)

When the polish is broken down properly you should have a clear surface, the polish will become clear but still barely visible on the pant surface. If it is oily ( Menzerna uses both oil and wax for paint surface lubrication) then either too much polish was used or the diminishing abrasives were not sufficiently broken down, if you don’t allow the polish to haze as it diminishes the abrasives, stopping to soon, is like rubbing sand paper across the paint

These polishes were designed to work with high speed rotary polisher’s, utilizing friction to break-down the diminishing abrasives, while in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line.

Super Intensive Polish (PO83Q) SIP will remove 2000 grit, cut 3.5 – gloss 3.0, 1300 RPM - primed Orange (mid range, high densityfoam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action) LC CCS foam pads 1200 RPM

[lethalxls1]

^ That helps me out alot. Thank you!

[slo-ryd]

Make sure the panels are cool to the touch and all should go well for you.

[Z06-Goose]

After ~3min on a 2x2' area, the polish will start to become tt will be translucent. It does have a long working time. Menzerna it's a treat to work with. You should be fine. Work it at about 1" per second initially overlap passes, side to side, up and down zig-zag motions. you'll be happy with the results...

[lethalxls1]

Thanks!