New guy troubles, looking for a little help with compunding/polishing.

[Tonka337]

I'm trying my first attempt at paint correction. I figured I would practice on my 99' 4Runner before attempting this on my newer vehicles to get a little experience first.

Products used:
1. Custom shop da (similar to the Porter Cable 7424xp). Speed of 5 out of 6. Max RPM on setting six is 6500rpm.
2. Menzerna compound/polish. FG400, SF3500, and Power lock
3. Pads, Lake Contry 6' foam pads
(a) Yellow pad for the 400 (also used a meguires red pad for oxidation).
(b) Orange pad for the 3500
(c) Blue pad for the Power Lock
All pads were new and primed with polish before starting out.
Technique. cross hatch going over 3-4 times, using some pressure but not too much.


This 4Runner has been sitting outside for the last two years at least at a friends shop so needless to say the paint was pretty rough and oxidized.

I cleaned the vehicle really well (did not clay it). I started with the Menzerna FG400 using the Lake Country yellow pad (also used a mequires red pad for the oxidation). This helped tremendously. It took out most of the scratches and left a nice gloss.

Then I proceeded with the SF3500. Here is where the issue started. After using the 3500 I began to notice that the gloss was nice but the depth or mirror effect was very diminished. I switched to a lake country 5" black pad thinking that maybe the orange pad was too rough for the SF3500. I also noticed that when wiping with a micro fiber cloth, the micro fiber cloth did not wipe easy like it should after polishing or waxing. I expected an easy wipe with little or no drag on the cloth when wiping off polish.

Against my better judgement, I went on to the next step and finished part of the vehicle with the menzerna power lock using the blue pad thinking it would clear up the "hazing"(?) or cloudiness I experienced with the 3500. Overall the 4Runner has a great shine but, still have lost the reflection depth. I'm a newbie to this so, please forgive me because I do not know the correct terms used in compounding and polishing. Sorry for the long read but, was just trying to capture as much detail as much as possible in this post in hopes that one of you might be willing to assist me in correcting my problem. I know this clear coat is trying to tell me something but, I just can't figured out what it is. I hope that I posted in the correct forum and asked the "right" questions? I'm really looking forward to learning about how to do this correctly. Thanks for taking the time to read this. If I missed something or didn't explain properly, please let me know.

I attached a couple of photos after completing one side of the vehicle with all three steps (400, 3500, and power lock). Not sure if you can see the cloudiness of the clear coat in the photos.

[Buster906]

Welcome to the forum. Perhaps an iron decon may help. You did a good job. I see what you mean by cloudiness and lack of depth.

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[custmsprty]

I think it looks pretty good considering the age of the paint. Post some before pictures. Also, was their any paint transfer to your pads? Did the orange or yellow pads turn white?

[Paul A.]

It may just be a function of 18 year old soft toyota paint however I would try the 3500 with a white or even a black pad if you have any. Claying and using an iron remover helps too. Because you didn't clay may be the reason the mf wipe offs are kinda grabby. Just some thoughts but I agree with cstmsprty...it looks a helluva lot better!

[GSKR]

If its sstage there's a cap on final polishing.Done many of them including camry corolla accords and tundra.Its crappy paint system looks great time to jump on something more desirable.

[Tonka337]

Buster906: Thanks for warm welcome. What exactly is the iron decon you are referring to ?

custmsprty: With the 400 I initially started out with the yellow pad. Not much paint stuck to the pad. But, I watched a video from I think it was the chemical guys, they suggested the meguires red pad for heavy heavy oxidation. So I used that for a while and I did get a little white oxidation on the pad. But, the finish looked geat. When I switched to the 3500, I started out with the orange pad, not much paint residue on the orange pad at all, but the velcro side must have gotten kinda warm cause the velcro was messed up in the center of the pad. That's when I switched to the black pad. Same results with the orange and black pad.

Paul A.: Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try a section with the white pad to see if it helps.

GSKR: I cant wait to start on my F250 which is a 2013, but I just am trying to get it right before I jump on something else. The F250 is a lot newer so I think I'll start with the 3500. But I am very concerned about doing so based on what I experienced on the 4Runner

Thanks to all of you for the advice, very much appreciated! I didn't clay it because it's just a beater. Kind of wished I would have now. I will definitely clay my next project. They make compounding and polishing seem so easy in the videos! lol I really enjoyed doing this one but, man it is very time consuming. I have two days in on this 4Runner.

I wish I could upload a video I took that really shows where I stopped with the 3500 on one of the doors. The difference from the 400 to the 3500 is very clear in the video. I'll post a few before pics, it has definitely come a long way for the better.5738557386573875738857389

I've watched quite a few videos from the "Junkman" (gotta love that guy), chemical guys, and Mike Phillips. I learned a lot from all of them. Any additional threads and or videos you guys can share that will aid me in getting better would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again from South Louisiana!

[sayroger]

Remember all Toyota cars with non Metallic paint don't have clear coat so they won't shine like car with clear coat. I don't know why Toyota dose this to their cars.