Detailing 64 Mustang

[redjewlss]

Hello. I was asked by a friend to detail his 64 Mustang to help bring out the shine. Its an off white that looks like it could have been repainted but not 100% sure. It has some orange peel in spots along with painted over rust. There are no real visable swirls or scratches. I'm looking for some guidance or recommendations. I have a flex da polisher along with a variety of products including McKee's 37 fast compound, fast polish, and jeweling wax. I was wondering if I should start with a stiff pad and the Jeweling wax to see the results or should I pick up some #7 show car glaze and work by hand? I also have backfire products and McKee's 360.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I would think, considering it has some painted over rust, possibly repainted, orange peel (which only wet-sanding will knock down) it sounds like this car isn't a show car and is more of a take-out and drive and have fun kind of a car, the best thing is possibly a cleaner/wax like McKee's 360 along with a light polishing pad, maybe even a finishing pad.

If the painter painted over rust, obviously they either didn't know what they were doing, or didn't care. Given that, you may find the lack of craftsmanship will also extend into some very thin spots...

#7 is good, but very time consuming, especially by hand... I wouldn't consider machining #7 either. It's also equally as tough to get off. It's all I used at one point a very long time ago.

I'd say McKee's 360 would be the way to go, light pressure (not heavy), low speed, and a finishing or light grade polishing pad. Then do the jeweling wax and it will look great.

Good luck, and lets see some pics!!!

[DetailKitty]

I would be careful with the paint over rust spots. Personally I wouldn't use the DA over them.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I would be careful with the paint over rust spots. Personally I wouldn't use the DA over them.

True, Good point Monica!

I've used a DA on a few cars that had some rust spots. It's not common practice for a lot of reasons... One, it's not the type of car I like take in, and 2ndly I take really good care of my pads and tools. Rust will destroy a pad and cause contamination.

However what I have done was identified the areas of rust, then used high-grade 3M Automotive Painters Tape and taped off those areas to create a DMZ.
I knew not to go even go onto or touch the tape.

Again be careful of thin areas... Typically on that car is going to be tops of fenders, wind-shield valance, rear window valance. Be careful of emblems. Old cars were just posts drilled into the sheet metal vs 3M automotive tape used today.

[Bill1234]

Id go through everything like normal, wash and decon everything to see the true condition of paint. Then use number 7 which will bring back some depth to the old paint. I would try and save alot of paint too so maybe go with a polish instead of compound? Definitely seal the paint if there is rust rather than wax.

[redjewlss]

thank you for the tips! As for the rust spots they are painted over and not very rough, however I will definitely try to avoid them with the DA as I do not want to destroy my pads.

I plan on using some gtechniq w6 before I start the polishing. my thoughts are to give it a nice foam bath with some McKee's 37 xtreme foam then the w6. after its nice and dry start with the 360 to see how that works, if it works well ill use it on the whole car then move to the jeweling wax. if time permits I also have McKee's paint coating that I may apply.

I will post some before and after shots.

[Mike Phillips]

Hello. I was asked by a friend to detail his 64 Mustang to help bring out the shine. Its an off white that looks like it could have been repainted but not 100% sure.



Do you know if this is a single stage paint like lacquer or enamel?

Or

Has it been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat paint system?


I explain how to test white paint for single stage or basecoat/clearcoat in the below article. It's a little trickier to test for white single stage paint so read the text don't just look at the pictures.


How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/34829-how-test-single-stage-clear-coat-paint.html)






It has some orange peel in spots along with painted over rust.



You can't fix either of this for a project like this, I explain what you can and should do here,

"Taking your car's paint to it's maximum potential" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/27081-taking-your-car-s-paint-s-maximum-potential.html)







There are no real visible swirls or scratches.



That's a good thing for you and the owner. If this is single stage paint, then (note the next word), GENERALLY SPEAKING - single stage white paint is the hardest paint there is to work on because the pigment used to make white paint white is titanium dioxide powder and this pigment in and of itself is very hard and when mixed into the resin, (resin is the gooey stuff you would think of as the paint before it dries), it makes the resin hard.

I talk briefly about that in this article I wrote all the way back in 1997


The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html)




I'm looking for some guidance or recommendations. I have a flex da polisher along with a variety of products including


McKee's 37 fast compound
fast polish
jeweling wax



I would call that trio the

Show Car Trifecta


McKee's compounds, polishes and their cleaner/waxes all use great abrasive technology. One of the cars we detailed for our TV show we used these three products and the car took "Best Paint" at the show. Check it out here and this was the real deal, Joe Metlow was on my team for this project and he saw first hand not only what good abrasive technology can do in the compounds and polishes but the amazing results you can achieve using a true jeweling wax.


McKee's 37 = Winner BEST PAINT! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/competition-ready-velocity-channel/99381-mckee-s-37-winner-best-paint.html)






I was wondering if I should start with a stiff pad and the Jeweling wax to see the results or should I pick up some #7 show car glaze and work by hand?



The #7 Rub Down is for paint that is antique and or original AND --> this is key - looks dull and chalky as in the surface if visibly oxidized. The idea is to do 3 things,

1: Remove the oxidization without using abrasives (because it's important to the owner to do everything possible to preserve the paint)

2: To gorge the dried out brittle paint with the trade secret polishing oils found in the #7 which acts to revitalize them and bring out the full richness of color. (not much richness of color in white paint but it will make it more vibrant)

3: Condition the paint for any follow-up abrading steps.


It doesn't sound like the paint on this Mustang is a candidate for the #7 Rub Down. If the paint is in fact old single stage paint, then it does sound like the paint is a good candidate for the #7 Rub Down treatement AFTER you've done any abrading steps such as compounding and polishing.

I have not written the article on using #7 on singles stage paint in good shape but I will in the near future as I have a project for this coming up.







I was wondering if I should start with a stiff pad and the Jeweling wax to see the results or should I pick up some #7 show car glaze and work by hand?

I also have backfire products and McKee's 360.[




You're on the right track.

Single stage white paint like stiffer pads versus softer pads, kind of like gel-coat boats don't like hard cutting pads and will actually DULL DOWN if you compound or polish them with soft foam pads. (I cover this in my boat detailing how-to book (http://www.autogeek.net/marine-31-boat-book.html))


Here's what I would try,

With your FLEX orbital polisher, (I'm assuming it's the BEAST aka the FLEX 3401), I would test out either a foam polishing pad or a foam cutting pad, (in that order), with the McKee's 360 first. My guess is this combo will nail it. By "nail it" I mean it will remove the oxidation and restore a glossy finish in one step.

This saves you time, steps, energy and product.

With the right products, single stage white paint is an easy fix. But here's the deal. Like I explain in this article,

The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html)


You can work all day and do multiple steps to white paint and only get marginally better results than what you can achieve using a quality one-step cleaner/wax.

So why do all the work for next to nothing.


I'm not lazy... just practical.

So do some testing and for sure... take some BEFORE SHOTS before you start. I explain why in this article,


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)



Hope that helps and have some fun!


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a similar recent project


The paint is not white but it is single stage. It is the original paint and it was dull, not too oxidiazed.

I skipped the #7 Rub Down and went straight to a one-step cleaner/wax, my trusty dusty FLEX 3401 and foam cutting pads. And I beat that car! By this I mean I LAID INTO THE FLEX 3401 HARD & HEAVY, I mean I was pressing down hard on speed 6 and hammering on this paint.


Detailing a beater! - 1972 Buick Riviera Boattail - Review: Lake Country Force Hybrid Foam Pads (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/109306-detailing-beater-1972-buick-riviera-boattail-review-lake-country-force-hybrid-foam-pads.html)


BEFORE

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3403/1972_Riviera_0021.JPG



Yes... that's called texture

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3403/1972_Riviera_0031.JPG





AFTER

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3403/1972_Riviera_0141.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/3403/1972_Riviera_0151.JPG



Another car slain by the BEAST!


:laughing:

[redjewlss]

thank you for the info Mike! I have read most of your articles on white paint and single stage paints, a lot to take in! I do have the Flex 3401, its my first DA and im glad I didn't cheap out. as for the McKee's trio, I love them, I did my own truck with them and had AMAZING results.

I will be sure to review the articles again prior to starting this project, but will follow the plan of testing the 360 with the polishing pad to see how that works and if the results are not there move to a cutting pad.

here is my truck after the trio, and my first time using the 3401

[Mike Phillips]

here is my truck after the trio, and my first time using the 3401




Good job! Looks Amazing! Especially considering this was your first time with the 3401 and McKee's products.


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachments/auto-detailing-101/57300d1495111124-detailing-64-mustang-truck1jpg



:)

[redjewlss]

Thanks Mike! Do you have any plans to come up to the Philadelphia area for classes or anything?

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike! Do you have any plans to come up to the Philadelphia area for classes or anything?


If we have a host location.


I'm finishing an info thread for what it takes to be a host facility. When I get it done I'll post it here,


Autogeek Roadshow Detailing Classes (https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/autogeek-roadshow-detailing-classes/)



:)

[redjewlss]

Here's a few pictures before

57340

57341

57342

57343

57344



:)

[redjewlss]

57345

57346

57347


j:)

[redjewlss]

Just tested for single srage vs base and clear using black fire polish and a red pad. I did not get any color transfer from the car so it looks to be base/clear. Should I still proceed with the McKee's 360 or should I take another approach?