Novice Detailer: My Detailing plan - feedback appreciated

[Mikeb018]

I'm going to layout my plan for my detail/paint correction on my Audi S3 2017 so if you guys can review it and provide me feedback I'd appreciate it!


I wash my car once a week so it does not have dirt besides pollen and dust from sitting outside


1. I'm going to use ONR for the first time using one bucket with the big red sponge (or should I still stick with 2 bucket method and rinse the big red sponge in another bucket with ONR solution so I can continue using one clear ONR solution bucket)?


2. I'm going to use Iron X after - my only Issue is that I won't have a hose where I'm doing my detail so should I do iron x before I do my ONR wash? Or will I have to apply another ONR wash afterwards to remove the iron x ?


3. Claying will be my next step but since I've Clayed before about a month ago there shouldn't be that much contaminants on the paint. I will be using a diluted solution of ONR for lubrication but I'll probably end up finishing the megs final detailing solution that I have left. This will be followed with an IPA wash as well.


4. I have a griots garage orbital with 5" back plate. I will be using the 5.5" orange foam pad (or should I buy hexlogic ones?) to apply meg ultimate polish to the swirls that I have on my car from poor washing methods early on of owning my car and learning the process. If not, should I buy M205 polish instead? I don't think I will need something more aggressive like a compound. My paint is still new and not defected besides some swirling.


5. I will then seal the car using a 5.5" black foam pad with meg synthetic sealant but I was considering on getting opti seal or Wolfgang sealant if they are better?


That is about it .. let me know what you guys think of my process and what I can do to improve it.

[Buster906]

Two buckets. Wolfgang for the sealant. The Orange pad is good. I would not use Iron X unless you get hose access or go to a car wash. Megs Ultimate Polish is a good choice. You have a solid plan. Go forth and shine on

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[Setec Astronomy]

Better is all in the eye of the beholder.

I almost always use two buckets with rinseless washes, unless the car is very very clean.

My first choice would be not to use Iron X if I couldn't hose rinse the car...my second choice would be to do it after washing, because I wouldn't want to be sticking my hand into an ONR bucket with Iron X mixed in...wear gloves.

Ultimate Polish will be fine as long as it removes your swirls, the orange pad you have will be fine.

Opti-Seal is great and very easy to use, good on all surfaces, no worries about residue. But your "meg synthetic sealant" will also work, of course.

I'd worry less about buying more stuff and worry more about getting your technique down with what you have.

[PaulMys]

Better is all in the eye of the beholder.

I almost always use two buckets with rinseless washes, unless the car is very very clean.

My first choice would be not to use Iron X if I couldn't hose rinse the car...my second choice would be to do it after washing, because I wouldn't want to be sticking my hand into an ONR bucket with Iron X mixed in...wear gloves.

Ultimate Polish will be fine as long as it removes your swirls, the orange pad you have will be fine.

Opti-Seal is great and very easy to use, good on all surfaces, no worries about residue. But your "meg synthetic sealant" will also work, of course.

I'd worry less about buying more stuff and worry more about getting your technique down with what you have.

Agree 100%.

And your last line is something I learned not too long ago. Some very smart guys here on AGO have told me: "It's not rocket science. Find what works for you, and go forward and perfect the way you use it."

[Setec Astronomy]

And your last line is something I learned not too long ago. Some very smart guys here on AGO have told me: "It's not rocket science. Find what works for you, and go forward and perfect the way you use it."

Back in the old days of Autopia, the motto was "process > product".

[dennis hiip]

I think megs synthetic sealant is top shelf sealant.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Do not use Iron-X if you can't rinse the car with a hose. What color is the car?

[Mikeb018]

Thank you guys for all your advice!! It's very much appreciated. Definitely can't wait to run this plan through. Only thing is that I'm still learning when to use different types of pads for my GG 6"

[Mikeb018]

Do not use Iron-X if you can't rinse the car with a hose. What color is the car?

It's navarra blue .. almost like a midnight blue

[Mike Phillips]

And for the record...

I used Iron X without washing the car...


Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/97575-before-after-1961-plymouth-fury-barn-find.html)


Steps 1 & 2 were done at the same time as I worked around the various body panels on the car.


Step 1 - Chemically decontaminate the car
I used a modified technique for Iron X because I wanted to make sure any iron contamination is removed. I sprayed down the body panels with Iron X starting with horizontal panels first and then after they were rinsed clean I moved onto the vertical panels only tackling one side at a time.


Step 2 - Wash car using DP Waterless Auto Wash
For this I used a super heavy saturation with LOTS of clean microfiber towels to liquefy the Iron X and wipe it plus any and all dirt off the body panels.


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_042.jpg


This is me saturating the roof with a very wet coat of DP Waterless Wash. This is taking the place of a normal water hose flush. This car does not have working brakes so I can't easily move it in and out of the garage.

I still wanted to chemically decontaminate the paint however so I used this modified technique of using lots of waterless wash to flush the surface and then immediately wipe the residues off the car. And "yes" this technique worked for me. Follow my process at your own judgment.

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_043.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_044.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_045.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_046.jpg



I used a waterless wash HEAVY to rinse the car and special tools like the Tonrador Blow Out Gun for blowing the iron x out of cracks and crevises like this...


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_051.jpg


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_057.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_058.jpg





Finished!

Here's the after shots or what I like to call the beauty shots! Near as we can tell this is the original factory paint.


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_066.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_067.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_068.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_069.jpg

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/558/1961_Plymouth_Fury_070.jpg





All the pictures are incredible and can be found here,


Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/97575-before-after-1961-plymouth-fury-barn-find.html)


:)

[Setec Astronomy]

Wow Mike, I guess the Showcar Garage didn't smell very good that day...and a stinky load of towels after, also!

Great suggestion for the OP on how to decon without a hose, and great problem-solving on your part.