Barn Find

[CAMMIN HEMI]

I got lucky and was able to purchase a 1992 Corvette coupe LT1 in good condition. It belonged to a lady that had passed and the elderly husband decided to sell. It is a survivor and totally stock and original. I can restore the mechanicals but have questions on this original metallic red paint. I believe it is a base coat clear coat. The front and rear bumpers have the typical fading. Is there anything short of a repaint that can improve the appearance of the bumpers? I have no experience polishing what appears to be a type of urethane? Also polishing and waxing the compound fiberglass panels would be the same steps as metal panels? The paint condition isn't to bad with minor crazing and miniscule white specs I have no idea what they are. I was thinking of doing a test spot by washing, clay, polish lightly with Megs Ultimate polish or use Megs #7 glaze instead, and top with Megs Ultimate liquid wax. Sound good? Maybe I'm over thinking this but I have zero zilch experience with painted fiberglass panels. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Any advice on 25 year old original paint on this vette ( base/clear ) to safely polish? Thank you!

[MarkD51]

Many others could probably ask a zillion questions.

Some pictures might help if possible. The better you can take them to show different areas, and what you have might go a long way to helping you.

Was this indeed a barn find, where the car sat somewhat protected from the elements, or was it stored outdoors?

As Mike Phillips might say, and regardless of whether single stage paint or two-stage base-clearcoat, Meguiars #7 Glaze first before going any further to any polishes would no doubt be wisest, and probably help feed the paint with some good "nutrients" first before anything else is done.

Mike describes this process where the car would be first washed, then #7 applied and then let sit. I think I've heard him mention the application can be as long as 24 hours before removal for it to do its job.

Hope this helps some, so that you won't possibly do any unnecessary damage to the fragile paint with hasty processes and initially using incorrect products.

Yes, "Paint is Paint", regardless of what it's applied over. But often Paint that is applied over front-rear bumpers is a bit different, that flex agents are added to such paints I believe. And often, these areas can really look like A$$ in comparison to the other body panels.

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Thanks MarkD51! I was thinking the same thing about doing an oops and damaging the paint. The car was driven spring summer fall and kept in a garage in winter. The lady that owned it only put 20,000 miles on the car while she owned it since 2003. I'll try and post a couple pictures. Would you clay before using Megs #7? it isn't really a true barn find, but the post title got your attention! Plus an unmodified 1992 totally stock with a non-abused history with 87k is a rare find. All the service history, original paperwork that came with the car new, and the window sticker was included in the car.

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Here are a few pics:

[FUNX650]

Nice find!

It would have been cool if it had
been equipped with the optional
{for "only" an additional $31,683.00}
"Special Performance Package"

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/IMG_27023.JPG


Bob

[rlmccarty2000]

Now that make me feel old. I had an 1989 Vette that I traded in for a new 1993 triple black convertible Vette. I guess I'm a classic now. Lol. Be careful polishing the bumpers as heat will cause the paint to "slide" off the plastic and/or cause the plastic to crack. A respray may be necessary. Getting the bumper paint to match the body is an art.

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Thanks! Does it look like clearcoat failure in picture #12? I don't know how where to start. Maybe start on the driver door mirror as a test spot? Wash, clay, then try Megs #7? Up close the paint looks the same as picture #12 on all the horizontal panels. What would be possible to help the bumpers look better, short of a re-paint? I'm afraid to try even a mild compound or polish. Suggestions? Thank you!!!9

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Thanks Bob! I always wanted a vette since high school. Don't feel old rimccarty2000. I'm 65 and the grand kids think grampy has lost it lol! I've always been practical when it comes to spending but I couldn't help myself. It's a dream come true! I'm in the minority I know but 1992 to 1996 C4's are my favorite. Now to figure out how to make it look it's best without damaging this fragile factory paint. What and how would you do first?

[fightnews]

Thanks Bob! I always wanted a vette since high school. Don't feel old rimccarty2000. I'm 65 and the grand kids think grampy has lost it lol! I've always been practical when it comes to spending but I couldn't help myself. It's a dream come true! I'm in the minority I know but 1992 to 1996 C4's are my favorite. Now to figure out how to make it look it's best without damaging this fragile factory paint. What and how would you do first?

Maybe take it to a professionial detailer around where you live to see what they can do. just because you have no experience polishing. If you do it yourself i guarantee you will easily spend over 200-300 on a polisher pads and products but, once you have them and the experience doing it, you have them always

[CAMMIN HEMI]

I have a PCXP and lot of Megs products in the Professional line and the Ultimate line with a good assortment of 5 inch foam pads. But my experience is limited to painted metal panels on cars and trucks. Polishing plastic bumpers and fiberglass panels on a 25 year old vette is a whole new ball game to me. I just love this car so much and it would kill me to do a major oops right out of the gate. I know to start with a test spot and go the least aggressive on pads and polish, but I'm wrestling with a good combination of pad and polish to start with. Maybe Meg's 205 and a white pad?

[MarkD51]

Mike Phillips is one person who I would trust to advise what steps should be first taken.

I know a pittance of what Mike knows, but would probably be correct to say that just a basic good wash, and Meguiars #7 should be the first things to do.

That #7 will feed and aid-strengthen the paint in regaining some degree of better durability, before any other processes, including claying are done.

Perhaps a search on Meg's #7 in Mike Phillip's tutorials will be an aid, to see how mike goes about such processes with such paint.

The crazing, or what appears to be crazing of the paint could be an issue? I would think the major theme would be to use the least aggressive methods and products. That it will be vastly better to do too little than to do too much.

Do you own a D/A? If so, and after the #7 Treatment, and then perhaps claying with a mild clay, then perhaps consider a very mild finishing polish. Meguairs #205 would be a good one that's usually easy enough to get at the big box stores, or here.

Hard to tell the fragility of the paint from the pics, but I would probably steer clear of edges, and not be aggressive on those areas due to probably very thin paint.

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Thank you Mark! I can't tell what is going on with the paint either. I was hoping the pictures I posted on page one would help identify if I have the beginning of clear coat failure or the paint is just drying up from old age or it is something to do with the Corvette fiberglass panels. The mirrors have the same appearance and being metal I'm thinking fiberglass isn't the cause of the rough appearance. The paint on the top of the plastic front and rear bumpers also have this rough appearance with tiny speckled white dots. I'm going to clay a mirror and then try a coat of #7 and see what happens. I'll keep updating this post.

[CAMMIN HEMI]

Well after much research and looking at the paint with a magnifying glass I believe it is the beginning of clearcoat failure. The tiny white speckles look more like tiny craters under magnification - damn it! After I did a 2 bucket wash, probably do rinseless from now on, I tried several test spots with different combinations of products. I used a fine clay after the wash using gentle pressure and lots of Meg's QD for lube. That is when I saw just a smidge of red paint in the clay and thought crap that isn't good after doing the entire front dog house. To make a long story short the best combo of products after the clay was good ole Meg's #7 followed up with a coat of Meg's #26. This was all done by hand as I wanted to be as gentle as I could and kept the DA in the toolbox. The Mrs. says it has a lot more shine now. It looks good until you examine it closely under sunlight or fluorescent lights. I guess I'll see how long I can prolong a re-paint. Thanks everyone for your comments and reading my post!

[ronkh57]

Those are notorious for clear coat failure on front and back bumpers.

Sorry