Want to order tonight, need some help with products and order of using products

[thebouncer]

Okay so I have a few cars I need to correct that have paint chips and some deep scratches in the clear and a few down to primer and need to order some supplies but I am not sure if I have picked the right things

QUESTION 1:List of products correct and in correct order of steps?
1. Wolfgang Uber Compound
2. ?
3. Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Protection (Fire over Ice kit)
4. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish ? (not sure if needed or if the wet diamond takes the place of this
5. Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnuba Wax (Fire over Ice kit)

NOTE: if there is something better than Blackfire let me know as this is what I have used in the past

QUESTION 2 Correct Pads
Needed for the above mentioned items
I think I need the Lake Country 5.5 inch CCS Pads 2 Orange, 2 White, 2 Red (can someone confirm ?)

QUESTION 3 Dr. Chip
Getting Dr. Chip for the Chips.. Do I do this before or after the paint correction above ?

QUESTION 4 Deep Scratches
Is there any product that will hide scratches that have gone down into the primer ?

FINAL QUESTION
I have a couple of small rust bubbles starting on the roof of my car, any way I can fix this myself without taking it to a body shop ? I am getting two tiny bubble spots (size pf pencil eraser) with rainbow like discoloration.


Thank you in advance for any help and if you have any recommendations outside of what I am considering please let me know.
Don't want to miss this sale as I'm buying a lot..

[TTQ B4U]

Okay so I have a few cars I need to correct that have paint chips and some deep scratches in the clear and a few down to primer and need to order some supplies but I am not sure if I have picked the right things

QUESTION 1:List of products correct and in correct order of steps?
1. Wolfgang Uber Compound
2. ?
3. Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Protection (Fire over Ice kit)
4. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish ? (not sure if needed or if the wet diamond takes the place of this
5. Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnuba Wax (Fire over Ice kit)

There are tons and tons of options and choices here. If you're just starting out you have the option of using what you know and like of course. I like to keep things simple early-on until you get experience and learn how different products respond on different manufacturers as there are sometimes subtle differences.

I'm not familiar with WG Uber Compound. I personally like Meg's products. M101 is my strong compound of choice for really rough stuff. It can be toned down a bit with the use of different pads too. I work with wool and microfiber for bad paint, orange pads for rough, etc.

I then move to M205 for polish and typically on anything from green to white. Colors sometimes are funny as they can vary from buffer system to buffer system but it appears you're looking at typical LC Pads.


QUESTION 2 Correct Pads
Needed for the above mentioned items
I think I need the Lake Country 5.5 inch CCS Pads 2 Orange, 2 White, 2 Red (can someone confirm ?)

For compounding you'll need 5-6 per typical car unless you plan on washing them between use. I personally buy 6 using maybe 5 (swap every other panel) and have a spare for various reasons. Polish wise, if you're following up a compound job, yes you can get away with 2. I say 3 though as I always want a spare on hand. Never know when you ruin or drop one. For the LSP, I go black, but honestly, any black, red, etc. will work. Again, 2-3 is fine.


QUESTION 3 Dr. Chip
Getting Dr. Chip for the Chips.. Do I do this before or after the paint correction above ?


Good choice. I usually do mine after the vehicle is corrected and polished but before the LSP is applied. Depending on the chip or damage, you will likely wet-sand the impact area and then use something like Eraser to clean out any residual debris or polish. Once corrected with the Dr. System you may or may not need to wet-sand again to level it out. All depends on how good you can touch up things and the type of impact. I tend to do a lot of wet sanding and leveling to blend things in perfectly. I have also done it without doing it and had great results.


QUESTION 4 Deep Scratches
Is there any product that will hide scratches that have gone down into the primer ?

^^ Dr. Color chip. If they haven't gone down through the color but are deep, I'd fill them will clear coat touch up, wet sand and polish to gloss.


FINAL QUESTION
I have a couple of small rust bubbles starting on the roof of my car, any way I can fix this myself without taking it to a body shop ? I am getting two tiny bubble spots (size pf pencil eraser) with rainbow like discoloration.

Here I've use an exacto-knife to cut around the bubble to remove the paint and allow for the oxidation to be neutralized. Lots of good products on the market at the auto store to use to neutralize the rust and prep it for touch up. THen just follow the Dr. System methods noted above. Keep in mind most of what I've listed above is not as easy as it sounds and may take practice. Good news is the Dr. System is so easy that you can mess it up, remove the paint with their solvent and start over.

[thebouncer]

pdqgp,

Thank you, wow! lots of good information. Got to be honest though, the mention of wet sanding scares the hell out of me as I don't want to ruin my cars finish.

I have never done wet sanding before (only buffering with a DA Buffer Porter Cable 7425) so I am not familiar at all with the technique or how to do it I am assuming I would need a rotary buffer for that correct ?

Can I use the Dr. Color Chip without wet sanding ?

Two of the vehicles are 2011 blackberry pearl color (the dark blue/black ) Dodge vehicle the other is a 2011 Bright Red Chevy HHR heavily swirled and scratched clear coat cars......is M101 clear coat safe on these?

Any particular product you would recommend for neutralizing the rust ?

Aside from quantity is my pad color selection correct of Orange from the initial compounding and then do I change to white for Polish or another color pad? and what color pad for the paint sealant ?

[TTQ B4U]

pdqgp,

Thank you, wow! lots of good information. Got to be honest though, the mention of wet sanding scares the hell out of me as I don't want to ruin my cars finish.

I have never done wet sanding before (only buffering with a DA Buffer Porter Cable 7425) so I am not familiar at all with the technique or how to do it I am assuming I would need a rotary buffer for that correct ?

I mask off the area tightly and sand by hand. It's done very lightly, but rather than put you in such place, let's perhaps leave that subject for later.


Can I use the Dr. Color Chip without wet sanding ?

absolutely. that's the beauty of their system.


Two of the vehicles are 2011 blackberry pearl color (the dark blue/black ) Dodge vehicle the other is a 2011 Bright Red Chevy HHR heavily swirled and scratched clear coat cars......is M101 clear coat safe on these?

Yes. M101 is perfectly safe. It will finish out very nicely. Just a few passes with a polish after will yield a perfect finish. Here's a 300C I corrected with the Megs products discussed. I used microfiber pads too.

2016 Chrysler 300 AWD by PDQS4 | Photobucket (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/PDQS4/library/Some%20of%20the%20vehicles%20I%20have%20detailed/2016%20Chrysler%20300%20AWD?sort=3&page=1)


Any particular product you would recommend for neutralizing the rust ?

No. I haven't used one for such a purpose in a long while. Most any auto parts store will have some. They usually go on as a liquid and will turn the rust black.


Aside from quantity is my pad color selection correct of Orange from the initial compounding and then do I change to white for Polish or another color pad? and what color pad for the paint sealant ?

Yes, you will move from Orange to White to black or red for your LSP.

[thebouncer]

Autogeek is sold out of M101.. Would Sonax Cutmax or Menzerna FG 400 or Griots Garage Fast Correcting Cream work just as well ? I just realized I used the Uber compound before and it did not remove all the swirls and scratches... what would be better cutting and safe ?

also would I be better off with Microfiber pads then the foam ?

[TTQ B4U]

Autogeek is sold out of M101.. Would Sonax Cutmax or Menzerna FG 400 or Griots Garage Fast Correcting Cream work just as well ? I just realized I used the Uber compound before and it did not remove all the swirls and scratches... what would be better cutting and safe ?

also would I be better off with Microfiber pads then the foam ?

FG400 is great. That's what I would move to then. I do also like MF Pads. My go-to for your set up would be the black Griot's Garage Fast Cutting ones sold here. I do like the added benefit of MF over foam when compounding.

[thebouncer]

FG400 is great. That's what I would move to then. I do also like MF Pads. My go-to for your set up would be the black Griot's Garage Fast Cutting ones sold here. I do like the added benefit of MF over foam when compounding.

Would it be a big difference in time to do a paint correction if I upgraded to a Flex XC 3401 buffer or would I be better off with something else. I find my PC just doesnt have enough power... I have to bury the pads to get any results then the rotation stops and its a lot of passes...

[thebouncer]

Are these the pads you are talking about ? Griots Garage 5.5 inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads - 6 Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-boss-5-inch-pads-6-pack.html) and will they work with either the PC or the Flex ? I am concerned about the hole in the center, couldn't the backer plate make contact ? Sorry for all these questions I really appreciate your help.

[TTQ B4U]

Would it be a big difference in time to do a paint correction if I upgraded to a Flex XC 3401 buffer or would I be better off with something else. I find my PC just doesnt have enough power... I have to bury the pads to get any results then the rotation stops and its a lot of passes...

Absolutely. I wish I had upgraded years prior to my doing so. I do 1-2 details per week now as a part time hobby/paying gig and it saves me 30%+ in time easily. Especially on cars with lots of curves and uneven surfaces. Well worth the money if you're going to invest time into this. The Flex powers through anything you toss at it. In terms of cutting, I have moved to the purple wool pads vs MF now too. Way way smoother to use and they cut fast and very clean. Again, just a light polish and viola! Typical sedan will take me 5-7hrs to 2 step from the initial wash to ready for delivery.

[TTQ B4U]

Are these the pads you are talking about ? Griots Garage 5.5 inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads - 6 Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-boss-5-inch-pads-6-pack.html) and will they work with either the PC or the Flex ? I am concerned about the hole in the center, couldn't the backer plate make contact ? Sorry for all these questions I really appreciate your help.

Nope. Here's what I was using and still have as my back up. Griots Garage 6 inch Micro Fiber FAST Cutting Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-microfiber-pad.html)
You can pick whatever size works for you.

I've since moved to the Lake Country Purple Wool.

[thebouncer]

Is the purple wool clear coat safe or can you burn through it and what would I follow it up with next pad wise and chemical wise from the FG 400 ?

What is the difference in the black microfiber with the foam backer vs no foam backer on the griots ?

[thebouncer]

Are these the correct ones ? Foamed Wool 5.5 x 1 Thick Polishing / Buffing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/5-inch-foamed-wool.html)

[Detailsbydaniel]

All the pads are safe for polishing on clear coats. That being said if you do not use the right methods disaster can strike still. With a da you really have to goof up to burn the paint though compared to the old rotary machines that will chew your clear up in no time.

I am a big fan of griots fast correcting cream for a compound.

A excellent finish polish is rupes white diamond.

Order more pads than you think you need. And blow out the pads with air between passes or use a brush at least. I would swap out a pad per panel to keep them nice and cool. As long as the polish or compound doesn't dry on the pad you can swap back to it for another panel if your running on a few pads only.

[dlc95]

I'd try and get more pads. I like to have at least four cutting, and polishing, and two for wax/sealant.

No M101? Consider M100 as it's pretty beastly.

[TTQ B4U]

Is the purple wool clear coat safe or can you burn through it and what would I follow it up with next pad wise and chemical wise from the FG 400 ?

100% safe. It's technique that is what will cause you to burn-through and IMO it would likely be on the Flex vs the PC unit. An example is when polishing around door handles or on body lines with hard edges. Don't let the buffer sit there and grind on those areas. Don't try and buff the inside cup of a door handle with a 3401 and a wool pad. You'll burn the paint off the edges of the cup in a heartbeat. Follow up polishing is very minimal. Seriously, I've used these wool pads with everything from M101 to Ultimate polish and they cut through scratches with ease yet leave a super super nice finish. Just a couple passes with a white polishing pad and good polish after will be all you need to do.


What is the difference in the black microfiber with the foam backer vs no foam backer on the griots ?

Not sure which two you're comparing? In the end I prefer the purple wool overall. I only brought up the MF Ones as I have used them a lot and like them but find the wool is better all around. Far far less "grabby" and the end finish is way nicer. No haze.


Are these the correct ones ? Foamed Wool 5.5 x 1 Thick Polishing / Buffing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/5-inch-foamed-wool.html)

Yep. Those are the ones.