Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax Pad Issue

[Powerwheels]

I have a Griots 6 inch DA and have used ultimate compound on the Griots orange pad with great results, same with the ultimate polish and the Griots black pad. However the ultimate wax with the Griots red just doesn't work. The pad absorbs the product way too much. Would the black pad be better? Is it best to just get a Meguires pad for the wax? Or just wax by hand, I had no issues by hand. It's like the ultimate liquid wax needs a closed cell pad or something.

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[Marc08EX]

The griot's red pad is the most appropriate pad for waxing. It wouldn't hurt to try the black pad.

But just FYI, the Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax leaves a very thin film of wax, almost non-existent. Is that what you're experiencing?

[Powerwheels]

The layer that's applied is not even visible using the red pad. When I cleaned the pad all the product was soaked in below the surface. I stuck the buffer in a bucket and turned it on high and the bucket walls got covered.

I see one or two posts like this on the web elsewhere, but no real answer. I see no reason for a wax like this to soak in a pad.

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[Powerwheels]

Don M posted this a while back.


You could very well be right ... I was using a lit of product on the finishing pads, BUT, I even took the speed down to a "1" and still it wasn't any better, but now for the good news:

IT WAS THE PADS!!

So like I mentioned earlier, I was going to use a Meguiar's yellow polishing pad to see if I had any better luck applying the Ult Liquid... MAN DID I EVER! 4 dime sized drops to prime the pad and that amount did the entire hood, 4 more drops, the entire roof and 2 drops the trunk lid. After that 4 drops would do two complete panels. I did have to go over each panel several times, because I couldn't really see for sure where it had been applied and where it hadn't.

For removal, there was no buffing involved, just an easy wipe with a clean microfiber, this is where I found out for sure I had covered every bit of the car, there was a light tug, then smoothness on the second pass. There were no oily swirls, streaks, dark patches, nothing but paint with a super high gloss ... I'm extremely pleased with the process and the results. My suggestion to anyone having trouble like I was ... switch to a slightly firmer pad, it makes a world of a difference

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[Powerwheels]

So I guess I'll try a firmer pad next time, the Griots Black perhaps.

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[The Guz]

Check out Mike's thread on applying wax by machine. Ultimate Wax goes on thin.

Jay Leno’s Garage Hand Wax - Review and How-To by Mike Phillips

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=2622&share_tid=109075&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eautogeekonline%2Enet%2Fforu m%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D109075&share_type=t

[Powerwheels]

It does go on thin, but the red pad just eats product. Like 95%.

Why does the pad have to absorb wax, I would think an 8th inch of open cell with the other half inch just for padding would be ideal for this product.

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[Powerwheels]

I'm going to select a closed cell finishing pad for my next machine application try with ULW.

Perhaps this

Chemical Guys BUFLC_105_6 Lake Country Finishing Pad, Black (6.5 Inch)



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[dlc95]

I'm going to select a closed cell finishing pad for my next machine application try with ULW.

Perhaps this

Chemical Guys BUFLC_105_6 Lake Country Finishing Pad, Black (6.5 Inch)



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Check out the Lake Country Hydrotech - Crimson.

That black pad listed is an 80ppi open cell foam. It is manufactured by buff and shine, which is available here.

I use red buff and shine pads to apply sealants a few times a week. I put a circle of product around the edge, place the pad to the paint, turn on at a low speed, and saturate the foam with a thin layer of sealant. From there three dots or special to reload. Sometimes I use another ring of product... Just depends on the territory I'm covering.

[Powerwheels]

Thanks dic95, that's what I'm going for!

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[Don M]

Don M posted this a while back.


You could very well be right ... I was using a lit of product on the finishing pads, BUT, I even took the speed down to a "1" and still it wasn't any better, but now for the good news:

IT WAS THE PADS!!



I remember this. I tried and tried to use an ultra-soft finishing pad, but the pad soaked up all the ULW and the cells collapsed, leaving me with a flat pancake for a pad. As soon as I switched to the firmer yellow polishing pad, it did a complete 180* and applied like a dream - thin, even and perfect with only very light wiping required to remove it.

[Powerwheels]

I'm just not sure the Griot's pads are compatible with ULW. Even a slightly firmer one. The LC crimson pad looks interesting. I've got the GG 6 inch DA.

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[dlc95]

I'm just not sure the Griot's pads are compatible with ULW. Even a slightly firmer one. The LC crimson pad looks interesting. I've got the GG 6 inch DA.

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That whole line of pads is fantastic. It's about as firm as a white Lake Country finishing pad, but somehow finishes better, and helps keep product on the surface of the pad.

I do a lot of work with green, blue, and red buff and shine pads, however, the Hydrotech are hands down my favorite. They couldn't be more different from one another, yet in some ways my approach with them is similar. The Hydrotech will wear out faster, but I'm ok with that.

[Powerwheels]

Check out the Lake Country Hydrotech - Crimson.

That black pad listed is an 80ppi open cell foam. It is manufactured by buff and shine, which is available here.

I use red buff and shine pads to apply sealants a few times a week. I put a circle of product around the edge, place the pad to the paint, turn on at a low speed, and saturate the foam with a thin layer of sealant. From there three dots or special to reload. Sometimes I use another ring of product... Just depends on the territory I'm covering.
The hydo tech pads say for water based products, is that an issue?

Would the crimson CCS pad be a better choice?

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[Powerwheels]

Bump

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