Help with torch red C5 corvette RIDS

[dewoof01]

Hello,

Been lurking here for ages but first time I've needed to post. Wealth of knowledge here. So I have a 98' corvette I've had for about 1.5 years. I got a steal on the car and the paint is in good shape overall. However when I've been detailing I notice rids that aren't real deep as in I cannot feel them with my fingernail. Also a lot of minor marring in the clear on the power hood and front bumper. I compounded and olished last year using the following.

Porter cable DA

LC flat pads orange and white
3m perfect it compound
CG v36
Wolfgang hgps 3.0

Shine was great on the car and looked great but close up in the right lift these rids would show up. Now I'm super anal about the paint on all my cars. My vette is a garage queen and only sees about 1000 miles a year only in nice weather.

So I don't want to wet sand any of the rids but this year I was hoping to be more aggressive in my spring detail. I tried uber compound which I've had great luck with on my truck and suv and a LC yellow pad. After 2 attempts with uber of 6-8 section passes each the finish on the paint is flawless but these minor rids still appear untouched. I have experience with a rotary and I have a Makita rotary but I have no desire to go that route as the da is much safer. My question is should I step up to the meguiars da system or another? Or because f the hard clear do I just have to live with these rids.

50/50 shot of before and after with the uber compound. Did quick work of the swirls!
Left side bad swirls right side flawless
55963

Now this area has been gone over 2 times with yellow pad and tubes compound. Still scratches and these cannot be felt with a fingernail at all.

55964

[BudgetPlan1]

Try the Megs D300 w/ microfiber cutting discs. Worked out some deep stuff on our black C5.

[dewoof01]

Thanks. Thinking the pad is the problem. Technique can't be any better and considering I have gone over this paint 5+ times total with just compound I can't see a few more passes making a difference. Any idea if Griot's boss pads would be better than the meguiars MF pads?

[GSKR]

Sonax cutmax and some micropads would be my first try or 105 or even m100.They don't look that deep.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks.

Thinking the pad is the problem.

Technique can't be any better and considering I have gone over this paint 5+ times total with just compound I can't see a few more passes making a difference.



Read through my DA Troubleshooting Guide. Check to see if you're making any of the more common mistakes. IF you are... making a SINGLE adjustment to your technique can make the difference between so-so results and Showcar results.


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html)







Any idea if Griot's boss pads would be better than the meguiars MF pads?




I'd say about the same as they are both basically "fiber" pads.

Remember, fibers are a form of abrasive, this is why you see guys use fiber pads for MORE AGGRESSIVE CUTTING ACTION. For the same reason they are a form of abrasives they can leave behind micro-marring. NO problem though, just do a follow-up polishing step with foam and a less aggressive polish and you can remove micro-marring.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

.


If you prefer to use foam, the gray pad in the LC ThinPro line is wicked sharp...


Lake Country ThinPro Foam Buffing Pads exclusively at Autogeek (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/new-car-care-products/96756-lake-country-thinpro-foam-buffing-pads-exclusively-autogeek.html)


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/526/Thin_Pro_pads_004.jpg



ThinPro pads are available in 5.5" diameter and 6.5" pads.


On Autogeek.com

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5 inch (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-thinpro-5-inch.html)

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 6.5 inch (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-thinpro-6-inch-pads.html)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

.


Remember... factory paint is thinner than a post-it note, click the link below and look at the pictures...


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/87410-clearcoats-thin-mike-phillips.html)



If while buffing you see the color of the basecoat on your buffing pad this is a BAD sign...



:)

[dewoof01]

Thanks guys. I have a couple cutting pads for my rotary that I'll do a sample area with tonight to see. They aren't that deep but dang this clear coat must be hard. Mike thanks for the tips I've adjusted everything thing I can on different areas of the hood and I'm still having issues. I've wet sanded cars before so I know how careful to be and how thin clear is as I've burned through a spot before on a different car. It just feels like I'm getting no cut past just swirl removal on this car. With the meguiars MF pads do you need to use their compound for it. Or can you try whatever you like with it? I have 4 cutting compounds now I'd rather not buy another unless it works great with those pads.

[FUNX650]

^^^Careful...

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/108690-please-help-i-think-clear-coat-damaged.html


Bob

[Mike Phillips]

I have experience with a rotary and I have a Makita rotary but I have no desire to go that route as the da is much safer.








Thanks guys. I have a couple cutting pads for my rotary that I'll do a sample area with tonight to see.

They aren't that deep but dang this clear coat must be hard.



I would say from experience the factory clear on most Corvettes IS on the hard side.

A word of caution...

When working on SMALL areas, like working out an isolcated scratch, BE VERY CAREFUL to not overhead the paint and twist it.

Rotary buffers can generate a lot of heat very fast especially on plastic body parts like Corvette bodies.

When buffing a large panel, while buffing one area the area you're not buffing is cooling down an visa-versa. But when buffing in a small area there is no cooling down time so if you're aware, you can heat that section of panel and paint up really fast.


See my article here,

Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/22325-fight-flight-method-gaging-surface-temperature.html)





Mike thanks for the tips I've adjusted everything thing I can on different areas of the hood and I'm still having issues.

I've wet sanded cars before so I know how careful to be and how thin clear is as I've burned through a spot before on a different car.

It just feels like I'm getting no cut past just swirl removal on this car.



That probably has to do with the hardness factor of the clear.





With the meguiars MF pads do you need to use their compound for it. Or can you try whatever you like with it?

I have 4 cutting compounds now I'd rather not buy another unless it works great with those pads.



You can always experiment.

A good general use compound that works by hand or with foam, wool and microfiber pads is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.

Note if you look at the directions for use on the back of all 3M professional compounds and polishes each product is recommended for use at a specific RPM - RPM indicates rotary buffer.

I've never seen 3M to bring out a product for orbital polishers.


:)

[2black1s]

I personally prefer working on isolated defects by hand to keep the "repair" area as small as possible. Also, you need to have a pretty good feeling of whether or not the defect can be removed safely before attempting such, the level of correction desired and/or possible, and the risk you are willing to take. Many defects are better off left as is or only partially "repaired".

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Meguiars MF cutting pad and any quality compound(M100, Griot's Fast Correct Cream, etc..)

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I would agree that a given is that Corvette paint (if factory paint) is always super hard. Gotta really get aggressive to get out RIDS that remain even after what you think is aggressive compounding. My go-to in the past for this is a wool pad on a rotary with Meguiars M101. Only do one or two section passes with this as it is one of the most aggressive combinations you can get. Wipe off a bit and see how it looks. You can always continue compounding since the M101 has SMAT abrasives, just hit it with a spritz of water if the lubrication dries up. Don't be surprised to see heavy hazing and holograms after you do this, you will definitely need a second step with a DA after.

As Mike said, watch the heat on the fiberglass body panels, and unfortunately, you cannot use a paint thickness gauge on a Corvette so proceed with caution.

[WillSports3]

I would recommend honestly CarPro Essence. You basically should polish once a year or so anyway so why not just fill the swirls for one year instead, and let the fine abrasives do their thing. Try using a cutting pad with it, could save you a lot of clear coat.

[dewoof01]

I would recommend honestly CarPro Essence. You basically should polish once a year or so anyway so why not just fill the swirls for one year instead, and let the fine abrasives do their thing. Try using a cutting pad with it, could save you a lot of clear coat.

Interesting. I had heard of the product but never looked into it. I see you can apply cquartz over it but would WG high gloss paint sealant Bond over the top? I polish every spring before the driving season and apply paint sealant then top with pinnacle spray wax or CG v7 every other wash.

I've done rotary with wool pads before after I did a complete wet sand on my old car on the new paint. The cut was awesome but it scared me too much to risk when I don't know how much clear is on this car and where it could be thin.