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View Full Version : Spray waxes or sealants as exclusive LSP?



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Legumes
01-20-2017, 08:13 AM
I'm curious to see how many here do this instead of using them as toppers or drying aids. Almost certain the topic has been discussed multiple times here in the past, but I could not find a topic specifically dedicated to it. Being that my search terms are so broad and every term is used in almost every topic here it's no surprise I didn't find exactly what I was looking for. In my experience using spray wax as my lsp, the car looks just as good and beads well, but the paint slickness is not comparable. I should note that I have not used that many spray products exclusively as lsps, so there's likely some out there that offer more slickness. I would love for anyone that has used a spray product exclusively as a lsp, especially for a long period of time, to chime in with their results.

BTLew81
01-20-2017, 08:34 AM
I have not done so, but I know several have posted about using Reload, Hydr2O, etc as a stand alone. I have considered using Reload and just freshening it monthly, as it would be very easy. Even D156 will probably get you 4 weeks, and OCW will get you a couple of months (or so some say). So, while I am not the person you are looking for, I think it could be done.

Desertnate
01-20-2017, 08:39 AM
There are several spray waxes out now with decent longevity, so using a spray wax as an LSP isn't unthinkable.

I think the biggest hurdle to going totally with a spray wax is the environment. If someone lived in mild climate where they are able to apply the spray wax every month or so, it wouldn't be a bad way to go. However, for those of us who must go through the dark months of winter, something more durable is needed.

If I lived somewhere like southern California or Florida, I could see myself going that route. After every third/fourth wash I'd hit the vehicle with a good spray wax and be done with it in minutes. Not a bad way to go, and I'd use up enough to try lots of different products.

Souldetailer
01-20-2017, 09:18 AM
I don't practice it, but I have used Hydro Max on a non waxed or coated car. HM used as a drying aid or immediately after drying is a fabulous product. Great protection, although short lived. Beads like crazy and gloss for days.

Setec Astronomy
01-20-2017, 09:33 AM
I think if you do a good job removing bonded contaminants, and/or polish the vehicle, you can get pretty far using a wash that "leaves something behind" and a spray wax, if you do that pretty regularly. I mean some of these washes that "leave something behind" would probably be all you need if you are washing every week, again, as long as the paint was in good condition when you started.

I know this is all heresy for some of you.

The other alternate to a spray wax is a WOWA sealant, and some people are using that as a drying aid...in that scenario you'd be pretty good even during a short winter, to address DesertNate's points.

davidc
01-20-2017, 09:45 AM
So the theory goes. If you use Optimum Car Wax and Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax you are golden. I do use both but lack the size of required hardware to try the theory especially in AZ. I always have a coat of Collinite 476S or 885 on first.

Dave

FUNX650
01-20-2017, 10:34 AM
Over the years...
Developments in silicone technology...
(RE: especially "modified silicones")...
have been driving innovation in many
Brands of car-care products.

Combine that innovation with the other
ingredients that constitute the largest
majority of today's "Hybrid LSPs", and
it may nearly be impossible to differentiate
between LSPs' performances based solely
on their form (cream, paste, liquid, spray).


As such:
I can't, or won't, discount a product based
on how it is distributed from it's container
to either an applicator; or, directly to the
vehicles' panel surfaces.


And just to note:
I can't hardly wait to try this one:
Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-fast-finish.html)



Bob

Desertnate
01-20-2017, 10:36 AM
I think if you do a good job removing bonded contaminants, and/or polish the vehicle, you can get pretty far using a wash that "leaves something behind" and a spray wax, if you do that pretty regularly. I mean some of these washes that "leave something behind" would probably be all you need if you are washing every week, again, as long as the paint was in good condition when you started.

I know this is all heresy for some of you.

The other alternate to a spray wax is a WOWA sealant, and some people are using that as a drying aid...in that scenario you'd be pretty good even during a short winter, to address DesertNate's points.

While some may consider it heresy, I think you are on point.

I've gone through a couple bottles of Blackfire Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo and DP Power Wash (a.k.a. McKee's 37 Power Wash). The wax/sealant in those quality wash/wax's is not like the nasty stuff most remember from 10~20 years ago. I found they offered enough of a boost to my LSP that many times I skipped any type of spray wax/QD topper for months at a time. I think a quality wash/wax shampoo and a quality spray wax car care solution should be seriously considered for some people.

As my daughter nears the end of college and prepares to head off, I've already started thinking about setting her up with a RW kit and a bottle or two of a good spray wax. That type of solution should serve her well in apartment life.

boosteddub69
01-20-2017, 12:03 PM
This is the route I'm going to go.

I live in San Antonio so it's never cold for long. I've tried a few coatings, but decided on Optimum's Opti-Seal for my DD as it's garaged at night and I'm pretty good at keeping the car washed every week.

It is a good way to try different stuff too.

hogie
01-20-2017, 12:25 PM
While I don't exclusively use a spray wax I use D156 after every other wash or so and it seems to keep everything nice for me. I normally start with a base of Megs ultimate liquid in the spring and toss another coat on in the fall. It never really has a chance to completely fail as it is always topped with the spray.

That will change this year as I bought Duragloss enviroshield on sale. Yeah, it will probably still get topped

dlc95
01-20-2017, 12:29 PM
I've been using Rupes 808, and Opti-Seal. I'm still doing testing through the winter, but so far 808 has been holding up since November 8th.

I'm all for technological advancements that expedite the process.

Setec Astronomy
01-20-2017, 12:34 PM
While some may consider it heresy, I think you are on point.

I've gone through a couple bottles of Blackfire Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo and DP Power Wash (a.k.a. McKee's 37 Power Wash). The wax/sealant in those quality wash/wax's is not like the nasty stuff most remember from 10~20 years ago. I found they offered enough of a boost to my LSP that many times I skipped any type of spray wax/QD topper for months at a time.

Yeah, that's why I don't really understand all the complaints about washes that "leave something behind". They are so good today that if you're doing a weekly wash, they do seem to almost indefinitely extend your LSP.

SirTanon
01-20-2017, 12:58 PM
I wax my car usually about 2x a year using a proper paste or liquid wax, applied via machine, and then run the time in between by following each and every 2bm wash with an application of D156. In my experience, this has proven to be incredibly effective at maintaining gloss, slickness, beading, etc..

Here is an example of the typical beading I see with the above regimen:

http://oi67.tinypic.com/k3x7qq.jpg

BTLew81
01-20-2017, 02:21 PM
Another alternative, as SirTanon is getting at, is to use something solid in the spring. 845, UPW, etc come to mind. When you wash it, boost it was d156 or the like. This should take you to Fall no issue. This is pretty much the way I do it, using UPW and then D156. Seems to work well, and it's simple.

Audios S6
01-20-2017, 03:14 PM
The silica based spray sealant (and wowa spray sealants) have come a long way. I'm in the process of testing a variety of silica spray sealants over the winter to see if they can make it or not. To this point (2+ months). All are still there doing something, but on the lower portion of doors and rear end, the protection is fading and some may consider it gone depending on their criteria. On other panels they still perform very well. This is the route I'd like to take for all entry level jobs. It's fast, I don't have to worry about residue on PPF edges and I don't need a machine/power to get it done with little effort.