Do you always Agitate IronX/TarX After Dwell?

[Macpage]

All,

After reading replies on removing the adhesive from our new car, I have decided to 2 stage decontamination with these products after initial wash. This is wife's daily driver and, unless I see something really awful, I would like to go straight to paint cleaner and LSP. I typically use Wolfgang PE and Deep Gloss 3.0, maybe a spot touch of swirl remover if necessary. This will be my first time using IronX/TarX or Trix if I combo.

I see most recommend using the TarX first so I'm assuming this is safest progression (does anybody do the opposite?). I've read the posts and watched the videos, but still had a few questions on the application.

The detailed review said to apply the products and then agitate after dwell with users applying by sprayer or sprayer/applicator combination then proceeding with agitation after several minutes. I've also seen the IronX sprayed on and after dwell agitated with the foam gun/wash mitt in a wash step. Of course, these vehicles are then going to clay/correction.

First, in my case will any of these steps necessitate the need for a full correction if I didn't see the need on initial wash inspection?

Second, would it be safer to skip the agitation step if applying by sprayer/applicator initially or use the agitation/foam wash step combination rather than a sponge/mitt agitation alone? Certainly, I'm hoping to keep marring at bay as I'm hoping not to do the full correction.

Lastly, if using the sponge to agitate, what sponge do you recommend? I appreciate the information.

Best,

Mike

[The Guz]

If the car has tar then tarx would make sense. If it doesn't then there is no need to use it.

Ironx would be the product to use to remove iron contaminants from the paint.

I typically use this wash method when using an iron remover and I plan to polish. Knocks out two steps in chemically and mechanically decontaminating the paint. I don't agitate it whatsoever using this method as it is sprayed directly onto the paint with dirt.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html

Mike shows it in this latest video around the 10 min mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2uSYvuLucA&t=632s


I would recommend you do the baggie test to determine if you need to clay or not. You can adjust the wash method accordingly if you do not have to.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

All,

I see most recommend using the TarX first so I'm assuming this is safest progression (does anybody do the opposite?). I've read the posts and watched the videos, but still had a few questions on the application.

Mike

First off, there are several types of car-washes, the "aggressive" car wash and the "gentle" car wash.

Tar-X or Tarminator would be the first step "IF" required and if you were doing an aggressive car wash..
This would mean, after inspection, and if it's a daily driver that hasn't been washed thoroughly in a while and has been subject to road tar, gunk, film etc... likely it's a candidate for Tar-X.

So yes, initially you would want to rinse and wash the specific areas you plan on addressing with Tar-X. Probably bumper cover, behind front and rear wheels and lower rocker panels. Then apply the Tar-X. If the vehicle has stuff gunked on, I may use the McKee's Bug & Tar Scrubber to remove.


The detailed review said to apply the products and then agitate after dwell with users applying by sprayer or sprayer/applicator combination then proceeding with agitation after several minutes. I've also seen the IronX sprayed on and after dwell agitated with the foam gun/wash mitt in a wash step. Of course, these vehicles are then going to clay/correction.


Typically I apply Iron-X once a year on my daily drivers. I use the same method Mike Phillips shows, where after the wheels, tires, engine and tar-x is used, I will spray the vehicle with Iron-X. Let it dwell, then Foam Gun the car and start the wash process.


First, in my case will any of these steps necessitate the need for a full correction if I didn't see the need on initial wash inspection?

These two items are called "Chemical Decontamination". You haven't mentioned mechanical decontamination. After the wash, inspect the paint. Run your hand over it, does it feel smooth?
Now try the "baggie test". Place your hand in a sandwich bag and run it over the same spot. Does it still feel smooth? If not, clay or clay-mitt would be the next step to make the paint smooth and eliminate surface contaminates. Use a fine-poly clay as not to mar the surface. But keep in mind, any clay will have an abrasive to abrade the surface. Key is to use lots of clay lube. Clay creates smoothness. You cannot have gloss without smoothness.

If step 1 (tar-x) and step 4 (mechanical decon/clay) didn't cause any visual marring upon your next inspection, then you have the answer to your question. Typically if your careful, you may not need to correct, but again, it depends..


Second, would it be safer to skip the agitation step if applying by sprayer/applicator initially or use the agitation/foam wash step combination rather than a sponge/mitt agitation alone? Certainly, I'm hoping to keep marring at bay as I'm hoping not to do the full correction.

Yes, that is typically how I do it. Again, how do you know you've removed above surface contaminates without inspection after the wash?


Lastly, if using the sponge to agitate, what sponge do you recommend? I appreciate the information
My #1 go to is the Chenille Wash Mitts, two buckets with grit guards. Gold Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt, microfiber chenille wash mitt (http://www.autogeek.net/gold-plush-wash-mitt.html)

The whole idea is to take each step as carefully as possible so you don't have to correct often.

Hope all this helps!

[Macpage]

If the car has tar then tarx would make sense....I would recommend you do the baggie test to determine if you need to clay or not. You can adjust the wash method accordingly if you do not have to.

Thanks. The car is new, and I have a lot of adhesive on the large panels from shipping wrap. Since, I'd be hitting so much of the vehicle to get the adhesive off, it seemed to make sense to just tarx the whole thing rather than risk missing a spot. Of course, this is just the plan if the wash doesn't get the adhesive, but I want to be prepared. I'll test after each step as you guys suggest.

Best,

Mike

[Bill1234]

As said Tar x is for tar removal and is only used then. As for Iron X, I apply it to a wet surface with a spray or wipe it on with a damp grout sponge. Let the product dwell NOT IN SUNLIGHT OR HIGH HEAT or it will turn white and become hard to get off.

As for wheels though I usually clean them as much as possible then use iron X, it saves alot of money this way.

[Macpage]

So yes, initially you would want to rinse and wash the specific areas you plan on addressing with Tar-X. Probably bumper cover, behind front and rear wheels and lower rocker panels. Then apply the Tar-X. If the vehicle has stuff gunked on, I may use the McKee's Bug & Tar Scrubber to remove.

Thanks so much for all the details. I will be using Tarx on most if not all of the vehicle due to the adhesive mentioned. This is why the initial wash. So, I just spray and/or applicator on the Tarx, let it dwell a moment, give a no pressure agitation with sponge/mitt (just enough to remove contaminants), and then rinse well? I do have some of the bug sponges on hand.


Typically I apply Iron-X once a year on my daily drivers. I use the same method Mike Phillips shows, where after the wheels, tires, engine and tar-x is used, I will spray the vehicle with Iron-X. Let it dwell, then Foam Gun the car and start the wash process.

I want to make sure I have this right with the IronX. Just spray/apply, let dwell, and then proceed directly to foam wash as the agitation ending with very good rinse? Do you ever agitate it after the dwell as a step that isn't part of a wash? I see some agitating after the dwell with an Ironx dampened sponge and then rinsing. As a first time user of the product, I'm thinking wash foam might provide a little margin of error.


If step 1 (tar-x) and step 4 (mechanical decon/clay) didn't cause any visual marring upon your next inspection, then you have the answer to your question. Typically if your careful, you may not need to correct, but again, it depends..

If only, I could get that lucky. I will inspect after these steps. I too use mitts, two buckets, and grit guards.:props: Thanks again. This certainly helps.

Best,

Mike

[Macpage]

As said Tar x is for tar removal and is only used then. As for Iron X, I apply it to a wet surface with a spray or wipe it on with a damp grout sponge. Let the product dwell NOT IN SUNLIGHT OR HIGH HEAT or it will turn white and become hard to get off.

Thanks for the cautions. One good thing about this weather, no sunlight or high heat here for a while.

What's your preferred step(s) after it dwells?

Best,

Mike

[rlmccarty2000]

Spray Iron-X, let dwell. Rinse thoroughly. Wash with soap (2BM, foam lance, foam). Rinse. Rinse around any areas where Iron-X might seep in, like around mirrors or around trim. On older cars Iron-X will keep removing rust if you miss a spot rinsing.