New Paint queston ???

[nomad26]

I just received my car back from the painter of course he said not to apply any products on it for 2 months.
I saw some finger prints on it and applied my Detailer spray on it in various spots thinking what can it hurt .
Read some articles on this site about new paint and
after realizing that was not a good idea.
Now I want to take the detailer (Meguiars) off or wash it back to the way it was.

What soap should I use to get this detailing spray off the paint ?

Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

It's not as big a deal as it seems.

Wash with a properly diluted mixture of Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash.

Then dry carefully so as not to instill any wiping marks.


What did you just get painted? A Chevy Nomad?


Welcome to AutogeekOnline!


:welcome:

[nomad26]

Hi Mike
Thanks for your quick reply.
The car I had painted is a black 94 Miata.
It came out really nice the body work is straight.
The hood has tiny pin imperfections it in which I was not happy with at all .
The painter said not to worry about it that was orange peel and he would fix it after 2 months.
I sure Hope he can .
The painter also did a terrible job of putting the car back together.
I pretty much have had to fix everything he took off the car .
This was my first car to have painted I am not sure I would go through this process again.
Oh he also said after 2 months to apply a ceramic wax.
What do you recommend I use on this car after 2 months ??
Thanks again for the reply I will be buying that soap and a drying towel and wash mit and a couple buckets .
Glade I found this site.

[james751993]

Just no waxes or sealants. You want the paint to cure properly before adding a layer of protection. Like Mike said, gold class is a gentle car wash that should be fine. I also suggest meguiars soft wash gel. Just no wash and wax washes... the layer of protection left behind is questionable but dont take any chances. :)

[james751993]

Any wax or sealant should do. Depends on how much time you want to devote to detailing you car. Carnauba waxes do not last bery long.. here is Australia I see maybe 2-3 weeks out of a carnauba in summer. So if your climate is milder canaubas are an option (unless you like waxing ever month like me ). Carnauba waxes usually add more depth to the paint mainly because of the oils present in the mixture. Sealants are another option, they last longer than waxes, youll probably see about 3-4 months durability. As for ceramic coatings, I havent had any experience with them but I have read that people see about 1 yr of protection out of them :) so it just depends what youre looking for. Durability? Depth? Reflection?

[nomad26]

Any wax or sealant should do. Depends on how much time you want to devote to detailing you car. Carnauba waxes do not last bery long.. here is Australia I see maybe 2-3 weeks out of a carnauba in summer. So if your climate is milder canaubas are an option (unless you like waxing ever month like me ). Carnauba waxes usually add more depth to the paint mainly because of the oils present in the mixture. Sealants are another option, they last longer than waxes, youll probably see about 3-4 months durability. As for ceramic coatings, I havent had any experience with them but I have read that people see about 1 yr of protection out of them :) so it just depends what youre looking for. Durability? Depth? Reflection?
Thanks James I have a bottle of Carnauba wax I will use up .
I don't mind waxing its kind of a therapy for me.
I didn't know that the Carnauba waxes add depth , I like that feature especially for the black car I have.

[james751993]

Carnauba waxes with a high oil content are great for blacks :)

[AZpolisher15]

Hi Mike
Thanks for your quick reply.
The car I had painted is a black 94 Miata.
It came out really nice the body work is straight.
The hood has tiny pin imperfections it in which I was not happy with at all .
The painter said not to worry about it that was orange peel and he would fix it after 2 months.
I sure Hope he can .
The painter also did a terrible job of putting the car back together.
I pretty much have had to fix everything he took off the car .
This was my first car to have painted I am not sure I would go through this process again.
Oh he also said after 2 months to apply a ceramic wax.
What do you recommend I use on this car after 2 months ??
Thanks again for the reply I will be buying that soap and a drying towel and wash mit and a couple buckets .
Glade I found this site.

Orange peel can be improved upon. But pin prick sized little spots/holes are another thing entirely. Can you post a photo? If it's truly the pin prick type of defect and not orange peel, you may want to get some other opinions here from the pros.

[nomad26]

Orange peel can be improved upon. But pin prick sized little spots/holes are another thing entirely. Can you post a photo? If it's truly the pin prick type of defect and not orange peel, you may want to get some other opinions here from the pros.
I will try and take a picture of it . I only have an I phone not sure if I can get a good shot of it

[AZpolisher15]

I will try and take a picture of it . I only have an I phone not sure if I can get a good shot of it

Orange peel is seen on a lot of vehicles now days. It truly looks like the surface of an orange. Rather than being smooth like glass, it's kind of wavy like the surface of an orange. It might be a small area or a large part of a panel. The pin hole type defects, I'm not sure how exactly to describe them-- they're more like little microscopic moon craters. You might see one or two, or an area with a few. I just saw some in photos in an archived forum post but now I can't find it.

I just wanted you to be aware that your description I read here (pin imperfections) didn't seem to match up with what the painter called it (orange peel). And I was under the impression that the pin holes are (arguably) a bigger deal (as in, you might need a repaint rather than a polish job). Hopefully someone else here can help out if you are able to post a pic.

[nomad26]

Orange peel is seen on a lot of vehicles now days. It truly looks like the surface of an orange. Rather than being smooth like glass, it's kind of wavy like the surface of an orange. It might be a small area or a large part of a panel. The pin hole type defects, I'm not sure how exactly to describe them-- they're more like little microscopic moon craters. You might see one or two, or an area with a few. I just saw some in photos in an archived forum post but now I can't find it.

I just wanted you to be aware that your description I read here (pin imperfections) didn't seem to match up with what the painter called it (orange peel). And I was under the impression that the pin holes are (arguably) a bigger deal (as in, you might need a repaint rather than a polish job). Hopefully someone else here can help out if you are able to post a pic.

Yes I would agree with you 100 percent. I pretty much know what orange peel looks like also these little craters or pin holes do not look like orange peel. They appear to be much deeper this is why I had concerns about the painter saying he can rub them out I don't know allot about painting but these imperfections seem to deep and they are not very consistent they are just all over the hood orange peel seems to look more consistent on a surface. I Don't know if the painter was not used to shooting aluminum because that is what a Miata hood is. Its very frustrating I was not happy with the way he put the car back together so I am a bit hesitant to bring this back to him. But at the same time I don't like the idea of paying someone else to repaint it when I just spent all this money to have him paint it. I just tried to take a picture of it and the black just shines right back in the camera like a mirror.
Thanks for you input

[custmsprty]

Yes I would agree with you 100 percent. I pretty much know what orange peel looks like also these little craters or pin holes do not look like orange peel. They appear to be much deeper this is why I had concerns about the painter saying he can rub them out I don't know allot about painting but these imperfections seem to deep and they are not very consistent they are just all over the hood orange peel seems to look more consistent on a surface. I Don't know if the painter was not used to shooting aluminum because that is what a Miata hood is. Its very frustrating I was not happy with the way he put the car back together so I am a bit hesitant to bring this back to him. But at the same time I don't like the idea of paying someone else to repaint it when I just spent all this money to have him paint it. I just tried to take a picture of it and the black just shines right back in the camera like a mirror.
Thanks for you input

Solvent popping
Solvent popping (Fig. 6) is an application phenomenon that occurs when a second coat is applied without sufficient flash time of the first. Solvent, which is still trying to gas out, is trapped underneath the second coat, and as it migrates to the top it bursts, leaving a small crater.

Solvent popping, dirt, and fish eye are commonly mistaken for one another; but with a little knowledge, they can be easily distinguished from each other. First of all, solvent popping generally has a panel-wide distribution, whereas dirt nibs are often found in a single location, often adjacent to a body gap. Dirt that has not been cleaned out properly comes out during application. Fish eye also is limited to a small area, and when examined closely (Fig 7) shows a larger crater, almost volcano-like, where the oil contamination has gathered.

Solvent popping may not be repairable and if severe, the surface must be sanded and repainted. If the solvent popping is not severe, though, the surface may be repaired by sanding and then polishing to produce the desirable gloss and undetectable repair.

Fish eye
Fish eye (Fig. 10) is caused by a contaminant on the surface prior to application of paint. Generally speaking, that contaminant is a light oil (silicon), which has, by whatever means, found its way to the surface of the vehicle. When paint is applied on top of this contaminant, the paint is unable to adhere to the oily surface and a "fish eye crater" is caused.


Click here to view full-size graphic

Fish eye is a preparation defect. If the surface has been properly cleaned and degreased using a wax and grease remover, fish eye can usually be prevented completely. If fish eye does occur, particularly in the first coat, often painters will let that coat fully tack off, then follow it by a second coat, which often "bridges" the fish eye so that it becomes invisible. A third coat is applied, not only for full coverage but also to make sure that there is sufficient paint for detailing later. After the paint is fully cured, if slight remnants of the fish eye are visible, it can be sanded and polished.

If during the second coat the fish eyes are not bridged, it is highly unlikely that a third coat will accomplish an acceptable result. Therefore, in this instance the finish should be dried, sanded and repainted.

[nomad26]

Solvent popping
Solvent popping (Fig. 6) is an application phenomenon that occurs when a second coat is applied without sufficient flash time of the first. Solvent, which is still trying to gas out, is trapped underneath the second coat, and as it migrates to the top it bursts, leaving a small crater.

Solvent popping, dirt, and fish eye are commonly mistaken for one another; but with a little knowledge, they can be easily distinguished from each other. First of all, solvent popping generally has a panel-wide distribution, whereas dirt nibs are often found in a single location, often adjacent to a body gap. Dirt that has not been cleaned out properly comes out during application. Fish eye also is limited to a small area, and when examined closely (Fig 7) shows a larger crater, almost volcano-like, where the oil contamination has gathered.

Solvent popping may not be repairable and if severe, the surface must be sanded and repainted. If the solvent popping is not severe, though, the surface may be repaired by sanding and then polishing to produce the desirable gloss and undetectable repair.

Fish eye
Fish eye (Fig. 10) is caused by a contaminant on the surface prior to application of paint. Generally speaking, that contaminant is a light oil (silicon), which has, by whatever means, found its way to the surface of the vehicle. When paint is applied on top of this contaminant, the paint is unable to adhere to the oily surface and a "fish eye crater" is caused.


Click here to view full-size graphic

Fish eye is a preparation defect. If the surface has been properly cleaned and degreased using a wax and grease remover, fish eye can usually be prevented completely. If fish eye does occur, particularly in the first coat, often painters will let that coat fully tack off, then follow it by a second coat, which often "bridges" the fish eye so that it becomes invisible. A third coat is applied, not only for full coverage but also to make sure that there is sufficient paint for detailing later. After the paint is fully cured, if slight remnants of the fish eye are visible, it can be sanded and polished.

If during the second coat the fish eyes are not bridged, it is highly unlikely that a third coat will accomplish an acceptable result. Therefore, in this instance the finish should be dried, sanded and repainted.

Sounds like a very good description

[AZpolisher15]

Solvent pop. That's it. Thanks for the refresher, custmsprty.

[JKDesign]

Chiming in as an actual bodyshop guy. Honestly you don't need to wait two months. One month is more than sufficient for the paint to reach its full hardness/cure. You are more then okay to wash for that first month, just no sealants or waxes. And as just an FYI to everyone, all manufacturer applied paint has some level of orange peel, or in some cases it is referred to as Fat Lady's Ass (FLA), its still got that waviness to it but not as severe as what we think of as orange peel. I think the only car manufacturer that I know of that does not have orange peel in their paint is Koenigsegg.