Polishing BMW hard CC?

[miaM7]

Hi,
so I've tried multiple passes with PB SSR2.5 on a small 2'x2', and i got no results. Almost like the CC is freakin very hard. I've read and searched and it seems generally BMW's have hard clears.

So what polishing products do you recommend to take out light to medium swirls using a PC ? and is there a specific technique for those CC that are hard ?

Thanks a lot !

[budman3]

Machine? Pad choice? Size? Speed? How long did you work it in for? How bad are the swirls? Color?

Take a look at the link in my signature for tips on how to get best results with SSR2.5

[miaM7]

Machine? Pad choice? Size? Speed? How long did you work it in for? How bad are the swirls? Color?

Take a look at the link in my signature for tips on how to get best results with SSR2.5
Machine: Porter 7424 w 6" counterweight
Pad: 6" Orange
Speed: Tried 5, then 6.
Worked for 5 mn !
BMW Color: A08 Silvergrey metallic.
Swirls: please take a look at attached pic !

I've read your link before,great tips, but didnt help in my case. I realize polishing is not an easy task, so many variables, so many parameters. i underestimated the task.

[TOGWT]

For Ceramiclear and other hard clear coats (i.e. Audi, Corvette, BMW, VW, etc) and most other paint systems I recommend a two level foam pad / polish system to really bring out the paint. Start with PO 106ff and an LC Orange foam pad and follow with white foam.Menzerna polishes will not finish up dry, but will always have a hazy film to them. Work them until the haze changes from the polish colour to almost transparent

Slow Hand method - (apologies to Eric C) using a random orbital polisher, Menzerna Final Finish
(PO 106 FA or Nano Polish 105FF) and a LC White VC or CCS foam pad - this polish is formulated with very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that allows for a consistent breakdown and thus a consistent micro marring free finish when used - Start at speed # 4, move the pad slowly across the area, then speed # 5, without any pressure, when the polish starts to go clear, spray the pad with distilled water, reduce to speed
# 4, then spray pad again, increase to speed # 5 and apply pressure.

Apply polish at a machine linear speed (MLS) of approximately 0.25 to 0.5-inch per second. Regardless of the polish you choose, ensure that you keep your work area small, around 18- Inch by 18-inch panel (hence ‘slow hand’) Finely burnish paint surface using an ultra-fine (100 PPI) finishing, primed foam pad (LC Black Finessing CCS Foam pad) this method is time consuming but the results are well worthwhile.

[budman3]

maiM7- is that factory paint or a repaint?? The reason I ask is because in the picture I see marks in the paint that look like to be similar to orange peel that isn't actually OP. I have seen repaints look like this before, and there is a possibility that the defects that you are trying to remove are deep into the clear coat or are actually under the clear coat. It's too hard for me to tell...

If it is just regular BMW paint, the only swirling that I see is just above the light in the picture. The markings that are right on the light is what looks like a paint defect, not swirls. If you are talking about the swirls above the light, SSR2.5 and the orange (light cutting pad, Lake Country, I assume) may be too aggressive. You can try SSR2.5 with a while polishing pad or a lighter polish with a polishing pad to see if that improves the finish ... Sometimes people don't see any results from a similar combo to yours when they are actually inducing the marring from an abrasive polish and an aggressive pad.

[miaM7]

maiM7- is that factory paint or a repaint?? The reason I ask is because in the picture I see marks in the paint that look like to be similar to orange peel that isn't actually OP. I have seen repaints look like this before, and there is a possibility that the defects that you are trying to remove are deep into the clear coat or are actually under the clear coat. It's too hard for me to tell...

If it is just regular BMW paint, the only swirling that I see is just above the light in the picture. The markings that are right on the light is what looks like a paint defect, not swirls. If you are talking about the swirls above the light, SSR2.5 and the orange (light cutting pad, Lake Country, I assume) may be too aggressive. You can try SSR2.5 with a while polishing pad or a lighter polish with a polishing pad to see if that improves the finish ... Sometimes people don't see any results from a similar combo to yours when they are actually inducing the marring from an abrasive polish and an aggressive pad.

Wow ... i cant actually remember where i took the pic. But i think it was on the hood, and it is OEM. I do agree that sometimes it looks like it's under the CC. but how would that happen ??? It is so hard to take pics of those imperfections. I have abandonned the project for now, as I think I need to read up a lot, research and learn before i try and make the paint worse. Thanks for all your help.

[supercharged]

Hi,
so I've tried multiple passes with PB SSR2.5 on a small 2'x2', and i got no results. Almost like the CC is freakin very hard. I've read and searched and it seems generally BMW's have hard clears.

So what polishing products do you recommend to take out light to medium swirls using a PC ? and is there a specific technique for those CC that are hard ?

Thanks a lot !
Menzerna SIP, and PO106FF will be your best friends.

[miaM7]

maiM7- is that factory paint or a repaint?? The reason I ask is because in the picture I see marks in the paint that look like to be similar to orange peel that isn't actually OP. I have seen repaints look like this before, and there is a possibility that the defects that you are trying to remove are deep into the clear coat or are actually under the clear coat. It's too hard for me to tell...

you made me think further ... the front of the hood where the grills are was dented, so they fixed it, but i dont think they would have repainted the whole hood, nor would they have applied new layer of clear all over?i would think they would blend close to the repair area ... what do ya think ?

[budman3]

I have limited knowledge when it comes to body shop work and repainting. I would guess that it all depends on the body shop. I think a reputable body shop would blend the whole hood and possibly into the fenders and bumper too. But then again thats just a guess by me. If the defects are infact under the clear ... they're going to be there until another repaint :(.

Try polishing another panel on the car that you know for sure is OEM and see what the results are. If the swirls and marring are still present, then we can go from there. I'm not sure what the condition of the rest of the car is in but if it only has minor swirling, SSR2.5 and a polishing pad (white) may be better than the light cut pad (orange). But you'll have to make that decision when your working on the vehicle. Good luck!

[miaM7]

Thanks budman ! now i am confused, should i order the 106FF only, or with SIP ... or just stick with the ssr2.5 & ssr1 & experiment more ... It seems in these forums, everyone swears by Menzerna !

[budman3]

While Menzerna is a nice product, I have had better experiences with the SSRs. The SSRs are very very easy to use and remove. Plus the results are mighty fine as well. Menzerna is actually designed to be used with a rotary polisher and the PC / UDM do not create enough heat to fully break down Menzerna polishes. This means the results may not be exceptional and the polish may (most likely will) be difficult to remove. IMO Menzerna gets too much hype and isn't worth the extra money, but hey, that's just my opinion. I suggest trying to polish a different panel with what you have and then if you are not satisified, you can opt to try a different line... why bother buying a $50 polish if the SSR2.5 you already have works as you want?

[miaM7]

Thanks for your tips and suggestions. I really appreciate the time you guys take to help and guide us newbies! My bro (najman) just ordered some stuff so i said what the heck, lets try out the nano polish and see what works best !

I will definitely try again on another panel w ssr2.5/white pad and try to take pics before and after. I just hate using that PC, it vibrates so freakin much even with the right counterweight.

[The Skillmaster]

you made me think further ... the front of the hood where the grills are was dented, so they fixed it, but i dont think they would have repainted the whole hood, nor would they have applied new layer of clear all over?i would think they would blend close to the repair area ... what do ya think ?

It depends where the dent was. If it was in the middle of the hood, the color coat would get blended out but the entire hood would get a coat of clear (at a good body shop anyway).

[richy]

Thanks budman ! now i am confused, should i order the 106FF only, or with SIP ... or just stick with the ssr2.5 & ssr1 & experiment more ... It seems in these forums, everyone swears by Menzerna !

Buddy..it's like using Menz is like dating a supermodel and anything else just doesn't compare...but I use a rotary.