Iron X (or similar) users

[UTdetailing]

I've noticed many are now using "Iron X" then clay/clay alternative. I'm just curious what advantage this holds? Is clay/clay alternative not as effective in removing the imbedded ferrous particles as we thought it was for quite some years?


I'm starting to put detailing up there with cell phones. Decide what you want and wait 3 months, something better will be out.

[chefwong]

For pre-polishing decontam, IronX 1st, and clay afterwards. Clay is still used...just less muck on the clay due to pre-pre decontam.

[pilotpip]

I've noticed a lot less marring when using iron-x and other like products prior to claying. Why not reduce the amount of stuff picked up and dragged across your clear coat by dissolving some of it first?

[The Guz]

See the following video. Mike goes into detail on why to use an iron remover. It's around the 10:30 mark


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2uSYvuLucA

[Paul A.]

I like the advertised effect of dissolving metal filaments or particles before claying. I want Iron X to work down into the paint and dissolve/remove the tiny metal pieces before i clay. Claying would simply break it off and maybe leave what's left flush with the paint. I want them gone so they don't develop as rust spots later. Plus i don't like breaking of metal pieces and having it in the clay scratching my paint.

[MarkD51]

As most have understood and stated, claying only "shaves off" the iron particles, and only removes contaminants "above the paint surface. That Iron particles can be like metal "slivers" in the paint finish.

Now while I understand that wholly, and while I also understand that Iron contamination is a "never ending occurrence", that just because you de-conned with an Iron Remover, that does not mean now that the vehicle is going to remain Iron free for the rest of its life.

Now while I can understand it re-occurring with waxes and sealants, I wonder how much more resistant the more durable paint coatings are in fending off such contamination?

I'm getting the impression that yes, better protection, but still not quite "iron-proof". Correct?

[Paul A.]

I have to agree 100%, Mark. I use Iron X more frequently than when i first started out using it. Good analogy of clay "shaving" too.

There was another thread recently about iron contamination on various LSP's and i have to think that 2 layers of a coating product would be the most robust defense. They're still gonna get there but MAYBE not as deep.

[derass]

In that video, Mike uses the Iron-X on the unwashed car. How about if the car is REALLY dirty? Would it be better to wash and dry, then use the fallout remover?

[Eldorado2k]

In that video, Mike uses the Iron-X on the unwashed car. How about if the car is REALLY dirty? Would it be better to wash and dry, then use the fallout remover?

Yes


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[UTdetailing]

Thanks all for the input. Can anyone chime in about McKee Extreme Iron Remover vs. Car Pro?

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I've noticed many are now using "Iron X" then clay/clay alternative. I'm just curious what advantage this holds? Is clay/clay alternative not as effective in removing the imbedded ferrous particles as we thought it was for quite some years?


I'm starting to put detailing up there with cell phones. Decide what you want and wait 3 months, something better will be out.

They are two are separate processes and should not be one or the other, rather both.
*Iron-X is a chemical decontamination to remove rail-dust, iron-fall-out.
*Clay is a mechanical decontamination process to remove above surface bonded contaminates such as over-spray, sap, tar, etc..

For Severe:
My wash process is a multi-step process on a vehicle that has never been washed or detailed in a very long time. I call this a SEVERE Condition. Most vehicles in that condition are severe and require multi-steps. After the obvious wheels/tires/wheel-wells/engine bay first...

- I'll first wash areas such as the bumper cover, rocker panels and behind the wheels to remove the lose dirt.
- I'll use a generous amount of Tarminator and a McKee's Scrubber (generally in New England, it's common to use cold-patch on roads with pot holes. Cold patch will stick to the sides of cars as tar nuggets).

- Once all those steps are accomplished, I go onto rinse the vehicle of all loose dirt.
- With the new McKee's Extreme Iron Remover, Mike states one does not need to rinse the car and may just apply the Iron Remover.
- Let the Iron Remover dwelling on the vehicle after several minutes (depending on weather, temp, sun)
- Foam bath the vehicle with the iron remover still on the vehicle and wash the vehicle (2BM).
- Generous Rinse
- Dry vehicle (including door jambs, trunk and hood jambs).
- At this point, inspect your paint with your bare hand. Is it smooth? Now inspect with a baggie, is it still smooth? If not move onto claying the vehicle.

After claying is compete, inspect the paint. Does it have swirls and scratches? If so, move onto correction phase.

For non sever, meaning well maintained, (like most Autogeek vehicles on this forum... OCD...) :)
Yearly I'll use Iron-X & Clay, but generally my POV's are just washed with a 2BM and some No Rinse Wash, or Megs Hyper Wash, dried and generally look great after.
I use coatings so a leaf blower will make water run from the vehicle like an impala trying to escape a hungry cheetah in the Serengeti.

It's all in Mike's Video; the "Aggressive Wash" and the "Gentle Wash".

[Klasse Act]

Thanks all for the input. Can anyone chime in about McKee Extreme Iron Remover vs. Car Pro?
I have used McKee's version of Iron X and it works great BUTT it doesn't smell as bad, a win win IMO[emoji106]

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[vanev]

I could never use Iron X as a Clay lubricant.
The smell is just too bad.
It is that difficult to put up with.
Gets on your clothes and shoes, stinks up the air, stinks everywhere.
Whenever I finish, or can sell off, what is left of my Iron-X, I will be giving McKee's a try.

[fightnews]

i used mckees iron remover last week. i messed up the car bad though. i bought a clay mitt thinking i would save myself some time even though i have plenty of clay. i skipped the breaking it in on glass step because i didn't read it on the directions and i just forgot. it was about ten degrees colder then what they recommend to use it . anyway it totally destroyed my hood. all this gray crap was stuck on to it. it was rough as hell and severely marred up. it all came out and its back to normal now but it was a hard lesson to learn. luckily i used it on the glass right after doing it on the hood so it didn't damage the rest of the car much.

[Just02896]

i used mckees iron remover last week. i messed up the car bad though. i bought a clay mitt thinking i would save myself some time even though i have plenty of clay. i skipped the breaking it in on glass step because i didn't read it on the directions and i just forgot. it was about ten degrees colder then what they recommend to use it . anyway it totally destroyed my hood. all this gray crap was stuck on to it. it was rough as hell and severely marred up. it all came out and its back to normal now but it was a hard lesson to learn. luckily i used it on the glass right after doing it on the hood so it didn't damage the rest of the car much.

Next time, fill your bucket with a hot water and ONR solution. The hot water softens the rubber and the ONR provides lubrication which helps prevent marring.