DLux Wheel Application Help

[spewking]

I want to make sure my removal of DLux is being done correctly.

i wait approximately 5 minutes after application as it is 65 degrees here. The DLux has a slightly milky and chalky appearance on the wheels at the 5 minute mark. Removal with the suede cloth takes some effort similar to removal of compound on the car....not smooth, some resistance. Is this your experience? I expect that the removal step is to remove the excess while allowing the remaining to fully cure, so I am checking in to make sure that I am not mistakenly removing all of the DLux because I am wiping to soon.

Thoughts? or other tricks to use of DLux on wheels?

Thanks,

David

[Just02896]

Sounds like a combination of too much product and it not flashing properly and waiting to long to level out the high spots.

[zmcgovern45]

DLUX gets tacky quickly. I would remove it much sooner than 5 minutes. Even after just a minute, it is still grabby feeling when wiping. It is not the smoothest product to work with, but it works great.

If your wheels are painted (not bare metal) and you have some traditional CQuartz or CQuartz UK you can certainly apply that to your wheels if you're having issues with DLUX.

[The Guz]

DLUX gets tacky quickly. I would remove it much sooner than 5 minutes. Even after just a minute, it is still grabby feeling when wiping. It is not the smoothest product to work with, but it works great.

If your wheels are painted (not bare metal) and you have some traditional CQuartz or CQuartz UK you can certainly apply that to your wheels if you're having issues with DLUX.

I agree with Zach. I had issues with it the first time but after I took another look at the directions and the recommended time of 1 min at 10 deg to 30 deg (50 deg F to 86 deg F) it was much easier to remove any excess.

[Rsurfer]

If applied with a suede cloth and applied thinly in small sections at a time, Dlux does not need to be knocked down. Over applying will cause problems in the final results. Ask me how I know that. LOL
Oh, and if you do over apply and have a mess on your hands..let it cure and then use Ultimate Compound to level it out. Tried so many solvents to remove Dlux, without success.

After leveling all the high spots, I used Solution Finish to darken the compounded area and top with Dlux after the SF had cured. Hope this helps for those with heavy hands, me included.


Edit: Sorry, for plastic application of Dlux.

[spewking]

Thanks. I was worried the other way...that I hadn't let it finish curing and I wiped away the product and had no protection at all!!

Thanks all for the help...

[The Guz]

I thought the same thing but the next day the wheels were slick and after the first wash I could definitely see it was there. Takes a little practice but it works very well on wheels.

[MarkD51]

5319653197

I agree with both ZMC's, and Surfer's suggestions, as I've used DLX both ways, applied, and quickly wiped, or applied and not wiped at all.

On Textured or matte Moldings and trim pieces, like on the Pebble Type Texture of my Tahoe's protective side body moldings, the Front lower Air Dam, and my Front and Rear Step Bumper's Moldings and Step Pads, I applied thinly and smoothly, working quickly, and never did a final wipe, letting the product fully dry without touching. I got magnificent results in this manner. The side moldings I don't think looked that good when they were brand new, as I am the original owner of this 20 year old SUV.

For such applications, I simply used a cheap free piece of foam that you might find protecting electronic devices. I ran into a mother lode of such a few years back at work, from computer parts from the tech guys, cut into smaller custom sized pieces, work great for applying dressings to tires, rubber protectants on weatherstrip, or in this instance Carpro CQ DLX.

Now on this piece which was always murder to clean, or keep looking good, the hardest on the entire vehicle I'd say, was this louvered windshield Wiper Cowl. The years took its toll of sun, winter, snow, salt, washings and lesser protectants. I entirely removed this 3 piece Cowl, prepped with multiple scrubbings with APC, and a paint brush, rinse repeat. I then dribbled on DLX, and quickly spread with a small 3/8" wide Artists Brush as I went from one end to the other, and of course with these difficult types of parts, and perhaps like Plastic Egg Crate or Louvered Grills, no wiping was done, just let fully dry.

The before-after results of the wiper cowl speak for themselves.

[zmcgovern45]

@MarkD51 & @Rsurfer... the OP is asking specifically about applying DLUX to wheels. DLUX should always be leveled for maximum clarity on glossy finished wheels.

Using it on trim is a little different as you have both pointed out.

[MarkD51]

@MarkD51 & @Rsurfer... the OP is asking specifically about applying DLUX to wheels. DLUX should always be leveled for maximum clarity on glossy finished wheels.

Using it on trim is a little different as you have both pointed out.

Yes, I agree with you, and it appears some of my reply was missing somehow due to some final editing.

That for smooth, glossy Plastics, and metal or painted surfaces like Headlight or Tail Light Lenses, Wheels of basically any type, DLX should probably be applied and quickly wiped in a timely fashion, just like CQuartz, or CQuartz UK.

I would probably be correct saying the biggest err, would be to apply, then come behind numerous minutes later to wipe. In that instance, and with some experience with DLX, I'd say you'll likely have an application "disaster" on your hands

[Jaddie]

Dear David

I just experienced the same thing and asked Corey Carruth (forum member CEE_DOG) of CarPro US what to do about it.

Here's what he said:


Ahhh yes, Dlux in those temps I am guessing 2 minutes is optimal. Once gummy it is difficult. The easiest option with these wheels is to airbrush them on, with a little practice it can be done nicely BUT you do have to use a but excess to get them to come out shiny instead of not smooth. Finally you may not make them look as perfect but it will be fast and they will be SUPER protected… In other words we spray on and do not wipe off but have to get a steady even spray of course.

BUT for what you are stating I would go the following route… ASSUMING you can fit any of your fingers into those ares I would get a microfiber glove and a nitrile glove. Place nitrile over finger and then MF over that. Then apply the Dlux directly to the MF glove and apply with your fingers, wipe off a couple minutes later with the same glove or one on another hand. Either leveling or just working it in evenly during application and letting it go from there

Other option is Hydro2 and no coating :(.

I took his advice and subsequent application and removal went much more quickly.

[rlmccarty2000]

Hydro2 is so much easier.

[Jaddie]

Hydro2 is so much easier.

You bet it is! How long would it take you to Hydro2 all four wheels? I bet I could do it in less than four minutes and I'm slow.

So what if it doesn't last as long as Dlux? When it's that easy to apply, just apply it every couple of weeks, right?

[spewking]

Dear David

I just experienced the same thing and asked Corey Carruth (forum member CEE_DOG) of CarPro US what to do about it.

Here's what he said:



I took his advice and subsequent application and removal went much more quickly.

Thanks much!!!