RAW Jeans // Ivory White Interior

[chefwong]

For heavy RAW jean dye transfer - or mitigating of on light colored leather, any suggestions.

I've been doing just a water wipedown on the outer bolster even though I do the ~step in, step out over the bolster~ approach....

Should I be using something with a cleaner like Cockpit Cleaner

To be frank, I've stopped using Leather Conditioner/Cleaner on cars about 8 years ago....
Mainly water wipedowns.

[FUNX650]

For heavy RAW jean dye transfer -
or mitigating of on light colored leather,
any suggestions.


To be frank, I've stopped using Leather
Conditioner/Cleaner on cars about 8 years ago....

Mainly water wipedowns.

Well "Frank"... :)

If you'd ever decide to go back to
cleaning and protecting vehicle leathers
(No Conditioners; its' Clean & Protect!)...

Then the below kit, IMO, will be one way
to re-solve your stated issues:
Leather Master Stay Bright Kit (http://www.autogeek.net/leather-master-stay-bright-kit.html)


Bob

[chefwong]

What is the definition or protect with the LM. I have LM cleaner...
I don't like adding any sort of thing to leather to change either the texture or sheen to it.....
Jean Dye rub is most. def. inevitable, hence the cleaning to keep it from staying on the topcoat too much.

Any protection, I would think, would cause either a texture or sheen change

[ViperGuy21]

Removing dye transfer from leather....

I've had great success with CG NONSENSE at ~16:1

[RaskyR1]

I've had good luck Leather Masters as long as the dye transfer isn't really bad or allowed to set up for a long time. Used regularly and new leather their Strong Cleaner followed by their Protection Cream worked excellent on my light beige leather seats. Neither of these products changes the look of the leather. You could also consider a leather coating but I'm skeptical on them as it's not like paint where you can simply polish it off if something goes wrong. They definitely help with keeping the dye transfer from setting in though.

[chefwong]

I looked at the fabric coatings...IMO, once it's on, it's on....as whatever it can/will, it will soak into the topcoat.
But I looked at it more from a liquid repellency standpoint, and not a ~dye~ transfer standpoint. Maybe I'm looking at this wrong....

I stopped using conditioners mainly due to the fact, the reality is, topcoat. ain't going to take much of anything..
If the leather is dirty to the point where I feel like it is, I will use cleaner and horsehair brush it out, followed by a very very minute application of conditioner. I'm mainly a water wipedown with leather. Sometimes Cockpit if I feel like it needs a cleaner for the wipedown.

[FUNX650]

I've stopped using Leather
Conditioner/Cleaner on cars
about 8 years ago....

Mainly water wipedowns.


I'm mainly a water wipedown with leather.

Water is the universal solvent.

Therefore:
Given enough water; coupled with the
right amount of cloth wipe-downs...
then, over time, your vehicle's leather
should no longer be soiled.


Bob

[RaskyR1]

I looked at the fabric coatings...IMO, once it's on, it's on....as whatever it can/will, it will soak into the topcoat.
But I looked at it more from a liquid repellency standpoint, and not a ~dye~ transfer standpoint. Maybe I'm looking at this wrong....

I stopped using conditioners mainly due to the fact, the reality is, topcoat. ain't going to take much of anything..
If the leather is dirty to the point where I feel like it is, I will use cleaner and horsehair brush it out, followed by a very very minute application of conditioner. I'm mainly a water wipedown with leather. Sometimes Cockpit if I feel like it needs a cleaner for the wipedown.


I agree with you on the conditioners and coated leather, however, the Protection Cream is a "protector" and not a conditioner. Think of it like more like Scotch-guard, it helps keep the stains from setting in.

CarPro's leather coating is impressive in it's ability to repel dye/ink transfer. Check out the video below if you haven't already seen it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBpDWOhCs70

[Eldorado2k]

Water is the universal solvent.

Therefore:
Given enough water; coupled with the
right amount of cloth wipe-downs...
then, over time, your vehicle's leather
should no longer be soiled.


Bob

I think this method would turn out being alot more aggressive and ineffective to boot.. Why all that unnecessary rubbing and friction when he could just cut to the chase and use a dedicated leather cleaner like Megs D181 or even Megs D101 APC@10:1 and agitate with a detailing brush [with the bristles cut down for the right amount of firmness] and be done with it.
From the sounds of it, that Cockpit Cleaner isn't cutting it. Step up the cleaner. Quik shots of steam in combination with the leather cleaner would be my next step if the cleaner alone wouldn't get it all out.

[chefwong]

Seen the coating video. Unless I'm looking at it wrong, the coatings mitigate liquid permeance but not *surface* transfer, which I'm associating with Jean Dye.

This is new car, so the post is more about mitigating it....not about trying to deal with a issue of a blue seat ;-)

I've got the Dupray Injection. Picked it up for auto work
I use it more in the house on tiles and wood flooring.
The only time I take it out for the cars is just for the doorjambs !
I've noticed that steam can do weird things to plastic. Tried it once on a steering wheel as well, seemed to have changed the leather surface texture a bit... Don't even use it for carpets. I use a extractor for that

[chefwong]

Just a final update to this thread....I suppose.
Went through the stash of stuff I have. Going to use protector on it. Not sure if it will help, but the ~man~ behind this knows leather and I suppose it's still better than nothing.

Just blurbing outloud, but if memory recalls, the ph of water is 7. Leather is 4.
I'm not saying leather conditioners are useless. And or leather products as a whole are a moot point to use on COATED leather.
On a micro/macro level, there is only so much that these products will do....

[GSKR]

I've had good luck Leather Masters as long as the dye transfer isn't really bad or allowed to set up for a long time. Used regularly and new leather their Strong Cleaner followed by their Protection Cream worked excellent on my light beige leather seats. Neither of these products changes the look of the leather. You could also consider a leather coating but I'm skeptical on them as it's not like paint where you can simply polish it off if something goes wrong. They definitely help with keeping the dye transfer from setting in though.Bought a bottle for 25.00 for a Lincoln MKZ ,didn't even make a dent.

[Mike Honcho]

Bought a bottle for 25.00 for a Lincoln MKZ ,didn't even make a dent.

What did you wind up using?

[RaskyR1]

Bought a bottle for 25.00 for a Lincoln MKZ ,didn't even make a dent.

How long had the dye transfer been on there. As I mentioned it worked for me when it wasn't really bad or allowed to set up for a long time. If it's a neglected case then I wouldn't expect it to do as much.

I'll look and see what I have for pics to show examples of the condition I'm referring too but I don't typically document interior jobs

[RaskyR1]

6 month old S4, owner wears lots of jeans.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2013%20S4%20white/20130618-DSC_0951.jpg (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/Raskyr1/media/2013%20S4%20white/20130618-DSC_0951.jpg.html)