CQuartz and Opti-coat chemical resistance.

[Rodinator]

Hello everyone this is my first post here but I'm a long time lurker. I've learned a bunch and improved my ability from this site.

I work in a cement plant we have a coal fired kiln and pet coke around and unfortunately from time to time I get industrial fallout on my paint. Usually it's clinker dust and lime when it happens. I have had no issues removing it with vinager in a pump sprayer and pressure washing. I just know vinager strips wax and I reapply something every time I have to use it. I'm really interested in coating my 2014 Mustang Cquartz or Opticoat or something else. Does anyone know if in the event I used vinager on the coated car would it strip or damage the coating? Or recommend a coating that would perform the best for me.

[MoBenzOwner]

I don't have that answer, but others will be along that will. My question is, are you diluting the vinegar or using at full strength? I would definitely use the weakest dilution that still gets the job done. In closing I would say if your car's clear coat handles it fine, it would probably not entirely strip the coating. Just my opinion.

[2011 Kona Blue]

Hello everyone this is my first post here but I'm a long time lurker. I've learned a bunch and improved my ability from this site.

I work in a cement plant we have a coal fired kiln and pet coke around and unfortunately from time to time I get industrial fallout on my paint. Usually it's clinker dust and lime when it happens. I have had no issues removing it with vinager in a pump sprayer and pressure washing. I just know vinager strips wax and I reapply something every time I have to use it. I'm really interested in coating my 2014 Mustang Cquartz or Opticoat or something else. Does anyone know if in the event I used vinager on the coated car would it strip or damage the coating? Or recommend a coating that would perform the best for me.

For removal of the industrial fall out there are great products out there to remove all that. Iron X for one. Iron X will remove the industrial fall out on the paint. Then clay the car to remove any contaminates on top of the paint.

Seal as the last step.

[Setec Astronomy]

Iron X will remove the industrial fall out on the paint.

What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.

[Rodinator]

What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.

Yes sorry I miss spoke, Gloss-Coat is what I intended to say.

As for Iron X. I have not had any success in that product removing the clinker dust and lime dust. It doesn't have any effect on it.

As for the vinegar concentration. I pressure was the car or truck no soap just let the washer do the work it will remove most of the clinker dust which is kinda like sand but it sticks to the paint when it gets wet with dew or water. Then when the vehicle is wet I mist straight vinegar onto the surface, so it's hard to say the concentration but it's not a lot as I can do several applications of one gallon on my F150, meaning one gallon last me 3-4 washes. And strangely it only effects the flat surfaces I only have to apply to the flat hood, roof and Tahoe cover. As for claying, I do not clay but I use a surface prep mitt when I bucket was. I wash my vehicles quite a bit I've been reading on here about coatings and I really like the way they look on a car. I have a DA and all kinds of cool products and pads based off people's on Autogeek reviews. I did my first paint correction per say on my Mustang and it produced a result much better than I have ever achieved before. I haven't driven it to work since then. LOL that's why I'm curious about coatings.

Thanks for the replies.

[Rodinator]

Wonder if a professionally applied product that's not available to consumers would be worth be resistant to vinegar and or the contamination settling or actually sticking to the paint? That's another question I was curious if the Cquartz or Gloss-Coat would prevent the contaminants from sticking to the paint in the first place.

[GSKR]

This may sound crazy,but if I worked in a area like that I would buy a $1500 car and not have to slave over your new mustang.

[2011 Kona Blue]

What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.

I apologize for making this comment about the clinker dust. When I heard industrial fall out I was thinking clinker dust was another term the OP was referring to rail dust, iron particles. That was my bad and sincerely apologize for the wrong information provided my me.

OP, sorry for the wrong information about the clinker dust. As far as the lime, I didn't mean too use Iron X to remove lime deposits. I don't even no what line deposits are. Lol. Again, sorry for my wrong comment. When you had said you get industrial fall out I was thinking you were referring to rail dust/iron deposits.

What is clinker dust?

[Audios S6]

What is clinker dust?

In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.

[Setec Astronomy]

What is clinker dust?

He works in a cement plant, that and the lime are components or byproducts of the cement production.


This may sound crazy,but if I worked in a area like that I would buy a $1500 car and not have to slave over your new mustang.

That doesn't sound crazy at all (to me).

[CarolinasFinestDetailing]

In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.


Dr. G talking about CQuartz products....lets face it...there would be bias on his part. Just the way it is.

To the OP, a coating is definitely a great choice to protect your vehicle. I would personally recommend CQuartz UK topped with Reload if I were looking for an over the counter option.

[Rodinator]

This may sound crazy,but if I worked in a area like that I would buy a $1500 car and not have to slave over your new mustang.

I drive my2005 F150 mostly but it's still nice. Thing is it doesn't happen all the time maybe 2-3 times a year.

[Rodinator]

In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.

That's really a great explanation. I know they say chemical resistant but that's not entirely true I suppose.

[2011 Kona Blue]

Thanks everyone for educating me. Sorry for my wrong comment and my misunderstanding!

[Audios S6]

Dr. G talking about CQuartz products....lets face it...there would be bias on his part. Just the way it is.

To the OP, a coating is definitely a great choice to protect your vehicle. I would personally recommend CQuartz UK topped with Reload if I were looking for an over the counter option.

Bias perhaps, but I think Dr. G's intent was to point out the weakness of SiO2 based products and leverage it in marketing OC. I'd go so far as to say it would be foolish to make such a claim that wasn't credible when any SiO2 brand could refute it if the chemistry was bunk.

Do you put your suedes in an alkaline APC to prevent them from crystallizing as Carpro suggests?