Has anyone worked on a Honda Pilot circa 2008-2009? Need Wheel help.

[emmjay]

I have a honda Pilot that I will be working on the coming long weekend.

I would like to know how I can polish the rims (see pics below taken from google). The rims are fairly dull and filthy and I would like to get their shine back.

I don't have any tools such as mothers cone, meguiars cone and such. All I have is Megs NXT metal polish, UC, UP, M205, Flex and hybrids. I also have polishing pals and easy grip pads.

Any inputs? Not looking for crazy bling bling. Only looking to clean up the dull look.

Thanks :)

Here is a thread with the identical car (mine will be blue) - https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/55887-honda-pilot.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Honda-Pilot-2009-White-SUV-EX-L-Gasoline-6-Cylinders-4-Wheel-Drive-Automatic-28557-4.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/108628/title/1/cat/500)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/honda-pilot-rims-63992-b.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/108629/title/2/cat/500)

[Mantilgh]

I've used Optimum Compound II on a wheel of my sisters Honda with a CarPro Flash pad. I think was able to get most of an orange LC flat pad on the sides of the spokes and the curved rim section between the spokes.

52043

52044

That was a pretty aggressive combo, but they were really messed up and had been cleaned with a pot scrubber.

Try UP, then UC if that doesn't cut it.

[emmjay]

I've used Optimum Compound II on a wheel of my sisters Honda with a CarPro Flash pad. I think was able to get most of an orange LC flat pad on the sides of the spokes and the curved rim section between the spokes.

52043

52044

That was a pretty aggressive combo, but they were really messed up and had been cleaned with a pot scrubber.

Try UP, then UC if that doesn't cut it.

Thanks man! I take it its better to work by hand yeah?

[Mantilgh]

Luckily I was able to get to most of it by machine, all except the corners and in between the spokes. For the triangle holes I was able to get enough of the pad in on that area with my Rupes Duetto.

[emmjay]

Luckily I was able to get to most of it by machine, all except the corners and in between the spokes. For the triangle holes I was able to get enough of the pad in on that area with my Rupes Duetto.

Ahh alright , thank you!

Just a follow up: Is it okay to apply a sealant such as Menzerna Powerlock on wheels to make cleaning easier? I don't really have any wheel coatings.

[richy]

Ahh alright , thank you!

Just a follow up: Is it okay to apply a sealant such as Menzerna Powerlock on wheels to make cleaning easier? I don't really have any wheel coatings.

That will work fine as almost any wax or sealant. The stronger the product, the better durability you'll get.

I replied to your comment on my thread too BTW.

[emmjay]

That will work fine as almost any wax or sealant. The stronger the product, the better durability you'll get.

I replied to your comment on my thread too BTW.

Thank you Richy! :)

[AZpolisher15]

I believe those are clear coated wheels? If so, you can treat them just like paint (i.e. don't use the metal polish). Don't expect mind blowing longevity, but any sealant will work and give you pleasing results if the wheels aren't hammered to begin with. I like working my cc'd wheels by hand just so I'm not fighting a polisher. If it were mine, I'd clean them up with soap and a tire brush, wheel cleaner if necessary. Then UC/UP (whichever seems prudent) followed by the sealant. Tip: WOWA sealants are nice for cc'd wheels (if you don't have a dedicated product already). Longevity isn't the best, but it's so quick and easy that it's a nice solution in a pinch. Mine are going on 2 weeks with UPGP and still beading nicely.

[emmjay]

I believe those are clear coated wheels? If so, you can treat them just like paint (i.e. don't use the metal polish). Don't expect mind blowing longevity, but any sealant will work and give you pleasing results if the wheels aren't hammered to begin with. I like working my cc'd wheels by hand just so I'm not fighting a polisher. If it were mine, I'd clean them up with soap and a tire brush, wheel cleaner if necessary. Then UC/UP (whichever seems prudent) followed by the sealant. Tip: WOWA sealants are nice for cc'd wheels (if you don't have a dedicated product already). Longevity isn't the best, but it's so quick and easy that it's a nice solution in a pinch. Mine are going on 2 weeks with UPGP and still beading nicely.

Thanks a lot for the reply and for pointing out not to use the NXT metal polish and saving my a**. Could you school me on why that is a bad idea just for knowledge purposes? And if possible what is NXT metal polish used for?

And thank you for the steps as well :) At the moment I dont have a WOWA type sealant (hydro 2 and such im guessing?). So I would have to use a proper sealant.

[AZpolisher15]

Thanks a lot for the reply and for pointing out not to use the NXT metal polish and saving my a**. Could you school me on why that is a bad idea just for knowledge purposes? And if possible what is NXT metal polish used for?

And thank you for the steps as well :) At the moment I dont have a WOWA type sealant (hydro 2 and such im guessing?). So I would have to use a proper sealant.
Being a metal polish, I'm inclined to believe that it would/could be too harsh of a product for clear coat. Metal polishes are typically intended for cleaning/abraiding bare metal/rust. As such, you can imagine how much more abrasive these products can be. For example-- think of trying to buff/abraid tiny rust spots off of a shiny tail pipe. Some wheels are also uncoated (non-clear coated) metal, as well. Then there is "real" chrome (not the plastic faux-chrome we often see now days).

WOWA sealants (wipe on-walk away): blackfire crystal seal, opti-seal, Ultima paint guard plus... These are examples. You simply spritz your applicator, wipe a pass on the surface and then you're done. No buffing product off. They're just a super concentrated paint sealant that flashes off the surface really quickly. I mentioned them simply because on wheels, they're convenient because of all the little crevices and indentations and curves. You don't end up with dried product stuck in all the little places you can't reach. A more traditional sealant -might- give you better longevity anyway (ex. PL as you mentioned).

If you look really closely-- you may see little spots here and there where the cc is chipped off. It's pretty common on cc'd wheels to see this. It's often seen where previous balance weights have been removed.

[emmjay]

Being a metal polish, I'm inclined to believe that it would/could be too harsh of a product for clear coat. Metal polishes are typically intended for cleaning/abraiding bare metal/rust. As such, you can imagine how much more abrasive these products can be. For example-- think of trying to buff/abraid tiny rust spots off of a shiny tail pipe. Some wheels are also uncoated (non-clear coated) metal, as well. Then there is "real" chrome (not the plastic faux-chrome we often see now days).

WOWA sealants (wipe on-walk away): blackfire crystal seal, opti-seal, Ultima paint guard plus... These are examples. You simply spritz your applicator, wipe a pass on the surface and then you're done. No buffing product off. They're just a super concentrated paint sealant that flashes off the surface really quickly. I mentioned them simply because on wheels, they're convenient because of all the little crevices and indentations and curves. You don't end up with dried product stuck in all the little places you can't reach. A more traditional sealant -might- give you better longevity anyway (ex. PL as you mentioned).

If you look really closely-- you may see little spots here and there where the cc is chipped off. It's pretty common on cc'd wheels to see this. It's often seen where previous balance weights have been removed.

Thanks a lot for the detailed reply! It clears up quite a bit :)