Hard as rocks GM clear

[Justin at Final Inspection]

Now most seasoned professional detailers know that Corvettes typically have what`s known as harder clear coat. I have done my fair share of Corvettes without much issue correcting defects.

However the new GM`s I have done lately have been a bear to correct. Case in point a 2015 Escalade ESV in black that I just finished up. Now normally my go to is my g21 with a BOSS microfiber cutting pad and fast correcting cream. I did a couple test spots and got good results with this combo.

But as I progressed with the correction I noticed a lot of RIDS remaining. So much so that it really bothered me. Long story short i through everything but the kitchen sink at this point to try to correct it. Maybe I am just OCD especially when i have a 90k vehicle in my bay but I hate having what appears to be just light scratches that would normally correct without issues fight me to the death!!!

My rotary pairs with a LC PFW and fg400 got it better but the only thing that truly got it was damp sanding with 3000 grit. I could of got carried away but just did a few areas to get it better. Even the 3000 grit marks were tough to get out.

I got the vehicle finished up and looking good but in my head I know it could be better.

So what is everyone using against the new hard GM clear coat to correct defects. It seems my rotary may be getting some more use if that`s the case lol!!!

[oneheadlite]

Thank you for making me feel better! This weekend helped a friend with a metallic black ~15 GMC 2500. I used the correcting cream (most aggressive I had on hand) on a BOSS microfiber pad and was working to persuade shallow automatic car wash marks out.
Unfortunately, as stated that's the most aggressive combo I have, so I'll let others chime in with their methods.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I had the same experience with new 2016 Stingray, there was one small scratch on the hood, I used White BOSS and Fast Correcting Cream.

It was tough as nails. I got to 90% correction and conceded. I could have gone BOSS MF and Meg's 105, but opted on the conservative side and let CQUK fill it in. Owner was thrilled.

Comes a point when one has to draw a line vs risk.

[GSKR]

Now most seasoned professional detailers know that Corvettes typically have what`s known as harder clear coat. I have done my fair share of Corvettes without much issue correcting defects.

However the new GM`s I have done lately have been a bear to correct. Case in point a 2015 Escalade ESV in black that I just finished up. Now normally my go to is my g21 with a BOSS microfiber cutting pad and fast correcting cream. I did a couple test spots and got good results with this combo.

But as I progressed with the correction I noticed a lot of RIDS remaining. So much so that it really bothered me. Long story short i through everything but the kitchen sink at this point to try to correct it. Maybe I am just OCD especially when i have a 90k vehicle in my bay but I hate having what appears to be just light scratches that would normally correct without issues fight me to the death!!!

My rotary pairs with a LC PFW and fg400 got it better but the only thing that truly got it was damp sanding with 3000 grit. I could of got carried away but just did a few areas to get it better. Even the 3000 grit marks were tough to get out.

I got the vehicle finished up and looking good but in my head I know it could be better.

So what is everyone using against the new hard GM clear coat to correct defects. It seems my rotary may be getting some more use if that`s the case lol!!!Gliptone products.My van is stacked with products,if one deosnt work i grab another and try again .Although I have every product from ag,I also carry professional hardcore products as well.

[Setec Astronomy]

Wow, interesting...GM always had a reputation for hard clear, especially 'Vettes, but it sounds like they've upped the ante.

[Billy Baldone]

I had an SRX a month ago, my wining combo was Boss, microfiber pad, and Flat Top.

[Justin at Final Inspection]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The customer left happy so that's all that matters. Just was a bit taken back by how tough this one was lol

Before

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/camaro00/IMG_20160821_093941428_HDR_zpss4k6obgb.jpg (http://s56.photobucket.com/user/camaro00/media/IMG_20160821_093941428_HDR_zpss4k6obgb.jpg.html)

After


http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/camaro00/IMG_20160822_170827061_zpsn3fsedkx.jpg (http://s56.photobucket.com/user/camaro00/media/IMG_20160822_170827061_zpsn3fsedkx.jpg.html)

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g173/camaro00/IMG_20160822_170802498_zpstfnnfevh.jpg (http://s56.photobucket.com/user/camaro00/media/IMG_20160822_170802498_zpstfnnfevh.jpg.html)

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I usually go for M101 with a wool pad on a rotary for paint like that. Off label use for that compound but short of wet sanding, I don't think there's anything more aggressive on the market.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[shadwell]

I can feel your pain..
Had the same scenario on Mercedes Single stage white which in my wisdom decided needed wet sanding for orange peel... ?!?
After 2k paper and 3k paper, I ended up going rotary, purple foamed wool and some SMAT cutting compund (by Juice in Oz..)..

This left very light marring so then it was same set up with Scholl S3 .. then i hit Scholl blue spider foam pad with S3 then the same with s20 on DA.. and finally jewelled with Reflect on the rotary..... it was a rediculously long process...

They key thing I learned in this one was NOT to use DAT compound at the begining of the cut because they break down so fast that they all but loose their cut long before you have achieved the correction step you are looking for..

All the best...