Pads, pads and more pads...which and why?

[BudgetPlan1]

So many types of pads, from Lake Country alone. With regards to foam pads, do the different designs/styles really make that much of a difference? Having mostly used the flat pads, am I missing out by not expanding into the other styles? For a GG6 DA...


Is it all a matter of personal preference/habit? What's your 'go to' pad and why? Do you keep a certain type of pad in mind for specific applications?


Lake Country HD Orbital Foam Pads - Got it; designed for long throw DA's
Lake Country Hybrid Power Finish Ultra Performance Pads - Dense...more cut, less forgiving due to more 'solid' pad?
Lake Country CCS Pads - Absorb less polish due to CCS and 'pockets' to release as needed? Not so great for AIO application?
Lake Country Flat Pads - General use, all=purpose pads?
Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System - generaly same as Flat Pads but thinner, less mass for better spinning on non-forced rotation DA's?
Lake Country Hydro-Tech Foam Pads - For use onyl with water-based polishes/compounds, less absorbtion of polish/compound?
Lake Country Kompressor Foam Pads - Better for countours but perhaps less cutting ability?
Lake Country Smart Pads™ Professional Foam Pads - Dense, for harder paints?
Lake Country Waffle Pro Foam Pads - Run cooler, less cutting ability?


In the 'general' category the Thin Pro seem to be getting the most press lately...


Thanks for any input...

[KBsToy]

For your GG6 I would get a 5" backing plate and use the thin / low profile. I have used the HD Foam pads on my 15mm. As a hobbyist this is what I have use on detailing our vehicles....

[Paul A.]

I try to keep it simple and use pad types depending on the machine i'm using. With my DA it is now ALWAYS Thin Pro's. I like the concept of it working less mass and getting the most spin and oscillation from the machine to keep it working the paint effectively. With my Flex 3401 and rotary i use the LC Hybrid pads. The direct drive of those machines can work thicker pads well and i then play with machine speeds and pressure a little more depending on whether i'm cutting or refining. I do like to compress the pad when trying to persuade some deeper defects and then lighten up for finish passes.

I use flat pads only for foams. I have tried several of the different foam face variations e.g. CCS, cross cut, Kompresser etc and have come all the way back to flat faced foam pads. I want the foam and density selected to work 100% of the time.

If i solely worked with a GG DA i would probably opt for a large number and assortment of LC Thin Pro's and some MF pads. Just my opinion and contribution to your questions.

[AJS]

any go to pad reccomendations for a Pc 7242xp?

[BudgetPlan1]

Pretty much full up on the regular LC 5.5" flat pads w the 5" backing plate. Have a set of Thin Pros to try next week.

Just like music formats...put together a nice vinyl album collection, CD's arrive on the scene. Build again with CD's, mp3 becomes the thing.

Guess I'll replace regular LC flats with Thin Pros going forward but flats still work fine so no need for wholesale change.

Mostly just curious as to how/why/if folks used the variations.

Thanks:thumbup:

[Mike@ShineStruck]

If GG 6 def go with the thinpros
Same for the PC

[asap2stacks]

any go to pad reccomendations for a Pc 7242xp?

Buff and shine 5.5inch flat pads work great for the 7242.

[dlc95]

These are the only sets of foam pads I currently use on my PC machines.

The Hex cut pads are made by Buff and Shine for another vendor (which I no longer buy from), These foams pretty much do everything I need from heavy cutting with the green, to finish polishing with the blue, and sealing with the red. Though the green pad isn't recommended to "cut" with, it remains one of my favorites, and it's proven itself to me.

The flat stack of pads are Lake Country Hydrotech. Where my Buff and Shine blue and green foams are open cell, and softer, the Hydrotech are closed cell, and more rigid.

The Hydrotech pads keep the polish trapped between the foam and the paint, so that it can work it's magic. My open cell foams use their open pores to cut into the paint, once the abrasives have been "attached" to the cell structures. Because these pads are so porous I find that the polishes tend to stay on the surface.

Bear in mind that my technique is highly unorthodox. I don't use any more pressure than the weight of the machine when polishing, and I don't "season" the pad with product.

Aside from those pads, I also like the Lake Country CCS, but don't use them as often. I also use the Rupes pads with my Rupes tools.

[dlc95]

The pic I forgot to post..

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Anyone tried the LC pink pads? I've read they cut pretty darned good for not being touted as that.

[dlc95]

Anyone tried the LC pink pads? I've read they cut pretty darned good for not being touted as that.

For sure, Mark! Very similar to the green Buff and Shine.

[BudgetPlan1]

As an addendum to original question, does pad choice make a significant difference when using SMAT or DAT polishes/compounds? Given the DAT characteristics of some polishes, it seems the dimpled CSS pads would not lend themselves to DAT products?

Thoughts?

[WRAPT C5Z06]

As an addendum to original question, does pad choice make a significant difference when using SMAT or DAT polishes/compounds? Given the DAT characteristics of some polishes, it seems the dimpled CSS pads would not lend themselves to DAT products?

Thoughts?
Doesn't matter. Although, I wouldn't use CCS pads ever. :)

[PaulMys]

Doesn't matter. Although, I wouldn't use CCS pads ever. :)

Care to elaborate, WRAPT?

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Care to elaborate, WRAPT?
I'd much rather use a flat pad as I feel the dimples do any good.