Taking delivery of New Truck / Prep questions

[GOTURBACK]

Mike,
I have a new vehicle prep question for you, I am waiting to pick up my new Chevy Colorado Z71 (Red Rock Metallic) ordered from the factory 8/2, I have instructed the dealer that I do not want any exterior prep done including leaving the protective covering intact upon delivery.
I wanted to ask what process or product I should use to remove any adhesive residue from the vehicle after pulling the protective plastic covering off? I also wanted to verify that I should use iron X, then wash, then clay and wash again? Before sealant and wax. I welcome product reccomendations that will enhance the Red Rock Metallic color best, and offer the best winter protection. I have thought about a coating but I do not feel comfortable applying it. I want to get it (protected from) ready for the harsh salted roads in the northeast. Thinking about some clear bra application too. Thank You

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Hi, welcome to AutoGeekOnline! Congrats on the new truck! You did the right thing by instructing the dealer not to touch it while in there possession.

As far as removing the plastic covering adhesive that may be left behind upon removal, I would use the 3M adhesive remover. This stuff rocks for removing that glue. Chances are the glue that holds the plastic covering on the vehicle is by 3M.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, bug and tar remover, adhesive remover, decal remover, tree sap remover (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-adhesive-cleaner.html)

Here is a guide written by Mike on how to detail a brand new vehicle.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html

I would also take notes from this one as well.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html

I would go with the Wolfgang line of products for your new Colorado. Everything that is needed to protect and beautify the paint can be found in the lineup. To take it to the extreme in terms of looks you can put a layer of Wolfgang Fuzion over the Sealant if you so wish. There was also a new Fuzion spray wax that was just launched that will help maintain the paint later on down the road.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/74198-wolfgang-four.html

Do you have a machine and pads?

[GOTURBACK]

No machine I was planning on applying sealant and wax by hand, I have some (new) foam applicator pads that I had ordered from auto geek previously but may order some more when placing my order for the other products (foam gun, chenille wash mints, guzzlers, sealant, wax etc. I do not have alot of experience with this detailing stuff it will be my first new truck.

* Should I be concerned with using the 3M product on my truck it is being assembled right now, the product states it is safe on fully cured paint only.

Chris

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I would pick up a machine and pads to help out with the job. There is only so much you can do by hand.

You can get started on factory cured paint the day you bring the truck home. Nothing to worry about with factory paint. Its when its re painted that you have to be cautious on how and when you work with the paint.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

Agree with Mike.

Look at this thread where we just detailed a brand new sliverado. Contains products used.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/103988-lsn-autodetailing-2017-chevy-silverado-new-car-prep-detail.html

Congrats and good luck with your new truck!

[GOTURBACK]

I do not feel confident putting a machine to it being that I have zero experience using one, I am hoping to get it as good as I can by hand, what do you think about using the nanoskin fine grade microfiber instead of claying it?

[Ancient1]

If it were me I would do the decon and wash like you said and then do a fine machine polish topped with WG Uber coating after a wipe down or an Essence application with a gloss pad. With Uber the application as about as easy as any sealant and the only problem I can see is using too much product at first. but with good lighting it shouldn't be a problem. Even using too much the only down side is you wasted some product but it still just as easy to level and buff. I have found it quite forgiving of user error and would recommend to anyone who has waxed or sealed a car before.

On my car I have Uber on the whole exterior except the tires and exhaust tips. For the interior I really like WG cockpit and trim sealant even tho it does have a chemical smell to which after application dissipates fairly quickly I prefer it to the sweeter smelling products and it has good longevity.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I do not feel confident putting a machine to it being that I have zero experience using one, I am hoping to get it as good as I can by hand, what do you think about using the nanoskin fine grade microfiber instead of claying it?

Either way, pick up a machine and pads along with a scrap panel from a junk yard or work on perhaps a beater and get some seat time behind the machine. This way you can get going with machine polishing and build up your skill and remove the fear of polishing paint. Push yourself to remove as many defects as possible from the panel. After getting a good feel for machine polishing you can then move onto your new truck.

Machine polishing via DA.
Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate, (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html)

I haven't used the microfiber towel but do use the small hand sponge and the clay discs by machine. They both work equally well and removes the thought if it is dropped on the floor it must be thrown away. With these guys, simply rinse it off well with water and get back to work.

Go with the flow.
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides (http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html)

[VISITOR]

I do not feel confident putting a machine to it being that I have zero experience using one, I am hoping to get it as good as I can by hand, what do you think about using the nanoskin fine grade microfiber instead of claying it?

with the DA (pick up a GG6, you won't regret it) you'll be hard pressed to due any damage and you will get the hang of it within an hour (or sooner) and now is the time to start. doing things by hand will be tiresome and the results will be mediocre/uneven compared to a machine which you let do all the work. trust me, you'll wonder why you didn't start sooner. here's a great video to start and i believe he is a member on here as well...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm62usnRycU

[MarkD51]

I do not feel confident putting a machine to it being that I have zero experience using one, I am hoping to get it as good as I can by hand, what do you think about using the nanoskin fine grade microfiber instead of claying it?

I think you will be fine at this point without the need of a machine just yet. One would assume the paint should be in pristine shape. Do the least amount of harm, and sort of agree to do the least toying with the paint initially. You may find just a good sealant might remove any adhesive residues without the need to resort to any solvent type products. I'd try the least aggressive methods first.

A product like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is a really good product to try.

Swirling usually occurs from washing, so use good techniques, and have good tools, towels, etc on hand. Grit Guards help in the buckets.

I've not had great luck with nanoskin, but that was the sponges, and find clay still superior. The Pinnacle Blue Poly Clay is a excellent very mild clay.

I say enjoy your truck for now, get some protection on it. I would perhaps consider a Iron Remover such as Carpro Iron-X in time. Not sure how your truck will be shipped, but often they can come by rail, and there may be rail dust present on some of the unprotected panels?

As for any plastic trim, the more durable products such as Carpro CQuartz DLX would be my own personal first pick.

In time you'll probably want a DA Machine, pads, etc. Study up, watch some of the vids here by Mike Phillips, or you can even find them on youtube by simply searching his name.

Wish you the best of luck on your upcoming purchase.

[MarkD51]

Whenever I bought a new vehicle, my first priorities were to usually undo any dealer induced issues, and sometimes there can be many. Such as stains of various types already on carpeting as being one. Good Floor Mats surely help. Often with Utility Type Vehicles like Pickup Trucks, or SUVs that I've owned over the years, good protection for carpets and cargo areas can be costly if you want the best to be had.

In some instances, I've gone the makeshift route, and visited places like Carpet Businesses and bought roll ends of industrial type commercial carpeting. This stuff can wear like iron, some types are already foam backed, and do provide a good degree of resistance to water penetration and seep through.

I'd make a pattern from cardboard or paper, trace onto the carpeting with chaulk, and cut with heavy duty scissors for a perfect custom fit. One might find a compatible color choice, that both protects and also looks pretty nice as well.

As for undercarriage protection, that's a difficult one, and I've found products such as Bare Bones to often be nothing more than a dirt-dust attractant that does not last long. In climates where salt is used on the roads in winter, there's really virtually nothing that will protect hardware that comes in a spray.