Rupes mark ii 15 stalling badly

[Jomax]

I have a hard time grasping these issues, I have the original Rupes 21 and other then weird curved panels it doesn't stop.

On speed 4.5 I can put a ton of pressure and it will just keep spinning.

I'm going out on a limb that the machine has an issue.



Best bet might be to find a detailer in your area that uses Rupes polishers. Bring your polisher for him to try it out. Maybe even a fellow Autogeek might be in your area that has experience using a Rupes polisher.,

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

That's really weird, I've heard people complain about these machines stalling on curves, but never a flat panel like you describe. I have a legacy Rupes 15 with a washer mod and I can use anywhere and everywhere without stalling at speed 4 and above. What speed are you using? Perhaps you do truly have a defective machine. Maybe Dylan will see this thread and chime in.

Can you post a video of what's happening for you?

[Dylan@RUPES]

Don,

Just replied to your email with Jason Rose in copy - best thing at this point rather than speculating about what is causing the issue is to see you working with it. If possible get a short cell phone video and send it over to us - sometimes its something really simple that we're just not thinking of.

For everyone else - lets not turn this into a Flex v. BigFoot debate - he didn't come here asking people to critique his purchase, he asked for advice on the tool he has and he has received it. If we want to turn it into a polisher pi$$ing contest I'll happily challenge anyone to a correction contest with the tool of their choice. Some of the statements made here are flat out false and/or uninformed - but thats for another thread, and not one where someone is asking for assistance.

Back on topic - I shared an anecdotal situation with Don in my reply - we challenged someone to stall a 15 Mark II at Detail Fest on our Fiat demo hood. They put their full weight on the tool, off angle, and at max speed rotation continued... to the point the pad smoked, he cooked the compound (broke the emulsion) and left a nice brown stain on the Fiats paint. Its quite difficult to stall out the Mark II on brute force, it takes a pretty deep curve or hard edge and even then its still polishing. Rotation is only part of the equation... that 15mm stroke still gets a lot done.

[rlmccarty2000]

Glad to see the OP is getting the help he needs. As always, Rupes is a first class organization and comes to the assistance of Rupes owners when necessary. This is one of the many reasons I continue to support Rupes.

[runrun411]

I can definitely understand people's frustration with the pad rotation issues. The whole thing can be solved in two ways:

1) Practice, practice, practice
2) Use the right tool for the particular job.

No matter how good you learn to operate a Rupes, you may still need to have another machine that may be better suited for some curves and contours.

[Zubair]

I can definitely understand people's frustration with the pad rotation issues. The whole thing can be solved in two ways:

1) Practice, practice, practice
2) Use the right tool for the particular job.

No matter how good you learn to operate a Rupes, you may still need to have another machine that may be better suited for some curves and contours.

I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.

[Rsurfer]

I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.

Interesting comment. I use a Mini/PE-14 on tight areas and have never tried to correct with orbit on a long throw.

[custmsprty]

I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.

Amen! :dblthumb2:

[custmsprty]

or... Buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.

booooooooooooooooo hissssssssssssss

Not too mention Flex cloning a long throw machine LOL.

Guess Rupes was eating into their market share and they felt compelled to respond with a knock off.

[scuff]

booooooooooooooooo hissssssssssssss

Not too mention Flex cloning a long throw machine LOL.

Guess Rupes was eating into their market share and they felt compelled to respond with a knock off.

crazy talk

All the Europeans are producing knockoffs (REMOVED OUTSIDE LINK, PLEASE REVIEW TERMS/CONDITIONS IN FAQ ON TOOLBAR)

[Mike Phillips]

This is on page 2 of Mike Phillips' how to book for the Rupes polishing system.



Here's a full size picture of that statement in my RUPES how-to book and if I wrote it I definitely mean it.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/11_Tips_for_using_The_RUPES_Paint_Polishing_System _02.jpg

The RUPES orbital polishers are simply different than traditional orbital polishers and a person new to RUPES that has been using other tools simply needs to spend some time behind the tool to get a feel for working with it.

Once you get good with the RUPES orbital polishers you can make them dance on paint.

Like this,


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101139

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101140


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101141

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101142




Buffing curved panels with NEW RUPES Mark II BigFoot 21 & 15 Polishers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/96143-buffing-curved-panels-new-rupes-mark-ii-bigfoot-21-15-polishers.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=101200











I was frustrated as heck with that thing. Like I said, I kept going back to the Porter Cable.

But I dedicated some time when I wasn't on the job to acquainting myself with it. It paid off because the results have been better than I would have imagined.




As I like to say,

"You need to put some time behind the tool"



:dblthumb2:

[Justin at Final Inspection]

Sorry to hear about your frustration with the new Mark ll. Nice to see people chiming in trying to help. Also props for Rupes responding to your email and trying to get your issue addressed.

I added a 21mm long throw to my aresnal of polishers last year. Before I bought it my 3401 and rotary were my go to tools. I will say even with my experience it took a bit getting used to. But like everyone else said once you do you will be glad you stuck with it. I think Zubair said that a 21 will correct on orbit alone which I have to believe. I run mine with a washer mod and it's a beast. I think Rupes is correct on you getting a video of yourself using the machine so they/us can try to get you back on track.

Good luck and post some finished shots of the M3 when done!

[Mike Phillips]

I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects,

8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.




I wold have to respectfully disagree.

In my opinion and experience, in order for any orbital polisher to remove defects it must remove paint and paint is removed most effectively if the pad is BOTH rotating and oscillating.

I don't think an orbital tool can remove paint if the pad is ONLY oscillating because this would basically be the pad vibrating against the paint. It's the combination of rotation and oscillation that removes paint. I'm open to changing my mind if someone can take a car with swirls and scratches and remove them using only oscillation and zero pad rotation.

Even if it worled.... which I don't think it will.... it would take a LOT longer to correct a car than it would if the pad is both rotating and oscillating.


:dunno:

[runrun411]

I wold have to respectfully disagree.

In my opinion and experience, in order for any orbital polisher to remove defects it must remove paint and paint is removed most effectively if the pad is BOTH rotating and oscillating.

I don't think an orbital tool can remove paint if the pad is ONLY oscillating because this would basically be the pad vibrating against the paint. It's the combination of rotation and oscillation that removes paint. I'm open to changing my mind if someone can take a car with swirls and scratches and remove them using only oscillation and zero pad rotation.

Even if it worled.... which I don't think it will.... it would take a LOT longer to correct a car than it would if the pad is both rotating and oscillating.


:dunno:

I agree. I don't think 15mm or even 21mm is enough movement to efficiently correct paint.

[Zubair]

I wold have to respectfully disagree.

In my opinion and experience, in order for any orbital polisher to remove defects it must remove paint and paint is removed most effectively if the pad is BOTH rotating and oscillating.

I don't think an orbital tool can remove paint if the pad is ONLY oscillating because this would basically be the pad vibrating against the paint. It's the combination of rotation and oscillation that removes paint. I'm open to changing my mind if someone can take a car with swirls and scratches and remove them using only oscillation and zero pad rotation.

Even if it worled.... which I don't think it will.... it would take a LOT longer to correct a car than it would if the pad is both rotating and oscillating.


:dunno:

I removed swirls on a Ferrari California rear fender which has hectic curves using my 15ES which was orbiting only. I removed swirls on an F30 Bmw bonnet which curves aggressively at the sides with orbit only, backing plate is marked so I know there wasn't rotation. Those are the two that come to mind where I paid particular attention. I've gotten so accustomed to my Rupes correcting under any condition that I don't pay attention to rotation anymore. I have done a dozen or more side by sides using both my 15ES and 3401 and my Rupes always corrects faster. I won't even compare my 3401 to my 21 MKII in speed of correction as its no contest. The Rupes doesn't vibrate or need pressure thus easier on my body, doesn't tire me out. I enjoy the Flex 3401 no doubt but it feels like an antique compared to the long throw technology polishers. My Flex PE-14 is a gem and thus far is a demon as far as correction speeds are concerned. Were I to buy another Flex it would be a PE-14 not the 3401. But right now I'm so impressed with Rupes I will order a 15 MKII.