Dr. ColorChip blending solution

[98LowRanger]

Just was wondering if anyone used Dr. ColorChip blending solution that removes excess paint, but leaves it in the lower spots (chips) with non-Dr. ColorChip paint. Reason I ask is because I have a spot on a customer's car with many very small chips. The Dr. ColorChip method would work perfectly only I am smearing Duplicolor paint over the spot and using the Dr. ColorChip blending solution to hopefully remove the excess paint around the tiny chips. Anyone try this? I would assume all the blending solution is mainly a paint thinner. I have no time to order the Dr. ColorChip paint which is why I am considering this.

[Audios S6]

I've done it with lacquer clearcoat from Wurth before, but never duplicolor.

[DaveT435]

You'll want to add some mineral spirits to it. It will help remove the paint faster. This info came from Dr. Colorchip to remove their product more effectively.

[98LowRanger]

I've done it with lacquer clearcoat from Wurth before, but never duplicolor.

Hmmmm....did you have good results with the blending solution removing the excess clear?

[Jomak]

You'll want to add some mineral spirits to it. It will help remove the paint faster. This info came from Dr. Colorchip to remove their product more effectively.

Hmm, what about pure Naptha?

[98LowRanger]

Anyone else try the blending solution on touch up paint besides Dr. ColorChips?

[builthatch]

Anyone else try the blending solution on touch up paint besides Dr. ColorChips?

in the video with Mike Phillips, the dude from Dr. Colorchip specifically says SealAct won't work with other touch up paints.

but then there is someone on this forum that used it on some old non-Dr. Colorchip touch up repairs and said it leveled them to a degree.

[SirTanon]

So here is the question then. What can I use as a leveling liquid for standard touch-up paint on my Ford Fusion, for example?

[MarkD51]

So here is the question then. What can I use as a leveling liquid for standard touch-up paint on my Ford Fusion, for example?

Dr. C-Chip Sealact Solution works extremely slow and not very effective if at all on leveling factory type or Duplicolor type Touch Up Paints. I have tried it on a custom Cal Vue Mirror on my Tahoe that was touched up years prior with Duplicolor Paint, and while it did somewhat work, I sure used a lot of elbow grease, and a lot of Sealact product.

But what might work better, is a 1-2 punch combination of Langka, and then Sealact after.

Langka Blob Remover is designed to work with Factory Touch Up type Paints.

I myself tried Langka many years ago, and to me, it was a very "touchy" product with rarely achieving desired results. As 1 or 2 swipes too many with the product would then remove too much, or all of the touch up paint from the repair area.

But still, it might be a worthy product to have on hand to try to use it as I mention above, or to remove previous poor attempts that you, or someone else has done with touch up repair.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

To the OP, I would highly consider using the Dr. Colorchip system as an offering. Contact them about the partner program for detailers. It's what I use on all customers vehicles. I just took care of some rear bumper rash on a vehic today using the squeegee method. Came out great...
The shipping is pretty quick, however, I just did a 2012 Mustang and the customer asked the day before if the could get the rock chip repair. He paid the over-night shipping.

This Merc was peppered:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/103588-lsn-autodetailing-2007-merc-e350-w-rock-chip-repairl.html

Bumper cover torn up by sheet metal on highway:
Slide Show (http://photos.looks-so-new-autodetailing.com/FullScreenSlideShow.aspx?gallery=4698021&mt=Photo)

Road Rash fix:
Slide Show (http://photos.looks-so-new-autodetailing.com/FullScreenSlideShow.aspx?gallery=4698024&mt=Photo)

Another road rash hood taken care of (several pictures deep into photo album):
Slide Show (http://photos.looks-so-new-autodetailing.com/FullScreenSlideShow.aspx?gallery=4691573&mt=Photo)

[AuroraDetailing]

I'm planning on getting the commercial kit here really soon, and kind of wanting to get near full time with it and not so much the detailing portion, but would still offer it to detail customers. But just wondering at what point do you do the chip repair? The blending solution would almost certainly remove any LSP (the sales rep told me it was great for getting tar and sap off as a side effect) and it was recommended not to be detailed for 7 days after application. Do you do the full detail, leave off the LSP, do the chip repair, then do the LSP?

[builthatch]

I'm planning on getting the commercial kit here really soon, and kind of wanting to get near full time with it and not so much the detailing portion, but would still offer it to detail customers. But just wondering at what point do you do the chip repair? The blending solution would almost certainly remove any LSP (the sales rep told me it was great for getting tar and sap off as a side effect) and it was recommended not to be detailed for 7 days after application. Do you do the full detail, leave off the LSP, do the chip repair, then do the LSP?

in the vid with the DRCC guy and Mike P., they said you'd do it as the last step of a detail except coating or LSP, at least in those areas, since obv you want to keep the area free of anything that might inhibit the new paint from "sticking" in the chip and also you do want to wait for the filled paint to fully do its thing re: curing.

for my personal test vehicle for this product, since the truck is already coated and stuff, i'll wash the thing, just correct the chipped areas to level any sharp edges, etc. wipe down with prep solvent and do the repair over the course of several layers to try to get it as level as possible. in a week or so, i'll re-coat those areas.