New to Detailing: Advice needed.

[Estroil]

Hi guys!

I've been lurking on these forums for some weeks now and I am really impressed with this community.

I am extremely new to the detailing world. The only thing I have experience with is washing my car simply with some car wash shampoo.

To educate myself I have spent hours upon hours of reading forum posts, articles and watching YouTube videos to on how to get my car all shiny and dripping wet haha!

I have a new 2016 F30 BMW 328d in Estroil Blue with about 5k miles on it. It has some very very light swirls that I can only see at some angles. (but then again I have an untrained eye.)

Due to lurking on this forum I have made some purchases from a pressure washer all the way to halogen working lights for the garage. My family thinks I am going all crazy!

So far I think I got the process down in my mind and I think I have made the necessary purchases.

I just need you guys to look over and see if I am missing anything or any advice or suggestions on the process itself for a first timer

The things I have now:



· Porter Cable 7424xp along with 5" backing plate and some 5.5" Lake Country Flat Foam White Pads.
· Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo
· A bunch of microfiber towels
· Poorboy’s World Clay & Lube Combo
· Chemical Guys Pad Cleaner
· Red Foam Wax & Sealant Applicator Pads (for hand)
· Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 and some Blue Lake Country pads
· Pinnacle Souverän Liquid Spray Wax
· Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer
· Menzerna PF2500 Polish


This is the process I have down:

1. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method
2. Dry Car using Optimum QD as drying aid
3. Clay Car with Poor Boy's kit
4. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 bucket method
5. Dry car again using Optimum QD as drying aid
6. Use PC 7424xp and white pads w/ PF2500 to polish entire car
7. Use PC 7424xp and Blue pads w/ WGDGPS 3.0 to seal entire car
8. 12 hours later apply Souveran Liquid Spray Wax.

Some basic questions:

Was PF2500 & white pads a good choice for a pretty new BMW Estroil Blue car? I kinda wanted a 1 step polish so I don't spend more than 10 hours on this project.

Is it reasonable to expect to accomplish all this in 10-12 hours? haha.

Is it a good idea to use PC 7424xp to apply WGDGPS 3.0 on car? or Should I use my hand and the red foam applicator?

Should I follow WGDGPS 3.0 w/ the Souveran Liquid Spray Wax? Has anyone done this?

After wax/sealant do I use my Optimum QD?

I understand I need to test one area first but in reality I only have few days in a year for to afford to spend time on hobbies such as these and I really want to make sure I have the right polish and pad down from the start so I can get to work.

Ultimately, I am not expecting drop dead amazing results or 80%+ correction. (whatever that means?)

I just want a really clean and glossy daily driver. I want that wet look.

Sorry about the long post!

[shagnat]

Welcome and you made a great post. I'm not in a position to offer any help on the products you've mentioned but you can rest assured you'll get quite a few responses.

Congrats on the BMW.

[mwoolfso]

Hi guys!

I've been lurking on these forums for some weeks now and I am really impressed with this community. I am extremely new to the detailing world. The only thing I have experience with is washing my car simply with some car wash shampoo. To educate myself I have spent hours upon hours of reading forum posts, articles and watching YouTube videos to on how to get my car all shiny and dripping wet haha!

I have a new 2016 F30 BMW 328d in Estroil Blue with about 5k miles on it. It has some very very light swirls that I can only see at some angles. (but then again I have an untrained eye.) Due to lurking on this forum I have made some purchases from a pressure washer all the way to halogen working lights for the garage. My family thinks I am going all crazy! So far I think I got the process down in my mind and I think I have made the necessary purchases. I just need you guys to look over and see if I am missing anything or any advice or suggestions on the process itself for a first timer. The things I have now:


· Porter Cable 7424xp along with 5" backing plate and some 5.5" Lake Country Flat Foam White Pads.
· Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo
· A bunch of microfiber towels
· Poorboy’s World Clay & Lube Combo
· Chemical Guys Pad Cleaner
· Red Foam Wax & Sealant Applicator Pads (for hand)
· Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 and some Blue Lake Country pads
· Pinnacle Souverän Liquid Spray Wax
· Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer
· Menzerna PF2500 Polish


This is the process I have down:

1. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method
2. Dry Car using Optimum QD as drying aid
3. Clay Car with Poor Boy's kit
4. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 bucket method
5. Dry car again using Optimum QD as drying aid
6. Use PC 7424xp and white pads w/ PF2500 to polish entire car
7. Use PC 7424xp and Blue pads w/ WGDGPS 3.0 to seal entire car
8. 12 hours later apply Souveran Liquid Spray Wax.

Some basic questions:

1. Was PF2500 & white pads a good choice for a pretty new BMW Estroil Blue car? I kinda wanted a 1 step polish so I don't spend more than 10 hours on this project. Yes, should be OK for light swirling and your first attempt. P2500 will be very forgiving
2. Is it reasonable to expect to accomplish all this in 10-12 hours? haha. My first detail was 14-hours but that was a GMC Yukon. I think this is reasonable but you will need to break this apart in a couple of days
3. Is it a good idea to use PC 7424xp to apply WGDGPS 3.0 on car? or Should I use my hand and the red foam applicator? Either way is OK it is just a matter of preference. Some say you get a more even application with a DA
4. Should I follow WGDGPS 3.0 w/ the Souveran Liquid Spray Wax? Has anyone done this? You start with WDGPS. The spray wax can be applied after as your LSP
5. After wax/sealant do I use my Optimum QD? Actually Optimum Instant Detailer (OID) would not be part of your detail process. It would be for maintenance when the vehicle just needs a light cleaning.

I understand I need to test one area first but in reality I only have few days in a year for to afford to spend time on hobbies such as these and I really want to make sure I have the right polish and pad down from the start so I can get to work. Ultimately, I am not expecting drop dead amazing results or 80%+ correction. (whatever that means?) 80% correction meets that much swirling on your vehicle has been eliminated by your correction/polishing process steps

I just want a really clean and glossy daily driver. I want that wet look. Sorry about the long post!

First off, welcome to AGO and NICE CAR!!!!
Second, as far as long posts go I think this forum accepts them. :-)
Third, if you want a really clean and glossy daily driver with a wet look then you have the right products; albeit with some manageable overlap.

I adjusted your post above for my brain so please don't take offense. Read my inline responses before you move on below.

Your process should be as follows:

1. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method; rinse the car of soap but no need to dry the vehicle (drying before claying is not necessary)
2. Clay Car with Poor Boy's kit
3. Use PC 7424xp and white pads w/ PF2500 to polish entire car
4. Wash car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method (removes any polishing oils)
5. Use PC 7424xp and Blue pads w/ WGDGPS 3.0 to seal entire car
6. 12 hours later apply Souveran Liquid Spray Wax.

Qualifications

1. Meguiars Gold Class should *not* be the wash and wax product. If it is then go to your local auto store and get the regular product. You will not get the durability from WDGPS. With your product mix the W&W product can be used for #1, but not #4. Maintenance washes are also OK with W&W products
2. With a new vehicle I would typically recommend a decontamination step with IronX, Optimum Ferrous Iron Remover, or Dodo Juice's equivalent. The latter 2 are better for newbies as they have a longer dwell time and they take a little longer to work; which should work out for you. If you go with this product then this step goes between my #1 and #2 above. And yes, with a new vehicle you will be surprised at how much contamination is on your vehicle
3. Remember to take your time. When you start feel like you are needlessly rushing just take a break
4. OID is a great product, I have it in my arsenal. However, OID does not work well on glass. All that protection that goes on the paint adds an opaque layer on glass and it doesn't look good.

Enjoy.

[WT Taggart]

Estriol, welcome to AGO and nice car, I just bought a 2016 BMW 428 IX. Thanks for the post and don't feel bad, my family things I'm crazy as well until their vehicles are cleaned every week...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I like 2500 a lot as a one step. It should give you great results with a white pad.

You don't really need to wash the car again after you clay or after you polish. You can save a good deal of time there.

I think you can expect it to take 10-12 hours if you take your time since this is a new endeavor for you.

Whether you want to top off the sealant with the liquid wax is totally up to you. The next time you wash the car you can use the spray wax on a mostly dry car, kind of like a drying aid.

How about some pics?

[Estroil]

Welcome and you made a great post. I'm not in a position to offer any help on the products you've mentioned but you can rest assured you'll get quite a few responses.

Congrats on the BMW.

Thank you!


First off, welcome to AGO and NICE CAR!!!!
Second, as far as long posts go I think this forum accepts them. :-)
Third, if you want a really clean and glossy daily driver with a wet look then you have the right products; albeit with some manageable overlap.

I adjusted your post above for my brain so please don't take offense. Read my inline responses before you move on below.

Your process should be as follows:

1. Wash Car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method; rinse the car of soap but no need to dry the vehicle (drying before claying is not necessary)
2. Clay Car with Poor Boy's kit
3. Use PC 7424xp and white pads w/ PF2500 to polish entire car
4. Wash car w/ Gold Class & 2 Bucket method (removes any polishing oils)
5. Use PC 7424xp and Blue pads w/ WGDGPS 3.0 to seal entire car
6. 12 hours later apply Souveran Liquid Spray Wax.

Qualifications

1. Meguiars Gold Class should *not* be the wash and wax product. If it is then go to your local auto store and get the regular product. You will not get the durability from WDGPS. With your product mix the W&W product can be used for #1, but not #4. Maintenance washes are also OK with W&W products

I use this: Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo & Conditioner 64 oz. - A moisturizing car wash & conditioning soap to lubricate and clean your vehicle. (http://www.autogeek.net/mg7164.html)

2. With a new vehicle I would typically recommend a decontamination step with IronX, Optimum Ferrous Iron Remover, or Dodo Juice's equivalent. The latter 2 are better for newbies as they have a longer dwell time and they take a little longer to work; which should work out for you. If you go with this product then this step goes between my #1 and #2 above. And yes, with a new vehicle you will be surprised at how much contamination is on your vehicle

I've looked into the Optimum Ferrous Iron Remover. Seems like a solid product and worth spending some time applying.


3. Remember to take your time. When you start feel like you are needlessly rushing just take a break

4. OID is a great product, I have it in my arsenal. However, OID does not work well on glass. All that protection that goes on the paint adds an opaque layer on glass and it doesn't look good.

I love using OID as a drying aid.


Thanks for the detailed reply! Do I have to dry my car before using the Optimum Iron Remover?



Estriol, welcome to AGO and nice car, I just bought a 2016 BMW 428 IX. Thanks for the post and don't feel bad, my family things I'm crazy as well until their vehicles are cleaned every week...




I love the lines on the 428i. Beautiful car. My plan is to also clean the other vehicles in the household as well after mine to show them it was worth it!


I like 2500 a lot as a one step. It should give you great results with a white pad.

You don't really need to wash the car again after you clay or after you polish. You can save a good deal of time there.

I think you can expect it to take 10-12 hours if you take your time since this is a new endeavor for you.

Whether you want to top off the sealant with the liquid wax is totally up to you. The next time you wash the car you can use the spray wax on a mostly dry car, kind of like a drying aid.

How about some pics?

Thanks for the advice. Since washing after claying/polsihing seems like a optional step I'll see what I do depending on time.

I haven't taken many pics of the car yet and I don't have a nice DSLR or something. So excuse the crappy iPhone quality.

49647

http://oi65.tinypic.com/2w59amq.jpg

[mwoolfso]

Do I have to dry my car before using the Optimum Iron Remover?

No, but rinse thoroughly.

[Estroil]

Today, I got finally got a chance to start the detail process on my car.

It all started out perfect. Wash, Iron X, etc but then came claying.

I think I messed up real bad since my car has marring/swirl type marks ALL over it now. Before claying the paint was in great shape. I don't understand how it happened. I used so much lube just to avoid this (around 30oz) and kneaded the clay very often.

I am a bit worried because I started polishing with PF2500 and white foam pad and I still can't get some of the marks out after 4-5 passes with PC on highest speed. Do I need a new foam pad? Like orange? Or is my technique bad?

Any suggestions?

I also have Meguairs Ultimate Polish and Blue pads (that I was saving for sealant application).

Can I do a 2 step polish with this? PF2500 & Ultimate Polish or is that a waste of time?

[mwoolfso]

First, no need to worry. Actually, you did more good than bad - based on the results you found during inspection. Once you wash, decon and clay you removed every product that masked those swirls. The true condition of the paint is always startling. Mind you there is always a chance you can introduce marring when claying but more often than not if you were diligent in your technique those swirls were already there.

Pics would help at this point but based on what you are stating, P2500 & MUP wouldn't make much of a difference. MUP has so much polishing oils that the final outcome would mask those swirls again. The white foam pad is likely a polishing pad; which does not correct medium to heavy swirls when combined with PF2500 (a finishing polish which is 2 out of 10 on Menzerna's cutting scale). In terms of moving towards more aggressive correction products you would need a cutting pad and/or a more aggressive polish.

Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html)

You can try a cutting pad with PF2500 and see if that gets you closer to your marker for "done". If you want >95%, then you will likely need something like PG1000 or MC2400 and a cutting pad, and then you follow-up with PF2500 on white. I am sure you will see a difference. You could try Meguiars 105 or Ultimate Compound as a replacement if you need something right away that a local store in your area may have. Or call Menzerna and see if they have any local distributors in your area.

[Maestro Sam]

You are on the right track with the products and techniques. I suggest you watch a lot of youtube videos on paint correction. Using a buffer machine can cause a lot of damage if not done right. Nice car by the way!

[Estroil]

First, no need to worry. Actually, you did more good than bad - based on the results you found during inspection. Once you wash, decon and clay you removed every product that masked those swirls. The true condition of the paint is always startling. Mind you there is always a chance you can introduce marring when claying but more often than not if you were diligent in your technique those swirls were already there.

Pics would help at this point but based on what you are stating, P2500 & MUP wouldn't make much of a difference. MUP has so much polishing oils that the final outcome would mask those swirls again. The white foam pad is likely a polishing pad; which does not correct medium to heavy swirls when combined with PF2500 (a finishing polish which is 2 out of 10 on Menzerna's cutting scale). In terms of moving towards more aggressive correction products you would need a cutting pad and/or a more aggressive polish.

Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html)

You can try a cutting pad with PF2500 and see if that gets you closer to your marker for "done". If you want >95%, then you will likely need something like PG1000 or MC2400 and a cutting pad, and then you follow-up with PF2500 on white. I am sure you will see a difference. You could try Meguiars 105 or Ultimate Compound as a replacement if you need something right away that a local store in your area may have. Or call Menzerna and see if they have any local distributors in your area.

Thank you so much for the advice. Since I did not have time to wait for an online order to arrive I had to shop locally.

I picked up Ultimate Compound and tried that with my white polishing pad but it was barley making a difference. The only 5-6inch pad that the local shops had was a Meguar's DA Microfiber Cutting Pad...so I picked that up along with D300 correction compound. I did not wish to go for such an aggressive combo but I had no choice.

The results were immediately noticeable with this combo. I was able to achieve a good amount of correction (80%, I'd say). I just could not get rid of some scratch type marks. Then I followed up with Ultimate Polish on White Pads. LSP was Wolfgang Ultimate Gloss Sealant.

Car looks great in the garage. I still haven't seen it outside in the sun but I'll take some pics and post them here when the sun's out.


You are on the right track with the products and techniques. I suggest you watch a lot of youtube videos on paint correction. Using a buffer machine can cause a lot of damage if not done right. Nice car by the way!

Thanks!

Really? I thought PC 7424xp was pretty much almost guaranteed safe? I hope I did not get rid of too much clear coat.

[Bulletbling]

The results were immediately noticeable with this combo. I was able to achieve a good amount of correction (80%, I'd say).

A tip that no one has mentioned that works well if you can't get everything out with the finishing polish once you're done compounding is to make three or four section passes with the pressure you typically use, then do two additional passes with lighter pressure (maybe 15 lbs and then 5lbs on the final two). This is a good technique, especially for softer paint, that allows the paint to finish down even better.


I thought PC 7424xp was pretty much almost guaranteed safe? I hope I did not get rid of too much clear coat.

The chance of you removing too much clear coat is extremely small with a DA buffer. It is possible, but the PC7424XP is very safe and would take a long time of sitting on one spot to be dangerous.

[Estroil]

A tip that no one has mentioned that works well if you can't get everything out with the finishing polish once you're done compounding is to make three or four section passes with the pressure you typically use, then do two additional passes with lighter pressure (maybe 15 lbs and then 5lbs on the final two). This is a good technique, especially for softer paint, that allows the paint to finish down even better.



The chance of you removing too much clear coat is extremely small with a DA buffer. It is possible, but the PC7424XP is very safe and would take a long time of sitting on one spot to be dangerous.

Thanks for the tip.

Glad to hear it not super easy to damage the paint with the PC.

Some quick cellphone pics of what the finished product looks like.


https://s31.postimg.org/5osel1qfv/IMG_8476.jpg

https://s32.postimg.org/p6kodshrp/IMG_8485.jpg

https://s32.postimg.org/u6j6acyet/IMG_8486.jpg

Here is a pic of some marks/scratches that didn't come off.

https://s31.postimg.org/dsujq9o6z/IMG_8478.jpg

[Bulletbling]

Thanks for the tip.

Glad to hear it not super easy to damage the paint with the PC.

Some quick cellphone pics of what the finished product looks like.


https://s31.postimg.org/5osel1qfv/IMG_8476.jpg

https://s32.postimg.org/p6kodshrp/IMG_8485.jpg

https://s32.postimg.org/u6j6acyet/IMG_8486.jpg

Here is a pic of some marks/scratches that didn't come off.

https://s31.postimg.org/dsujq9o6z/IMG_8478.jpg

Looks good. Upload a side shot of the whole car.

[shagnat]

Looks GREAT.... thanks for sharing you work.