Using Meguiar's M66 in place of M205 during multi-step detail?

[TinySquid]

Hey everyone--woo first post! Im the MAN

Anyway, I'm curious if M66 could be used in place of M205 as an appropriate followup to something like M105 or D300. The process would look something like wash->clay->spot scratch cleanup with D300->M66 polish->seal with M21->touch up sealant with D156 after subsequent washings. My thought here is that I have a bunch of M66, it's super cheap, it's indicated as having the same cut as M205 (I know, there's that whole DAT vs. SMAT thing going on here), it's pretty easy to work with, and I've been happy with its results as a one-step... so, why not give it a go, right?

Anyone have any thoughts on this approach?

A bit of background, for those who are interested: In the past, I mostly just used the Klasse twins but their use became way too much work as I started purchasing larger cars (doing my old BMW M Roadster or NB Miata was fine), to the point where I mostly quit detailing my cars. Fast forward to this year and I've read Mike's book, done a bunch of forum research, watched pretty much every video Larry from AMMO NYC has made (and others), bought a PC 7424XP, and have really gone to town experimenting with stuff on my '14 Accord :buffing: ... and the next project is applying what I've learned so far to my Tesla Model S.

[dcjredline]

Id say it is gonna be fine. Let us see some pics after you are done.

[FUNX650]

I'm curious if M66 could be used in place
of M205 as an appropriate followup to
something like M105 or D300.

The process would look something like
wash->clay->spot scratch cleanup with D300->
M66 polish->seal with M21->touch up sealant
with D156 after subsequent washings.

My thought here is that I have a bunch of M66..,
and I've been happy with its results

IMO:
Using M66 instead of M205 will work handsomely.

And since M66 is a Cleaner/Wax, using it will
even eliminate the "Seal with M21" step from
your overall detailing processes. After all:
Time saved = Money Saved



Bob

[TinySquid]

Let us see some pics after you are done.
Of course!


IMO:
Using M66 instead of M205 will work handsomely.

And since M66 is a Cleaner/Wax, using it will
even eliminate the "Seal with M21" step from
your overall detailing processes. After all:
Time saved = Money Saved
Good point about the M21... I suppose I threw that step in there just so the car would have some more durable/longer lasting protection than the M66 offers, that I could layer D156 on top of over time (assuming the products compatibly stack like that). I take it you view that as excessive and that just layering D156 over the M66 would be sufficient?

[dlc95]

Yep!

If I get a really trashed car, I'll use M105 to cut, and finish with M66.

Using it in that application, I prefer using it with a white Lake Country CCS polishing pad, or Crimson Hydrotech finishing pad.

[FUNX650]

Good point about the M21... I suppose I threw that step in there just so the car would have some more durable/longer lasting protection than the M66 offers, that I could layer D156 on top of over time (assuming the products compatibly stack like that). I take it you view that as excessive
and that just layering D156 over the M66 would be sufficient?
Let me just say that I don't view "layering"
M21 over M66 as being excessive...It's that
M66's LSP-component is a Wax; while M21
happens to be an LSP that's a Sealant.

As such:
I don't consider "layering" Sealants
over Waxes to be a "Best Practice".

Hope that helps.


Bob

[TinySquid]

Let me just say that I don't view "layering"
M21 over M66 as being excessive...It's that
M66's LSP-component is a Wax; while M21
happens to be an LSP that's a Sealant.

As such:
I don't consider "layering" Sealants
over Waxes to be a "Best Practice".

Hope that helps.
Ah, got it--I was wondering about that part of my plan... Hmm.

[dlc95]

Let me just say that I don't view "layering"
M21 over M66 as being excessive...It's that
M66's LSP-component is a Wax; while M21
happens to be an LSP that's a Sealant.

As such:
I don't consider "layering" Sealants
over Waxes to be a "Best Practice".

Hope that helps.


Bob

I suppose if he really wanted to use a sealant post M66 application, M20 Polymer Sealant would be the ticket. It would remove the wax left behind by M66, and impart it's own concoction of protection.

But at that point, one may as well just use M205 then follow with M21.

If I want to boost protection, I'll apply Ultimate Quick Wax over the M66, and be done.

[TinySquid]

If I want to boost protection, I'll apply Ultimate Quick Wax over the M66, and be done.
Aren't both D156 and UQW technically spray sealants... or am I just getting my sealants and waxes mixed up again?

[dlc95]

Aren't both D156 and UQW technically spray sealants... or am I just getting my sealants and waxes mixed up again?

I think so. I have a bunch of bottles of the consumer version I have to use up before I but the gallon.

[FUNX650]

Aren't both D156 and UQW technically
spray sealants... or am I just getting my
sealants and waxes mixed up again?
Hope the below MOL thread helps:

Which Products Contain Carnauba? (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?63136-Which-Products-Contain-Carnauba&p=562849&viewfull=1#post562849)


Cliffs' version:
D156/UQW gets the majority of
their protection from the polymers
used. Any carnauba content in them
is secondary, really. ~Michael Stoops



Bob

[TinySquid]

Well, I got a start on cleaning up the Model S today... and I have to say, my original plan hasn't worked out as intended. So, the wash went fine (usual multi-bucket and foam gun affair), things went a bit screwy on the clay bar step as I discovered that, for whatever reason, standard Meguiar's Quick Detailer leaves some sort of nasty streaky film on this car that absolutely does not wipe off (never had this happen on any of my other cars). Ultimate Quick Detailer seems to take it off, so I'm not concerned.

That minor quirk aside, the first run of polishing was interesting... I went into this with the assumption that the paint would be fairly soft due to how easily it scratches and etches, but I'm pretty sure I was proven wrong with my first test areas using M205 on a white polishing pad at 4.5 and 5 on the DA doing absolutely nothing. Stepping up to M205 on a Meguiar's microfiber cutting pad provided better results, removing some of the bug etching and the lightest of scratches. From there I went to D300 on the microfiber cutting pad and that was pretty effective at removing the bug etching, light scratching, and swirls/arc scratches put there by the detailer who worked on the car last. Interestingly, D300 on the cutting pad didn't seem to put any marring, scratching, or hazing into the paint at all--it actually looks pretty good. So, now I'm trying to figure out the best course of action: follow up with M205 on a microfiber cutting pad? Orange foam pad?

If this paint is actually rather hard, which I assume is that case due to the above, then I'm a bit perplexed by how easily it seems to scratch and etch. Is it just that there's something about the paint that causes it to show the slightest of scratching super clearly? In my limited experience with my own cars I don't think I've ever encountered anything resembling hard paint, so I'm being a bit cautious.