Polisher? Paint correction? $200

[asap2stacks]

I have $200 to spend I'm looking for something that can easily do paint correction. What do you guys suggest I buy? Alright have a pc

[Setec Astronomy]

Wait--you already have a PC and you're looking to buy a different polisher for $200?

[asap2stacks]

Yes a rotary

[Setec Astronomy]

Oh, that sounds like a good idea. How much time do you have behind your PC?

Anyway, here's a Makita for $220, you ought to be able to burn the paint off something with it:

Makita 9227C 7 inch Circular Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/ma927po.html)

[asap2stacks]

I mean yea I have never used a rotary ok that doest mean sit here and bash me everyone has to start some where just like I'm sure you did. I have used my pc for about 3 months now and have done over 25 vehicles with it and haven't had any bad reviews with are services. That's face it tho the pc takes to long to do paint correction with and I'm a detailer that's in business and time is money, what can do the job faster at a safely manner I'm not stupid and going to hold a rotary or any polisher that is over a spot at 3000rpm and burn through the paint ok so common dude you gonna help me out or are you gonna sit there and keep bsing

[GSKR]

What kind of pads and compounds do you have?. A dual action performs great with the right technique and products.rotary is ideal for isolated deep scratches and damp sanding.The griots dual action is one little powerful machine.why would you rotary a car and spend so much more time to remove the halograms left from the rotary,unless your getting 700 to 1200 for a correction and coating .If not then don't create more work and promblems for yourself.

[asap2stacks]

I use lc pads I was thinking about getting the g21 just spending the extra $

[GSKR]

I mean yea I have never used a rotary ok that doest mean sit here and bash me everyone has to start some where just like I'm sure you did. I have used my pc for about 3 months now and have done over 25 vehicles with it and haven't had any bad reviews with are services. That's face it tho the pc takes to long to do paint correction with and I'm a detailer that's in business and time is money, what can do the job faster at a safely manner I'm not stupid and going to hold a rotary or any polisher that is over a spot at 3000rpm and burn through the paint ok so common dude you gonna help me out or are you gonna sit there and keep bsingnobody is calling you stupid.The fastest way to do a detail is with a pc.maybe you just need to brush up on different products and pads and find the correct arm speed and technique suited for different paint conditions.maybe you can order mike Philips book and read it.He has a lot of info on different situations and proper technique.we all start from somewhere and some of us learn the hard way and using a rotary for production detailing is not the way to start off good luck and think about the mp book it's cheap and you just can't go wrong.

[Setec Astronomy]

Sorry I was a little snarky--the Mk. I Rupes is on sale and might be a pretty good deal for you:

Rupes LHR 15ES Big Foot Random Orbital Polisher, rupes bigfoot, rupes car polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-lhr-15es-big-foot-polisher.html)

But as GSKR was alluding to, you can do a lot of great work in production detailing with something like this and your PC:

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit, paint correction kit, dual action polishing kit (http://www.autogeek.net/da-microfiber-starter-kit-5in.html)

[rbss]

[QUOTE=Setec Astronomy;1376895]Sorry I was a little snarky--the Mk. I Rupes is on sale and might be a pretty good deal for you:

Rupes LHR 15ES Big Foot Random Orbital Polisher, rupes bigfoot, rupes car polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-lhr-15es-big-foot-polisher.html)

I would definitely get this Rupes over the rotary you will will use it more often then a rotary.

I have a Pc,Flex, and a Makita. Rarely do I need to use my rotary.

[Jaretr1]

Here is how I would look at it. If I was a tradesman doing a specific trade, I would make sure I have the RIGHT tools to do the jobs I need. If the tools I needed cost a certain amount, that is outside of my budget, I would wait until my budget allows me to get what I need. I would not sacrifice or buy something that may work but not be quite right for the job because it is cheaper. In the meantime, at least in this case, I would look at products and processes that allow me to become as efficient as possible with the tool I have. In the case of the PC7424, there are lots of products, pads etc that change how efficiently that tool can be.

[briarpatch]

Since I'm a newbie into detailing......and have really only been serious about it approx 3 months, I see myself as still learning and refining my technique. For me, this will serve me better right now than expanding my tools beyond my GG6. I'm still learning about different product/pad combinations, types of paint on different makes/models...so the learning curve is still very steep.

[KB in MD]

Here is how I would look at it. If I was a tradesman doing a specific trade, I would make sure I have the RIGHT tools to do the jobs I need. If the tools I needed cost a certain amount, that is outside of my budget, I would wait until my budget allows me to get what I need. I would not sacrifice or buy something that may work but not be quite right for the job because it is cheaper. In the meantime, at least in this case, I would look at products and processes that allow me to become as efficient as possible with the tool I have. In the case of the PC7424, there are lots of products, pads etc that change how efficiently that tool can be.

This and the additional new pads and products can be used if and when you upgrade your machine

[LSNAutoDetailing]

As Mike Phillips explains in his book "Complete Guide To a A Show Car Shine" in which pages 50-71 he goes over Machine Polishers.
Mike Phillips’ The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine Paperback Book (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)

DA Polishers from page 50-62, Rotary from 64 to 66, Foam & Fiber Buffing Pads from 72-91, then step-by-step pages 117-128.
This is in addition to countless videos he has posted here on AGO, YouTube etc.

One thing he mentions about rotary and wool pads is that it takes experience and skill to use a rotary/wool w/out holograms. It's best to practice on an old body panel from junk yard or body shop...

Otherwise, you will not be saving any time... You will still have to use a DA w/ Polish to finish off, or surface prep for the LSP.

As GSKR mentioned above, have you looked into long throw polishers such as the GG G-15 or GG G-21? Both are absolutely fantastic DA's and the BOSS system is incredible to work with, from the pads, MF Pads through the creams.

True paint correction isn't something done in an hour or two... If it's quick details you want, my suggestion is G-15 or G-21, BOSS Pads (Yellow or Orange) and HD Speed, or Boss Finishing Sealant.

[dlc95]

I use lc pads I was thinking about getting the g21 just spending the extra $

I can't tell you how many times I've put my fancier machines aside in favor of the PC.

I can usually get the job done with the PC paired with green Buff and Shine pads and Ultimate Compound, M100, or FG400.

If not, I use Meguiar's D300/DMC5 (microfiber cutting pads).

The past month or so I've been hot and heavy with my Rupes Duetto with their blue foam and microfiber pads, and their blue Zephir compound. That's rapidly becoming my weapon of choice.

Seriously though, give the Meguiar's system a shot. It's fantastic. Make sure to order the Xtra cut microfiber discs too.