Can I use Ultimate Compound (or should I skip to only using Ultimate Polish)?

[RolloMay]

Ultimate Compound and then Ultimate Polish, OR must I skip to only, Ultimate Polish? (see below)

I've finished painting my car with an acrylic enamel aerosol paint.

Next: Can I (still) use Ultimate Compound first and then Ultimate Polish?

Or: Since it's not a lacquer paint, must I only use Ultimate Polish?

Sincerely,

Rollo

[Setec Astronomy]

Well, I've never buffed acrylic enamel aerosol paint...but if the level of defects or correction you need dictates a compound, then start with the compound.

How long ago did you paint it?

[dlc95]

I wonder if there is a need for bodybshop safe products on fresh paint?

[Octopiston]

Aerosol as in rattle can? If so, i wouldn't think there would be a thick enough layer to use either.
Then again, if that is the case. Try it, its just spray paint. Respray if it eats through.

[RolloMay]

Aerosol as in rattle can? If so, i wouldn't think there would be a thick enough layer to use either.
Then again, if that is the case. Try it, its just spray paint. Respray if it eats through.


I'm somewhat new to the forum, thus I meant this reply to be to all of the recommendations received (not just the one quoted, above).

I painted it about a week ago. Can says to let it dry seven days before "doing anything". Seems like I read in a post last year where Mike (Philips) said to only "polish" car,
(if painted with acrylic enamel aerosol); but I wasn't 100% sure. I ask because I've heard good things about "ultimate compound").

Thanks,

Rollo

[RolloMay]

I wonder if there is a need for bodybshop safe products on fresh paint?
I don't think I explained the situation completely enough here, my apologies, as this is my first question posted, though I have followed this forum for quite some time.
I meant that finally after doing all of the prep work involved I have finally finished painting this car. And used an aerosol, acrylic enamel, high gloss black (Duplicolor) followed by a "crystal clear" (aerosol, acrylic enamel), one week later (which I forgot to mention). Yes. (Ie. rattle cans). I meant after waiting at least a week, before
buffing.

With that: The reason I asked my question, is because it seems like I remember reading in a post by "Mike P." from a year or two ago, that he stated if one "went this
route" (Ie. rattle cans- 1k - ss paint), one should then merely then use, "Meguire's Ultimate Polish" (only), not "Ult. Compound".
However, I was speaking with the owner of an auto supply shop a few months ago, who I believe knew the "route" I was painting my car, and was stating that, "Meguire's has recently (within the last couple of years) come out with some pretty amazing products".

If I used the Ultimate compound, I would be using it on the "crystal clear coat" (which was applied second).

Thanks,
Rollo

[BillE]

I'd start with the 'polish' first, then consider 'compound'.

ALWAYS start with the least aggressive method(s) first.

In my own experiences with rattle can paint jobs, after wet/damp sanding, most times I can finish off with just a 'polish'.

Bill

[RolloMay]

First, I forgot to mention in my post, that I "then", followed-up by painting it with an acrylic enamel aerosol paint/clear. (So the first was a Gloss Black. Then a week later, a painted over that with a, Crystal clear). That was actually a recommendation from an agent at Duplicolor (which is the aerosol paint I used). So, in a sense I was really talking about actually buffing the "crystal clear coat" (if you will); though I know it's not BC/CC, but that was the intention/idea, anyway. As I painted the entire car, which took a while; I didn't begin buffing (which by now, I already began, etc.. since my post), until I'd finished painting, and began buffing the area where I first began painting. Bottom Line: probably about 3 weeks, until I started buffing. I ended up going ahead and trying the Ultimate Compound first and then the Ultimate polish. This worked well on one side. Then on the other side; I tried the same, but saw some areas which needed more work, so took off the compound and polish with denatured alcohol, and then used a DA sander with only 2000/3000 grit to cut it a bit. It seemed to have gotten out a few of the rough spots. This weekend, I'll probably go back and retry the ultimate compound and ultimate polish once again. Thanks for your reply.

[RolloMay]

Really. Great post Bill. I appreciate it. I'll have to remember that. Thanks. Do you know if only using the polish (and no compound), after of course first wet sanding it smooth, would leave you with less oxidation?

[RolloMay]

I didn't mean I had finished painting the car (yesterday). I meant that I had finished. It took quite some time, as I painted the entire car. Getting out the dents, working the Bondo; and then getting the car prepped for paint to a great while. So, in this case; time is relative, as it's been several weeks. Didn't mean to mislead you.

[RolloMay]

I realize with a forum like this that there is a time lag, as everyone is busy with their day job as well, and gets back to the forum when they can.
Here, are a couple of pics:
1- Dented fender (before).
2- Fender (after)- correcting dent with hammer and dolly.

Also, as stated earlier, I went ahead and used the Ultimate Compound first and then the Ultimate Polish. Then I went back and added a Glaze (which I had read a little about). In a couple of months I'm going to finally add the wax. It's hard waiting because you want to protect the car (especially with no BC/CC), but don't want to ruin all the work on the paint thus far by stripping it right off by waxing it too soon.
1- Here's a pic of the hood of the car after the glaze.

After I wax it, may be a couple more months I'll post, that pic and see how the whole thing ended-up turning out.
Thanks for the support. As you know, it's a lot of work.485154851348514

[Octopiston]

A wax shouldn't strip the paint.

Before waxing, work on the foundation. Not trying to be rude or anything, but it looks a bit uneven. With that said, you can get a decent look. How did you prep? How did you apply the paint? Did you fog it on or use even strokes? What paint did you use? Did you lay a few coats of clear on top?

To show I'm not picking. I did my fender vents body color.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/Octopiston/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg (http://s95.photobucket.com/user/Octopiston/media/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg.html)

No compounding or polishing was needed afterward. I even did a hood of a suzuki samurai ~24 years ago.

[RolloMay]

A wax shouldn't strip the paint.

Before waxing, work on the foundation. Not trying to be rude or anything, but it looks a bit uneven. With that said, you can get a decent look. How did you prep? How did you apply the paint? Did you fog it on or use even strokes? What paint did you use? Did you lay a few coats of clear on top?

To show I'm not picking. I did my fender vents body color.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/Octopiston/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg (http://s95.photobucket.com/user/Octopiston/media/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg.html)

No compounding or polishing was needed afterward. I even did a hood of a suzuki samurai ~24 years ago.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____
Hello Octopiston,
Thank you for your reply. 1- To answer your first question, "That the paint looks a little uneven"... I'm not really sure how you can determine this? Which photo do you use to make this assess-ment? (I'm honestly wanting to learn). (The shot of the hood reflection?). (In the last photo, the car had just been washed, but not yet dried, so there are water droplets on the car, etc).
2- As it has turned-out, I have had to (or decided to) go back and get out a few dents which annoyed me (and one which was a gift apparently from another car which I discovered on my bumper recently). That said, I've had to go back and basically redo several areas. (As for the one dent below the left taillight, I had to use a dent puller (Ie. followed by bondo, and the whole process, before repainting). (As for the dent in the plastic bumper cover, I took off the bumper cover; and used a heat gun, followed by a bumper repair kit and also need bondo puddy, and the whole process before repainting).
3- All that said, "Bottom Line": I decided to go back and do some more bodywork (after the paintjob- which is posted). I have now finished re-painting the areas mentioned. I have compounded it and polished it. I just have one more very small area which I just repainted two days ago, left; before I can say that I have compounded and polished the whole car. Then I plan to apply a glaze, using a DA polisher. I'll try to post some updated photos when this is finished.
4- With that update, I'll answer the rest of your Q's: "How did I prep?", "How did I apply the paint?", "What paint did I use?", "Did I lay a few coats of clear?"
1) These answers apply to both the "original paint job" (seen in photos) as well as the; "re-painting" I mentioned after repairing dents.
I used Duplicolor aerosol (rattle can) acrylic enamel, gloss black. Then, yes, topped that with Duplicolor aerosol (rattle can) acrylic enamel, crystal clear. I applied the paint using even, 50% overlapping strokes. (I also used a bondo aerosol can plastic holder/sprayer, attached to grip the can, to allow more control). Before I get to how I prepped, just wanted to add that after I painted,
and let dry for about 1-2 weeks; I then used a DA sander, w/ 2000 and 3000 grit pads, to "cut" (if you will), the clear coat which I added. (I did this, as I read this is the way to remove "orange peel", which I noticed in a few areas). After "cutting", I then used ultimate compound, followed by ultimate polish, then glaze #7. (I did not wax, as was too soon).
Now, I prepped the car, using basically the following regimen: I wet-sanded the car (by hand)(using a sanding block), starting with 320 grit, then went up to 600 grit. I then added filler primer (where needed- 70% of car), and sandable primer (30% of car). After the primer dried, I then went back and wet-sanded the primed surface 'till smooth. Seems like I then waited about a week (primarily because of work, etc.). I then painted with the gloss black aerosol (three coats). Then waited a week, and painted with the crystal clear (three coats). (Before adding the crystal clear, I wiped down the painted surface with denatured alcohol, scuffed with red, scotch-brite pad, and wiped down again with denatured alcohol.)
I hope this makes sense of both the steps taken and the current situation.

Regarding the photo of your car, it looks great! Did you use aerosol (rattle can), or spray gun? If the former (or even if not)... Any advice you may have is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Rollo May

[RolloMay]

Quick question,
What (specifically) do you mean by, "Work on the foundation"? (Ie. What specific steps). (Remember, I'm using "rattle can", but do have a DA sander/polisher).
Thanks,
Rollo May

[RolloMay]

A wax shouldn't strip the paint.

Before waxing, work on the foundation. Not trying to be rude or anything, but it looks a bit uneven. With that said, you can get a decent look. How did you prep? How did you apply the paint? Did you fog it on or use even strokes? What paint did you use? Did you lay a few coats of clear on top?

To show I'm not picking. I did my fender vents body color.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/Octopiston/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg (http://s95.photobucket.com/user/Octopiston/media/Car%20stuff/image_zpszqrrnrzy.jpeg.html)

No compounding or polishing was needed afterward. I even did a hood of a suzuki samurai ~24 years ago.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____
The (above) is a reply I received to a post in which I showed about 3 photos and made the following comments:
Here, are a couple of pics:
1- Dented fender (before).
2- Fender (after)- correcting dent with hammer and dolly.
(3- Picture of car, thus far).
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________________________________________
I very much appreciate the reply and the specific questions (which I tried to answer in another post reply). I thank this user very much, honestly. And look forward to any help that can
be provided (by more veteran auto buffs).

I just feel like there is one thing I need to point out, and here, I'm am speaking to all members of the forum (not just the replier, above). I realize his comments were indeed genuine, and
he is indeed trying to help. (I may even have these comments, in a separate post, as I think they are important):

I take it that there are varying levels of "auto buffs" in this forum (beginner, intermediate and advanced). I also realize that some are using spray guns and others are using rattle cans. Regardless, the commonality for likely 95% of members is they have a passion for "this", as a "hobby". (Actually, it's more than a "hobby"; as Mike P. said in a forum once, in a way it's a form
of "therapy"). Most of us, especially those using rattle cans, have put in hours of weekend labor into these projects.

With that in mind. When replies are given, I think it's important to point out both the "good" and the "areas needing improvement". As, yes; we are here to "learn", but this forum is also a source
of "support"/"encouragement", regarding a common passion.

Merely an example: In this post, I showed three photos of a car I've been working on for quite some time (many weekends). The last two photos were a photo of the car, with a severely/complicated dent in the fender. (the before). The next photo was (the after). That is after repairing the dented fender using merely a "hammer and dolly".
However in the reply (and I realize innocuously), it was pointed out the paint wasn't smooth, etc. This is fine, and I hope will be helpful. But, no comment on the repaired fender.
I had actually never used a hammer and dolly before, and amazed myself, I was able to tap out the dent. Bottom line: We all need encouragement as well as feedback.
The replier then posted a picture of his car which needed no compound. It wasn't clarified, but certainly appears to be painted with a spray gun. We all know, in this area; we are talking apples
and oranges. Sure, I could go and pay someone to paint my car professionally with a spray gun and that would be that. But that's not the point. Nor is it the point of the enthusiasts in this forum,
would I imagine. What better feeling, than to put in the time and effort; when away from the job, to tap out a complex dent in a fender, to where it appears never dented. A feeling of satisfaction
and accomplishment, which no one really cares about, but you. (I realize at a body shop, they would have just ordered a new fender)... and that's not the point. I hope this post makes sense. It truly is not intended for the replier, here, but a general statement for this forum.
Thanks,
Rollo
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