'93 Buick LeSabre - COVERED in Scratches (possibly created from Snow Shovels?)

[TheSword]

Hello everyone!
Long time frequenter, first time poster.

My car and its scratches:
(The images there are of the top, the hood, and the trunk.)

Hood:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/thesword-albums-93-buick-covered-scratches-picture47251-13063962-10153784481079340-171976809-o.jpg
Trunk (2)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/thesword-albums-93-buick-covered-scratches-picture47252-13054537-10153784481164340-2063297367-o.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/thesword-albums-93-buick-covered-scratches-picture47253-13036515-10153784480704340-392993359-o.jpg
Top:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/thesword-albums-93-buick-covered-scratches-picture47254-13016792-10153784481019340-1472523900-o.jpg





The scratches do not catch my fingernail when I glide over them.
These scratches are very noticeable when the sun hits directly on them. You can barely see them at night or in the dark.
It looks like these scratches were created when the previous owner(s) were removing snow off of it? Such a shame. :(

Anyways, I don't know what caused the scratches, but I've heard from some folks that my best course of action would be to wet sand it, use some compound, and then polish the car.
I've read elsewhere that a General Fix would be to do some Paint correct with polish & compound using a Dual Action buffer.

But before I go off and buy these products and have them possibly not work...
I would love to get YOUR guys and gals' thoughts on what my best steps to take would be. You are all the experts & the biggest auto detailing forum on the web!

So what would be the BEST things to purchase in order to fix/remove/hide these scratches? This is a huge job, since practically the whole body of the car has these scratches & other larger but not as subtle scratches. So I might buy a Dual Action polisher. But before I do that, I'd first like to experiment on a small area first without the DA polisher to see if any auto detailing items that's been recommended actually work.

Thank you very much in advance for any insight and help you can provide!

[LSNAutoDetailing]

Can you please post some pictures? That would help greatly.

[TheSword]

Hi Paul. I did post pictures. They are in the imgur link up above.
Here is the link again: 93 LeSabre COVERED in Small Scratches - Album on Imgur (http://imgur.com/a/Fuorn) / http://imgur.com/a/Fuorn

Thanks.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

Hi paul. I did post pictures. They are in the imgur link up above.
Here is the link again: 93 LeSabre COVERED in Small Scratches - Album on Imgur (http://imgur.com/a/Fuorn)

Thanks


Hi, it would be easier for forum members to have the images w/in the thread:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/21313-how-insert-image-your-photo-gallery-into-your-message.html
Typically 1.) keeps the thread in context to the photos, 2.) ease of use and 3.) Most don't like to click outside the forum to go to photo websites... I never know what I might find, or my PC may pickup.

[TheSword]

Ah, gotcha. Let me do that right now. Thanks Paul.

[TheSword]

Done!

[LSNAutoDetailing]

If you want to tackle this yourself, you'll want to do your homework and start with the least aggressive methods.
To quote Mike Phillips in this article: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24045-rids-definition-rids-story-behind-term.html#



Keep in mind paint is thin, especially if you're working on the factory original basecoat/clearcoat finish.
If the paint you're working on is the factory clear coat then the clear layer alone is going to be on average around 2 mils thin.
Feel a 3M post-it note between your fingers, this is about 3 mils thin.

I myself have only wet-sanded areas on my own privately owned vehicle (POV) and do not offer it as a service to customers.
If it were my car, I'd start with taking paint thickness measurements a test spot w/ a moderately aggressive cutting pad and the use of a Dual Action tool such as Griot's G15 or Flex, etc.. (in my case - Griot's BOSS Orange) and use Griot's Fast Correcting Cream. If this did not make a difference I'd start increasing the aggressiveness in pads and move to one of the Meguiars Offerings of M100,101 or 105. With a rotary and wool skill is required it's easy to burn clear with a rotary vs. DA, then follow on with a less aggressive polish using a DA.

Always do a test spot http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html


Others will chime in and offer more suggestions which will be very helpful. I tend to start with the least aggressive and work my up to the edge of my comfortably. Where are you located?

Hopefully Mike Phillips will see this thread and offer input.

p.s. nice job on posting the pics into the thread and Welcome to AG Online!!! :-)

[TheSword]

Hi Paul,

Great info right there. Yes, I've noticed that my cars paint is pretty thin. That's why sanding it was a worry of mine. Didn't know whether I'd burn right through the coat and reveal some metal!

[TTQ B4U]

WOW! I'm not sure if they are worse than you describe or if the sun is really just making them show up in those pics. Odd that it's on all the horizontal surfaces. Could it be from a snow brush? They are scratches and not cracks in the clear correct?

I have no further input other than perhaps as noted, test a specific area like the deck lid/trunk. Perhaps even talk with someone from here who is local to you. Not sure of your location but the group here is pretty friendly and always willing to help.

[ascarbo27]

yikes good luck, cant wait to see results and know how you fix it!

[TheSword]

WOW! I'm not sure if they are worse than you describe or if the sun is really just making them show up in those pics. Odd that it's on all the horizontal surfaces. Could it be from a snow brush? They are scratches and not cracks in the clear correct?.


Hi pdqgp,
Correct. Not cracks, definitely scratches. I'm almost certain that these are from a snow brush! The sun really accentuates them.

[richy]

If you look at my thread from yesterday of a 1999 Camaro with original paint, it had some very deep swirls in it. Before I got to the kind of aggressive steps needed to get rid of them, first and foremost, I took paint readings to make sure I had enough clear to work with. You've got an old car there. I would be very concerned about how much paint there is for you to work with. THAT is what is going to inhibit your efforts more than anything else. If you've got really thin paint, you're looking to strike right through your clear if you try heavy compounding or sanding and compounding. You need to find someone in your area to borrow one from. If not, be prepared for the worse (re-paint) if you are too aggressive for the amount of paint there is to work with.

Let's assume you've got thin paint and you don't want to re-paint. In that case, I would suggest using a glaze (hides sins, doesn't remove them) and follow it with a strong wax like Collonite or something similar.

That's my $.02.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

If you look at my thread from yesterday of a 1999 Camaro with original paint, it had some very deep swirls in it. Before I got to the kind of aggressive steps needed to get rid of them, first and foremost, I took paint readings to make sure I had enough clear to work with. You've got an old car there. I would be very concerned about how much paint there is for you to work with. THAT is what is going to inhibit your efforts more than anything else. If you've got really thin paint, you're looking to strike right through your clear if you try heavy compounding or sanding and compounding. You need to find someone in your area to borrow one from. If not, be prepared for the worse (re-paint) if you are too aggressive for the amount of paint there is to work with.

Let's assume you've got thin paint and you don't want to re-paint. In that case, I would suggest using a glaze (hides sins, doesn't remove them) and follow it with a strong wax like Collonite or something similar.

That's my $.02.

Richy is right on... For paint measurements I would use the inside door jamb as a base line. We know this was layered thin and not exposed to elements like the surface areas. If your horizontal surfaces (hood, roof, trunk) are not that far from your baseline (door jamb) you don't have enough paint to work with.

A good cleaner wax, or good old #7 followed by Collinite as Richy states may get you more mileage.

[TheSword]

Thanks a lot fellas (richy & pauly, heh, those are the names of my uncle's 2 good buddies).

I'm not able to see my car just right now, but, off the top of my head, I don't believe I have much paint to work with. Compared to my newer 09 Altima, it definitely doesn't.

What glaze would you guys recommend buying? I just ordered some wax last night (Formula 1 (formerly the Kit brand) Carnauba Paste Wax).

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm going to buck the trend and say that looks like incipient clearcoat failure.