Best compound to remove this scratch by hand/machine?

[xxnonamexx]

What is a good compound to lighten, remove this scratch. A fingernail doesn't get deep into it.Thanks

[GSKR]

When approaching a scratch like that,I tend to start with src compound from black fire and wool on rotary and take it from there.some of that scratch is on the bodyline so becareful there.forget removing by hand you won't be pleased.

[VISITOR]

megs ultimate compound works very well by hand/and or DA and costs around/less than $10...

[PA DETAILER]

MEGS Scratch X should take that right out.

Meguiar's SCRATCH X 2.0 Fine Scratch & Swirl Remover is a rubbing compound that can be applied by hand. Meguiars ScratchX polishes away fine paint (http://www.autogeek.net/megscratxfin.html)

[Eldorado2k]

Meguiars Ultimate Compound by hand with a microfiber applicator should do it.

[njain2686]

What do you have at the moment ?
DA/Rotary?
Compounds?
Pads?

[GSKR]

That scratch won't come out by hand maybe hide it a little.one wash it will be back again.

[xxnonamexx]

I sold my DA/Rotary machines, pads. I had Malco compound products I am looking to get a new "Kit" The issue I have is the vibration from machines after using them. I am basically in the market for a new spring set. I only have the 3" for applying wax. Otherwise I go by hand the best I can. I have Mikes book and it has alot of information and I keep going through it and always change my mind what I really need and is a worthy investment. Now I see these companies pushing organic cleaning, detailing a car and wondering what thats about.

[Mike Phillips]

I sold my DA/Rotary machines, pads. I had Malco compound products I am looking to get a new "Kit"

The issue I have is the vibration from machines after using them. I am basically in the market for a new spring set. I only have the 3" for applying wax. Otherwise I go by hand the best I can.



As mentioned, the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound works very well by hand so does the Pinnacle Advanced Compound. For serious scratches when working by hand I start out with cotton terry cloth or a microfiber applicator pad and then re-compound using a foam applicator pad.






I have Mikes book and it has a lot of information and I keep going through it and always change my mind what I really need and is a worthy investment.



Thank you. I put a LOT of work into all my how-to books. Just like how my answers on this forum are in-depth and detailed so are my how-to books.





Now I see these companies pushing organic cleaning, detailing a car and wondering what thats about.



I eat a lot of organic food for health reasons but I don't see the correlation with detailing supplies. Stick with tried and true brands discussed here.


:)

[xxnonamexx]

Is there a compound for light scratches and one you prefer for deeper scratches?

I agree whats true and tested works organic I guess what they really mean is by breathing in the chemicals.

[Mike Phillips]

Is there a compound for light scratches and one you prefer for deeper scratches?



No not really. Why? Because clearcoats are hard. That is physically hard. There are some that are soft or medium but most when compared to the ONLY other category of paint used in the automotive world is single stage paints then for most people, clearcoats are hard.

I cover this in the first chapter of my how to book. I recommend everyone read my how-to book because like my posts on this forum it's full of in-depth information that will turn you into a walking encyclopedia of car detailing knowledge. This one,

The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine (http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html)



So if you're going to try to remove any scratches by hand then you might as well make it easy on your hand and arm and start out with a true compound. Just be sure to use a compound that uses great abrasive technology or you'll scratch the paint. Most people in my poll (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/98943-poll-whats-number-one-most-important-factor-when-comes-polishing-paint.html) said they believe technique is the most important factor when it comes to polishing paint and I say it all starts with the stuff that's touching the paint i.e. abrasive technology.






I agree whats true and tested works organic I guess what they really mean is by breathing in the chemicals.



Hmmm..... I don't breathe in enough chemicals for this to be an issue but I do know detailers that have become chemical sensitive so for anyone that is concerned with breathing in chemicals organic products "might" be the way to go.

I would opt for performance first and then consider wearing a respirator. I can't help but think going with organic detailing products will mean sacrificing performance somewhere.... guess it depends on the product category.


respirator (http://www.autogeek.net/deluxe-coating-safety-kit.html)


:)

[xxnonamexx]

I agree I am going to purchase the compounds you recommended and refer back to your book on compound/polishing.

Is their a inexpensive buffer you recommend? I have the 3" to apply wax the issue with the buffers is the vibrations in my arm/hands which is why I like by hand.

[Mike Phillips]

the issue with the buffers is the vibrations in my arm/hands which is why I like by hand.



Lots of people are senstive to the vibrations associated with dual action polishers. The RUPES polishers are very low vibration but not on the entry level side of pricing.

Maybe just stick with working by hand and as I share in my how-to book, one approach for detailing a car is to ONLY tackle a single panel per day so you don't tire yourself out.

Not sure what page it's on but it's in there.


:)