Review: BLACKFIRE One-Step Cleaner/Wax by Mike Phillips

[Frank70]

I just ordered a sample bottle this last sale. The car has very lite swirls and I'm hoping this will take care of those. I have a PC but going to try first by hand as the swirls are not that bad. Looking forward to receiving.

[Dr Oldz]

I just ordered a sample bottle this last sale. The car has very lite swirls and I'm hoping this will take care of those. I have a PC but going to try first by hand as the swirls are not that bad. Looking forward to receiving.

I wouldn’t bother by hand personally. Use the PC. PCs don’t get much love anymore but they are great machines.

[Frank70]

Yes I know. A year or so ago the PC was recommended and I bought one to get started. Now the rage is Griots polishers. I'll just stick with PC. Too damn old to start collecting polishers.

[JCDetails]

IMO, the difference between the 7424xp and gg6 is minimal at best. An occasional hobbyist would do just fine with either for light polishing duties, and both make for fantastic LSP spreaders for nice thin, even coats.


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[Mike Phillips]

IMO, the difference between the 7424xp and gg6 is minimal at best.

I've been using both tools since they were introduced to the market. I know I have more articles and videos on how to use both than anyone else in the detailing world. Probably have taught more people how to detail with these two tools than anyone else in the world.


I'd have to respectfully disagree with you.

The Griot's 6" ROP has a TON more POWER than the Porter Cable.

In fact, I always take the Porter Cable to all my classes JUST TO SHOW OTHERS how much more power it has and after I put BOTH MACHINES into a person's hands and then after letting them use both tools let them make up their own mind, they ALWAYS agree

Griot's > PC


Been there, buffed that out....

[Solobaric]

Can't wait to try this stuff

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Polishing in direct sunlight is never a good idea. Way too many factors that may give you results less than desirable.


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[Mike Phillips]

Polishing in direct sunlight is never a good idea.

Way too many factors that may give you results less than desirable.

I agree. However, if you're a mobile detailer sometimes you don't have any options. Working in the sun not only includes people that detail cars but also these huge monstrosities that often times are NOT under cover.

• Boats
• RVs
• Airplanes/Jets

For anyone that has to detail in full sun, been there, done that, here are two things I do that help me.

First - start as early as you can in the morning, even working before the sun comes up for things like washing a car.

Second - Anytime you're buffing on paint - SHRINK THE SIZE OF THE AREA YOU WORK DOWN TO SMALLER SIZE.

By shrinking your work size area down as you move the polisher over the surface you'll keep the product you're using more liquid since you'll be agitating it more. If you buff a large section, while you're on one side of the section buffing the product on the other side is drying up on you.

It can seem like you'll go slower by working smaller sections but it's seriously a case of going slower to go faster.

Plus you won't wear yourself out as much trying to wipe off dried product.


Here's an article I wrote 8 years ago on this topic, look at the time stamp...

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I agree. However, if you're a mobile detailer sometimes you don't have any options. Working in the sun not only includes people that detail cars but also these huge monstrosities that often times are NOT under cover.

• Boats
• RVs
• Airplanes/Jets

For anyone that has to detail in full sun, been there, done that, here are two things I do that help me.

First - start as early as you can in the morning, even working before the sun comes up for things like washing a car.

Second - Anytime you're buffing on paint - SHRINK THE SIZE OF THE AREA YOU WORK DOWN TO SMALLER SIZE.

By shrinking your work size area down as you move the polisher over the surface you'll keep the product you're using more liquid since you'll be agitating it more. If you buff a large section, while you're on one side of the section buffing the product on the other side is drying up on you.

It can seem like you'll go slower by working smaller sections but it's seriously a case of going slower to go faster.

Plus you won't wear yourself out as much trying to wipe off dried product.


Here's an article I wrote 8 years ago on this topic, look at the time stamp...

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

Great points, Mike.

[Superjet]

I would apply any conventional wax or sealant over it.

I regularly use SONAX PNS over it.

So is it ok to use the Black Fire SI02 after using the One Step?