The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

[Mike Phillips]

Another example of single stage paint saved without caveman compounds...

4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE



Here's before...





Here's after...
Note, we only did the hood, not the tops of the fenders, if you look at the pictures above I carefully taped the fenders off.

[margallar]

Mike i did an experiment. i mixed meguiars gold class wax (paste) with #7 glaze. applied it thick and wet to the paint, and then wiped it off with a microfiber. the microfiber was picking up more paint than it would with #7 alone. i got a satisfactory finish (not perfect but much better than what it used to be), any chance you could try this? I'd like to know if you approve it

[custmsprty]

Your work is amazing Mike and inspirational to boot!

[gbrittenum]

What wax and/or sealer would you use on a 1988 Mustang with single stage black paint (1c) after the #7 show car glaze treatment? It has set in a garage a couple of years. What would give the glossy finish and longest life (are those two things mutually exclusive)?

If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes, what about the #7 show car glaze do you use it on the stripes?

[freddie46]

Mike, excellent article. When you started the machine polishing phase restoring the paint you chose the light weight Flex 3403 vrg rotary polisher. If one were to buy only 1 rotary polisher how does the 3403 compare to its heavier brother Flex PE-14-2-150? When would you use which polisher?

I just finished working on a 1966 T-Bird, with deep scratches and oxidation. The primary objective was to remove the oxidation and restore the red color. I followed your guide in this article but used different products. I used a griots 6" rop and had fair results with the griots machine polishes and carnauba wax. I have some pics before and after but not sure how to add them to the post. If someone could clue me in I would appreciate it.

[Mike Phillips]

Mike i did an experiment. i mixed meguiars gold class wax (paste) with #7 glaze. applied it thick and wet to the paint, and then wiped it off with a microfiber. the microfiber was picking up more paint than it would with #7 alone. i got a satisfactory finish (not perfect but much better than what it used to be),

any chance you could try this? I'd like to know if you approve it

Probably not...

I'm not a big fan of mixing product to try to create a new product. In most cases, whatever it is I would want to try to create probably already exists in a different form.

I don't care if others do this but I tend to use products straight-up, just the way the chemist intended.

Maybe when I was younger I would do this, but not now... here's a Mike Phillips quote,



"I use to live my life on the edge of the razor blade but now days I live my life on the blade of the butter knife"



The razor blade days was the 20 years I owned a record holding, 122 mph Sanger Drag Boat. That's a lot of years to live on the edge, throw in a few big bikes and everything else has a BBC and you get the idea...

Your work is amazing Mike and inspirational to boot!

Thank you. The work behind transforming the old Lincoln was extensive as was taking all the pictures and then writing the article.

What wax and/or sealer would you use on a 1988 Mustang with single stage black paint (1c) after the #7 show car glaze treatment?

It has set in a garage a couple of years. What would give the glossy finish and longest life (are those two things mutually exclusive)?

If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes, what about the #7 show car glaze do you use it on the stripes?

Any quality product will work fine. For the last 3 classic cars I've restored the paint on I've used the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax as it doesn't stain or dry white. It's also a very clear wax.

See what my buddy Tommy thinks here...

Love Pinnacle Wax

[r1lark]

Mike, for my '54 Studebaker, you recommended the following:

In your case, what this means is instead of doing all this work and then trying to use a wax or sealant that will keep the paint looking great with no more attention for long periods of time, instead, apply the Carnauba Wax as this will provide that deep, wet shine like everyone loves and then on a regular basis, like every 3 months, re-apply the #7 to maintain the results you achieve and then re-apply a coat of wax.

It's time to apply more #7, at least to the hood, roof, and trunklid.

Question: What should I used to take the wax off so the #7 will soak into the paint?

Thanks for all the help Mike. I've gotten a lot of compliments on the paint of this car, especially when I tell people it was last painted in the early 1970s!

[Mike Phillips]

It's time to apply more #7, at least to the hood, roof, and trunk lid.

Question: What should I used to take the wax off so the #7 will soak into the paint?

Thanks for all the help Mike. I've gotten a lot of compliments on the paint of this car, especially when I tell people it was last painted in the early 1970's!

Hi Paul,


That's a good question and congratulations on the compliments on your car and it's finish. Remember to send all your car buddies to AutogeekOnline.net and this article if they have any questions.

Below I'll post my reply, but to help keep this conversation in context, here's your original post on this project.

Mike,

I’m trying to bring back an early-‘70s repaint that is on my ’54 Studebaker, and am following your instructions regarding the use of M07 to ‘feed’ and restore the neglected paint. I’m in the process of using the M07 on the car now, concentrating on the hood/roof/trunklid. I’m on my second 24-hour soaking and plan on continuing that until the paint doesn’t seem to be taking any more of the oils. I’m amazed at how much the terrycloth takes off the oxidation.

Not sure if I will try the M80 at this time, but if I do which of the following Lake Country foam pads would you recommend with my Porter Cable 7424XP: white, orange, or yellow? What speed setting would be best?

The car is stored in an open carport, so does get some sun, dust, etc and will get driven frequently to work, shows, etc so something fairly tough and long lasting is needed to ‘seal in’ the oils from the M07. I have Griot’s Paint Sealant, as well as Meguiar’s Gold Class “Carnauba PLUS paste wax. Would either of these work well? I sort of lean to the Griot’s Paint Sealant since longevity of the protection is primary and the ‘shine’ factor is secondary. Anything even more suitable that you would recommend?

Mike, thanks for any help you can provide me on these questions. I’m just glad that I found your ‘restoring antique single stage paint’ article before I started on this rejuvenation – it definitely changed my direction!

Here's what I would try first...

Simply apply the #7 using a soft foam applicator pad and gently work it in or machine apply it with a foam polishing pad. Make sure you've washed or wiped the car clean first.

Chances are really good that you can still push the oils into the paint as wax will tend to wear off and you can never totally seal a surface. The benefit to doing this is you won't remove any more of the precious paint still on the car.

So try that first and as you apply it... carefully watch for the darkening effect or change in depth and richness of color.

If that doesn't work then you'll want to use your M80 with a polishing pad or even a finishing or waxing pad as it won't take much to remove the previously applied wax. Then re-apply the #7 and then seal with the wax.

[Mike Phillips]

It always surprises me how popular this article is in light of the fact that most people own cars with a basecoat/clearcoat paint system and most detailers work on cars with basecoat/clearcoat paint systems.






And the VIF form thread is uncanny...

[hernandez.art13]

I like the new cars, but I just love classic cars.

And seeing the work that can be done to them always fascinates me the most.