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  1. #61
    Junior Member sberk1012's Avatar
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Hey Mike,

    I think I may have found a finger slip in your post

    "The water spots, swirls and scratches were for the most part completely removed which meets our expectations. Next we switched back to the less aggressive Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish with a Lake Country Flat 6.5" Orange Light Cutting Foam we did our first test spot with to re-polish the section and maximize the gloss and clarity."

    I think you meant the white pad. Thanks for the fantastic writeup

  2. #62
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by sberk1012 View Post
    Hey Mike,

    I think I may have found a finger slip in your post

    "The water spots, swirls and scratches were for the most part completely removed which meets our expectations. Next we switched back to the less aggressive Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish with a Lake Country Flat 6.5" Orange Light Cutting Foam we did our first test spot with to re-polish the section and maximize the gloss and clarity."

    I think you meant the white pad. Thanks for the fantastic writeup

    You're right. Good eye. It's help like this that keeps me sharp. This thread is just about 16 days away from being 5 years old and the information in it is still just as accurate today as when I wrote it. The one exception would be since I wrote that article Lake Country introduced 5.5" THIN pads and that's my preference when using any Porter Cable or any knock-off of the Porter Cable to do correction and polishing work as smaller diameter thin pads rotate better longer than thick large pads.

    Thin is in is the trend and it's not going away...


    Thanks for pointing out the mistake sberk1012. I have edited my original post and corrected the pad type and color recommendation to match the pad I used in the picture that goes with the text.

    This one....







  3. #63
    Junior Member sberk1012's Avatar
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    You're right. Good eye. It's help like this that keeps me sharp. This thread is just about 16 days away from being 5 years old and the information in it is still just as accurate today as when I wrote it. The one exception would be since I wrote that article Lake Country introduced 5.5" THIN pads and that's my preference when using any Porter Cable or any knock-off of the Porter Cable to do correction and polishing work as smaller diameter thin pads rotate better longer than thick large pads.

    Thin is in is the trend and it's not going away...


    Thanks for pointing out the mistake sberk1012. I have edited my original post and corrected the pad type and color recommendation to match the pad I used in the picture that goes with the text.

    This one....







    Glad I could help Mike. Though I'd have to make about 9,000,000 more similar "helps" to come anywhere close to making up for the awesome info and advice you provide to us here


    Are you meaning to tell me I just bought a bunch of old school "fat pads" for polishing? Haha oh well it's hard to keep up with this "detailing world"

  4. #64
    Regular Member Ford Fest's Avatar
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    The one exception would be since I wrote that article Lake Country introduced 5.5" THIN pads and that's my preference when using any Porter Cable or any knock-off of the Porter Cable to do correction and polishing work as smaller diameter thin pads rotate better longer than thick large pads.

    Thin is in is the trend and it's not going away...






    Wish I would have read this first, I bought one of the PC Pinnacle kits with the larger LC pads

    I do still have a few questions. . .

    Most cars I work on are for friends and family. The majority are DD, but there are a couple of garage queens.

    1. If I clay a car, should I use cleansing lotion?

    2. What are some examples of when cleansing lotion is nesesary?

    3. You mentioned that the Pinnacle line is good for minor correction. I have Pinnacle SR, FP and NS. When the swirl remover isn't getting those light scratches. What do you recommend?

    Great write up! I'm enjoying all of the how to articles!
    Newbie

  5. #65
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Fest View Post


    I do still have a few questions. . .

    Most cars I work on are for friends and family. The majority are DD, but there are a couple of garage queens.

    1. If I clay a car, should I use cleansing lotion?
    Only if you're NOT going to do any other polishing steps using a true polish.

    A paint cleaner is for mostly topical cleaning of the surface. It will remove surface impurities that claying can miss.

    Normally if working on a daily driver, that would be a car that has paint that has become dirty over time due to exposure to the world, you want to,

    1. Mechanically decontaminate the paint - Claying or a Nanoskin product.

    2. Clean the paint after claying. This could be by using a paint cleaner, or polishing with a compound/polish or using a one-step cleaner/wax also called an AIO.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Fest View Post

    2. What are some examples of when cleansing lotion is necessary?
    See above and this...


    There's a LOT of confusing over when to use a cleansing lotion or in other words a paint cleaner, also called a pre-wax cleaner.

    This is an either/or type product.

    You are either going to use a compound and a polish, or if the paint is not to pad just a polish, (products with abrasives intended to remove below surface defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation), and THEN GO TO WAX.

    OR

    You're going to skip compounds and polishes altogether but in order to CLEAN the surface of the paint before waxing then use a cleansing lotion/paint cleaner/pre-wax cleaner to clean the surface of the paint to restore clarity and help the coat of wax or sealant to bond better and thus last longer.

    Interestingly enough, we just shot a segment for My Classic Car that covers how and why to use a paint cleaner on a 1973 Nova.

    On the set of My Classic Car with Dennis Gage for 2015


    Paint Cleansing
    This segment goes over the importance of cleaning the paint using Pinnacle Paintwork Cleaning Polish before applying a finishing wax like Pinnacle Souveran. For this segment we covered how to work by hand using the Polishin ' Pal.











    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Fest View Post


    3. You mentioned that the Pinnacle line is good for minor correction. I have Pinnacle SR, FP and NS. When the swirl remover isn't getting those light scratches. What do you recommend?

    Great write up! I'm enjoying all of the how to articles!
    That's easy. Use the same thing Wayne Carini uses in his shop.

    Pinnacle Advanced Compound


    Which we introduced on "My Classic Car" for 2015

    It's the product I'm using on this Model A




    More pictures here,

    On the set of My Classic Car with Dennis Gage for 2015





  6. #66
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Fantastic article. Much respect for Mike Phillips.

    I can't wait for warmer weather here in Maine. I plan on picking up the 7424XP and will use this article as a guide. I haven't done anything besides clay bar and wax up to this, and it doesn't seem too hard. Thanks!

  7. #67
    Super Member tenblade2001's Avatar
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Excellent write up! quick question: would p21s paint cleansor serve the same purpose as the cleansing lotion?

  8. #68
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Mike,

    In other articles you recommend to stay off of body lines and/or apply protective paint on top of them.

    I notice in this how to, you didn't apply the tape to the body lines on the hood. Did you compound/polish over top of them or avoid like your other articles suggest?

    And if so, can you go back over by hand to avoid a discolored line after the removal of the tape? .. i.e... how do you blend the unpolished area with the polished?

    Thanks.

  9. #69
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by Dman81 View Post

    Mike,

    In other articles you recommend to stay off of body lines and/or apply protective tape on top of them.

    I notice in this how to, you didn't apply the tape to the body lines on the hood. Did you compound/polish over top of them or avoid like your other articles suggest?
    Good question.


    When it comes to buffing on top of edges and raised body lines, while it's a good practice to not do it, if you're working on a brand new car where the paint has all it's integrity, and using a dual action polisher, there's not a lot of risk.

    If you're working on an older car and you don't know how many guys have buffed the car out before you, well now you don't know if they were careful.... or not....

    And if "not" you don't want to be the guy to find out the paint was whisper thin on the edges...

    Also, with a DA you don't have to worry about holograms or burn-throughs...

    Also on that particular car I didn't use a compound. I used a medium cut polish followed by a fine cut polish.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dman81 View Post

    And if so, can you go back over by hand to avoid a discolored line after the removal of the tape? .. i.e...

    how do you blend the unpolished area with the polished?

    Thanks.
    If I tape edges or raised body lines I remove the tape before the machine waxing step and then let the spinning pad and wax remove the tape-line and also shine up the paint that was under the tape.

    Not a perfect solution but the lazy man's solution.

    Also, I don't get hung up on perfectionist detailing, especially on daily drivers like the one in this thread.

    Here's an article I wrote and it borrows from what I already wrote in this article...

    Perfectionist Detailing #1 - Compounding & Polishing right up to an edge


    Quote Originally Posted by paramount View Post
    This is good info! I wondered why painters tape was used. So how do you clean or buff the body lines? I'm new to detailing so I apologize for my ignorance.
    It's a great question and a common question. What you're talking about is called,

    Perfectionist Detailing

    While I don't have a dedicated article on this topic I've written about it a lot so for right now, I'm going to just copy and paste what I've already posted to the below thread with a similar question...

    http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...nt-film-2.html


    Quote Originally Posted by 1fastTbird View Post


    Different, but related question: do you guys hand polish body lines before or after taping?

    Or asked another way before or after machine polishing?

    After as then you can remove any tape-line residue.


    I call this, Perfectionist Detailing, that is rubbing out the thin space of paint that runs along trim that was covered by tape. I actually discuss this in in this article I wrote after first coming to Autogeek back in 2009. All the information in this article is just as accurate today as it was when I wrote it and it's a re-write of an even older article on the topic.


    Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

    Here we've taped-off the rubber gasket between the glass and the window frame and I'm pointing to show that there's about an 1/8th of an inch of paint that's not going to get buffed with either of the two polishing steps.

    After the correction steps we'll remove the tape and carefully wax these areas for a uniform look that will match the polished areas next to the tape line.

    While not perfectionist detailing in some eyes, remember this is a daily driver, not a show car.

    You can invest more time and just run the tape down the rubber and get it close to the edge of the panel if you want or just overhang a little like I did here. It's your choice based upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you want to invest.



    The thing about Perfectionist Detailing is that it is very time intensive. Here's the deal...

    If it's your own car go for it as it's your time.

    If you're detailing for money and you can get your customer's to understand the time involved to do this kind of detailing and to pay you by the hour for it... then again, go for it as it's a good gig if you can get it.


    My experience is most won't want to pay for it for a daily driver and only a few will pay for it for SIV's and you still have to educate them.


    Perfectionist Detailing



  10. #70
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

    Quote Originally Posted by tenblade2001 View Post

    Excellent write up! quick question:

    would p21s paint cleansor serve the same purpose as the cleansing lotion?
    Yes.

    They are both non-abrasive paint cleaners.



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