Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming

[dlc95]

While on the subject of pad priming does anyone have any insights or comments on Todd Cooperider of Esoteric and his statement that pad priming is totally unnecessary when using "good products"?

I am specifically referring to him talking about using Megs microfiber cutting pads with Jescar Correcting Compound

He says 3 dots of product and go to work, no priming required

I tried that ONCE and it felt sooooooo wrong

Look up "dry buffing" and there is a picture of me trying that process (well not really)

I know people will use a ton to prime a microfiber pad, blot, brush, or blow out the excess and then put 3 more dots down for actual cutting and I feel that is overkill in the opposite direction

I will use maybe 50% more than I normally would for a section pass to smear in to prime and then a couple dots more

There are a lot of YouTube detailing people who are entertaining but who I certainly don't take advice from but Todd has always seemed to be one of the most genuine and believable people out there

IDK...

I started polishing paint by machine in 1998. The only priming recommended on the Meguiar's bag that the pad came with was a light mist of M34 Final Inspection. The guys at the body shop where I bought my supplies told me about picking up a bead of product. Took a minute for me to get it down without making a huge mess of splatter.

I also had a little 6" orbital from the auto parts store. It was with that thin I learned that only four drops of polish was needed. Back then there were nowhere near as many resources, or options.

So for years I did many cars that turned out great using those methods.

In 2001 or so, I got some literature from Meguiar's that discussed use of their G100 random orbital polisher, and the recommended the "X" pattern or the line of product around the circumference of the pad.

I avoided the "X" because it concentrated product in the center of the pad, where polish tends to migrate as the pad is used. It prematurely over saturated my pads. I still on occasion use the ring around the outside circumference of the pad.

So when the full face priming thing got popular around 2009 or so I found it interesting. I tried it, and like the "X" method, I found it saturated my pads pre maturely, was messy, and inefficient. Like you mentioned about not priming - it felt weird and wrong. The only time I might still do that is when using Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber pads, and that's a strong maybe, because I find the four drops works just fine.

In the end either way is no real big deal. I'm doing this almost seven days a week some weeks and I never do a full face prime. The scangrip lights and panel wipes don't indicate any issues with defect removal or loss of gloss for finish polishing. "All roads lead to Rome" and you just have to do what's right for you. There are two other guys in the shop with me. One has been doing this as long as I have, and also does not face prime. "The Kid" is 22 and just stared last month. He also is a four drops guy, and gets incredible results with his work. He has about two years of experience.

Then there are the times I'm using the Optimum polishes. That's an entirely different situation becaise I'm "priming" the pads in the Lake Country System 4000 pad washer with ONR, and applying a mist of product to the full face of the pad - and after working my section, quickly washing my pad in the washer. Haven't tried the four drops method yet, because it would be in contrast to what I'm trying to do with that set up, which is to be efficient.

[dlc95]

For the OP:

It's not as bad as you might imagine, but there have been times I've primed on a window instead of the paint. I'm personally not a fan of putting as much pressure on the tool as they recommend because it isn't healthy for the hook and loop system. I just tell myself that fifteen seconds isn't going to hurt, and carry on with the job.

[2black1s]

For the OP:

It's not as bad as you might imagine, but there have been times I've primed on a window instead of the paint. I'm personally not a fan of putting as much pressure on the tool as they recommend because it isn't healthy for the hook and loop system. I just tell myself that fifteen seconds isn't going to hurt, and carry on with the job.

I could see priming the pad on a window, or a scrap panel like I mentioned in the original post. Other than that, no way am I running the polisher in a stationary position for 20-30 seconds as depicted. Doing so is contrary to everything I have learned since my first use of a polisher in the late 1960s.

[chilly]

I am very glad that I am not the only one who feels this way. I respect all these professionals and their contribution to the detailing industry.

I personally have experience with RUPES DA System and a lot more with Todd’s approach to paint correction…

Currently, I prefer using Jescar Correcting Compound / Meguiar’s Microfiber Cutting Disc and Sonax Perfect Finish / RUPES DA Fine Foam Pad as my main go to.

I am very proficient with both approach / systems but the one factor that I have been battling with for over a year has been the idea of priming vs. no priming.

I don’t care for the RUPES priming method as I too think that with an inexperienced person, it can be risky. Are we assuming that everyone has a paint depth gauge? Long throw machines has a lot of action happening. Let’s not forget that.

While I can’t speak for everyone, I think we all can agree that achieving a fine finish from the compounding step alone is the best case scenario. Yet at the same time, knocking out light hazing with the polishing step is not difficult to accomplish either.

Currently, I prime all my pads according to the conventional method we all know of. However, I do blow my pads out after with a tornador air gun. But instead of loading up with 3 drops of product, I load up with literally a pea size drop. That is all.

As a side note, I am a low, low speed type of guy who uses the washer mod in case anyone is wondering…

My procedure continues as usual, blow out the pad every few cycles and load up again with one drop of product.

At the end of the day—as long as I, the professional am satisfied with the results I see, then I have a lot of confidence that my clients will be happy.

KISS. Don’t over think it. The end goal it to get rid of defects.

I think a lot of folks are still in the "you can only hurt a car with a DA polisher by throwing it at the car" mindset

That was essentially true with a PC 7424XP (I am not hating, I still own and use one) but as you say, a lot of the newer machines can and will put the hurt on some paint if leaned on and run fast

My Rupes legacy 15mm is washer modded and never sees the high side of speed setting 4

I don't own a paint gauge, I should but I don't know if the $100 gauges I could afford would help me or set me up for a disaster, I have no clue how accurate they are

Instead I just have a very healthy respect for time, pressure, speed, etc and use that to stay out of trouble

So far so good

[dlc95]

I think a lot of folks are still in the "you can only hurt a car with a DA polisher by throwing it at the car" mindset

That was essentially true with a PC 7424XP (I am not hating, I still own and use one) but as you say, a lot of the newer machines can and will put the hurt on some paint if leaned on and run fast

My Rupes legacy 15mm is washer modded and never sees the high side of speed setting 4

I don't own a paint gauge, I should but I don't know if the $100 gauges I could afford would help me or set me up for a disaster, I have no clue how accurate they are

Instead I just have a very healthy respect for time, pressure, speed, etc and use that to stay out of trouble

So far so good

The first time I ever struck through paint was the first job I did with the PC 7424xp. I had a green hex logic pad and Ultimate Compound. Speed 6. That was after years of not doing that with the rotary!

To say I was surprised is an understatement. The job was for my neighbor who I've known since I was born (I kept the house I grew up in).

[chilly]

The first time I ever struck through paint was the first job I did with the PC 7424xp. I had a green hex logic pad and Ultimate Compound. Speed 6. That was after years of not doing that with the rotary!

To say I was surprised is an understatement. The job was for my neighbor who I've known since I was born (I kept the house I grew up in).

I bet that was a sobering moment…

Fingers crossed I never go through that


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[Eldorado2k]

The first time I ever struck through paint was the first job I did with the PC 7424xp. I had a green hex logic pad and Ultimate Compound. Speed 6.

You shouldn’t have been surprised… What did the Meguiars Asia dudes tell you? SPEED 4.

You went against the word of the gospel and got a Rude Awakening.lol.

[dlc95]

I could see priming the pad on a window, or a scrap panel like I mentioned in the original post. Other than that, no way am I running the polisher in a stationary position for 20-30 seconds as depicted. Doing so is contrary to everything I have learned since my first use of a polisher in the late 1960s.

To qualify, I only do that with the Rupes polishes, which isn't very often, because the new line just isn't as good as the previous. I'm actually about to sell off all my Rupes polishes new and old because I just don't enjoy using them as much as Jescar and 3D. I have to imagine that their priming process might play a part in that as well.

There is so much theory, and a lot of over thinking with some of these processes. I don't want to have to do that. Just put some polish on the pad and get on with the show. As long as you or the customer are happy, what the detailer down the street thinks, doesn't even matter.

[Eldorado2k]

I bet that was a sobering moment…

I’ve had at least 5-6 sobering moments, but somehow, by the grace of God, and a sprinkling of sheer luck I’ve somehow managed to escape Scott free each time they’ve happened.

Just a couple of weeks ago, I was polishing the door on a Nissan Armada when the freaking chrome door handle flew off, landing in my neighbors yard… Everything turned into slow motion as I immediately turned my polisher off thinking “well holy crap, this is Horrible”!
Luckily, somehow…. I was able to put the door handle back on the door. It didn’t snap back on, but it didn’t fall back off either… Whew!

Needless to say I didn’t come near that spot with the polisher anymore. I’ve gotten lucky several times and all I can say is thank you to the little angel watching over me during those times.

[chilly]

I’ve had at least 5-6 sobering moments, but somehow, by the grace of God, and a sprinkling of sheer luck I’ve somehow managed to escape Scott free each time they’ve happened.

Just a couple of weeks ago, I was polishing the door on a Nissan Armada when the freaking chrome door handle flew off, landing in my neighbors yard… Everything turned into slow motion as I immediately turned my polisher off thinking “well holy crap, this is Horrible”!
Luckily, somehow…. I was able to put the door handle back on the door. It didn’t snap back on, but it didn’t fall back off either… Whew!

Needless to say I didn’t come near that spot with the polisher anymore. I’ve gotten lucky several times and all I can say is thank you to the little angel watching over me during those times.

Existing hidden damage must be a nightmare for the pros

You can go around a car 19 times with a magnifying glass and a bloodhound and the minute you actually start working you almost always find a “gotcha”




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