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  1. #11
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    Quote Originally Posted by prin View Post

    Thanks for the input Mike!

    I used Sonax Cutmax along with a Meguiars red pad. I even used a lot of pressure at some points and it was like I wasnt even cutting. I tried M110 as well with the same results.

    When it comes to difficult to remove swirls, it can be a number of factors.

    1. Paint is very hard.
    2. Swirls and scratches are deep.
    3. Combination of 1 and 2
    4. Wrong pad
    5. Weak tool
    6. Technique needs tweak




    Read through this,
    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


    Regardless, the thing about the Ceramiclear paint system is you're NOT supposed to compound it hard or you remove the portion that makes Ceramiclear Ceramiclear.


    Just a guess - but did you buy this car used? Or is it a customer car?

    Sounds like someone else has caused a problem that might not be fixable.




  2. #12
    Super Member prin's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    When it comes to difficult to remove swirls, it can be a number of factors.

    1. Paint is very hard.
    2. Swirls and scratches are deep.
    3. Combination of 1 and 2
    4. Wrong pad
    5. Weak tool
    6. Technique needs tweak




    Read through this,
    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


    Regardless, the thing about the Ceramiclear paint system is you're NOT supposed to compound it hard or you remove the portion that makes Ceramiclear Ceramiclear.


    Just a guess - but did you buy this car used? Or is it a customer car?

    Sounds like someone else has caused a problem that might not be fixable.



    I first started using little pressure like always. This did nothing, so I added pressure and I had the same results. The polisher that I’m using is a Rupes Mille. This is a customers car that was bought used.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Super Member Coach Steve's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    I just did an ml500 C040 black 3 days ago. I almost turned it down due to the frustration and headache associated with Ceramiclear. This thing was trashed! You name, it had it. But, it was a friend of a friend that wanted to throw me all of his commercial business so I took the job.

    I don't know what Mike has been smoking but, Ceramiclear as a rule, is hard or at least the top 2-4 mils are. It's designed that way. Once the vehicle has been compounded the first time, the remaining paint is soft, like Honda soft. The person above who stated they only apply it to bumpers and kits is wrong The whole car has it.

    This vehicle had never been corrected so I had my work cut out for me. I used Menz HC400 with Uro-Fiber pads on my 15mm DA. I started with 3D 501 AAT which finjshes down better and leaves no haze, but it didn't cut as well so I switched to the Men's which required following up with FG4000 to remove the haze and dial it in. This was only for the horiz surfaces. The vert surfaces I was able to use the 3D which was a Time saver.

    The Uro-Fiber pads are some very powerful pads. They cut very well and the low nap and thinner profile allows them to be. blown out quite thoroughly which cuts down on having to change pads as often.

    Overall, it came out pretty well but it took about 8 hrs to correct. The customer was ecstatic which is really what counts at the end of the day.

    The part above about the Ceramiclear being very hard unless it's been corrected previously, is something to keep in mind when deciding to take a jkb or not. If it's ever been compounded, it's a completely different ball game and is very easy to correct.
    Look at the paint code. If it has the letter C in front of the numbers, it's Ceramicoat.




  4. #14
    Super Member Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    I have worked on many many MB and I honestly can not tell the difference between their regular clear and ceramic paints. Maybe I am just dumb but I doubt it. They are all nice to correct IMO. Hard enough that they don’t tend to haze yet not so hard that a quality compound struggles. I would agree with Mike’s assessment saying they are in the middle. But each individual paint can be different.

    I would look into other factors. Perhaps technique.... perhaps try a different tool than the Mille(or use the Mille specific polishes)...perhaps there is something on the paint that you need to remove via claying or chemical decontamination..... start at the basics!!
    Jim

  5. #15
    Super Member Coach Steve's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    Oh, it was clayed and prepped properly. Maybe you and Mike got lucky. I can only go by what I've experienced. Why would Menz go.to the effort of making a pkg specifically for Ceramiclear which includes FG400 to be used at the factory if it wasn't hard and needed a very aggressive compound to be able to cut sufficiently?




  6. #16
    Super Member prin's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    I think I got it!!!!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. Likes rlmccarty2000, kafas liked this post
  8. #17
    Super Member Coach Steve's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    What, no follow up?! What did you use to get it?




  9. Likes prin liked this post
  10. #18
    Super Member prin's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    Lol. Sorry Steve. I was so excited that something was working!!! I used the swirl remover by Wolfgang.


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  11. #19
    Super Member Coach Steve's Avatar
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    Re: Ceramiclear clearcoat

    Ok, good to know. I wasn't sure if you got your hands on some obscure compound infused with ground unicorn horn or something.��




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