Turtle Wax Seal and Shine

[expdetailing]

Maybe I got a bunk bottle? Can someone post a pic of little of it. I will do same once I’m home. I’ve been thinking that maybe because it has wax needs more buffing?

Haven’t used anything with wax in it for 15 years.


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I highly doubt that you received a defective product. Seal N Shine leaves a greasy residue--no matter how thin you apply it--that needs washed off after you buff it in after application. Now that the Seal N Shine hype train has flown by, and the dust is settling, the truth is coming out about this product. It went from miracle product to, "Yeah, it should cost six bucks" in three days for me. The shine is nice, but at the cost of staining after buffing? No thank you!

[SWETM]

Maybe I got a bunk bottle? Can someone post a pic of little of it. I will do same once I’m home. I’ve been thinking that maybe because it has wax needs more buffing?

Haven’t used anything with wax in it for 15 years.


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Don't think you are bashing the product so no problemo. Interesting to discuss hows it's works for everyone. I think when you use an application vs a mf towel to wipe it in. You are applying a thicker layer of the product. In some cases it's a benefit and some don't. BSD is such a product that you can have a real problem with when applyied with to much of product and it's leaving a thicker application of the product to wipe off. Also when you apply PNS it's best to apply it in small sections and directly wipe it off. So if I where to apply it with either an applicator or mf towel I would use 1 prime spray and then 1 spray. And spread it in and see how far it goes until the need of more product. If it's reaching longer than expected I will sometimes buff it off sooner and continue with applying what is left in the applicator. Useally when I have a product that is harder to wipe off. I start with a lower loop nap mf towel to cut through the product. And followed directly after with a more plush mf towel to get it to soak up as much of product as possible. When the mf towels start to leaves more streaking than in the beginning. It's saturated with the product and refold or switch to a fresh one.

When I meen sparingly it's 2-3 sprays per a whole hood. Then it's also how big your hood is. The situation for you that it was raining outside when you applyied it. Could be what made it extra difficult to remove. I would test to spray it in a mf towel and spread it out and remove directly after. And maybe do your hood in 4-6 sections to see if it's easier to work with. Also when it's not raining or is crazy humidity. You could just use the 1 prime spray and then 1 spray and apply as far it reaching and reload with 1 spray and so on. You may be still needed to apply it in smaller sections.

One thing that I think impact how easy a product is to leavel and wipe it off. Is how fast the crosslinking or bonding is from the product. Then also what carriers is used in them. Some leaves a more greasy oily finish for getting the gloss up. That's why I think that the ones that do testing with gloss reading from a glossmeter should take reading also after a first wash with just a car soap solution. To see how much they are kind of cheating with the gloss added. Just as a show car wax does. This is just on sealants and when useing a QD for longer protection than to the next wash. It will give us a more value of the gloss other than directly after the application and until it's washed next. And how much higher gloss it gives us in the longrun. This I think can be a downside with the cheaper products but there will be exeptions. For me I want to see how the gloss added is holding up in the longrun too and not just after the application. Cause there are a truth behind the looks just after the application. If I get a high gloss after the application but will degrade much after the first wash. Vs a gloss that's a notch lower but in the longrun is higher after a wash is more valueble for me. The only time the first higher gloss value is important is if when I would go to a show or meet. Like you get from a show car wax. Otherwise the higher gloss in the longrun for me generally speaking.

[Coatingsarecrack]

Yeah I think too much product. I tried 365 gsm and seem’d to move it around. TRC Everest was to “plush” maybe. After let sitting and going back with creature edgeless low nap to remove and long nap to “buff” seemed alright.

You can see application in one pick and was definetly a lot but haven’t had this kinda problem removing over applied sealant before. Maybe like a spray wax? Never used one before.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

Don't think you are bashing the product so no problemo. Interesting to discuss hows it's works for everyone. I think when you use an application vs a mf towel to wipe it in. You are applying a thicker layer of the product. In some cases it's a benefit and some don't. BSD is such a product that you can have a real problem with when applyied with to much of product and it's leaving a thicker application of the product to wipe off. Also when you apply PNS it's best to apply it in small sections and directly wipe it off. So if I where to apply it with either an applicator or mf towel I would use 1 prime spray and then 1 spray. And spread it in and see how far it goes until the need of more product. If it's reaching longer than expected I will sometimes buff it off sooner and continue with applying what is left in the applicator. Useally when I have a product that is harder to wipe off. I start with a lower loop nap mf towel to cut through the product. And followed directly after with a more plush mf towel to get it to soak up as much of product as possible. When the mf towels start to leaves more streaking than in the beginning. It's saturated with the product and refold or switch to a fresh one.

When I meen sparingly it's 2-3 sprays per a whole hood. Then it's also how big your hood is. The situation for you that it was raining outside when you applyied it. Could be what made it extra difficult to remove. I would test to spray it in a mf towel and spread it out and remove directly after. And maybe do your hood in 4-6 sections to see if it's easier to work with. Also when it's not raining or is crazy humidity. You could just use the 1 prime spray and then 1 spray and apply as far it reaching and reload with 1 spray and so on. You may be still needed to apply it in smaller sections.

One thing that I think impact how easy a product is to leavel and wipe it off. Is how fast the crosslinking or bonding is from the product. Then also what carriers is used in them. Some leaves a more greasy oily finish for getting the gloss up. That's why I think that the ones that do testing with gloss reading from a glossmeter should take reading also after a first wash with just a car soap solution. To see how much they are kind of cheating with the gloss added. Just as a show car wax does. This is just on sealants and when useing a QD for longer protection than to the next wash. It will give us a more value of the gloss other than directly after the application and until it's washed next. And how much higher gloss it gives us in the longrun. This I think can be a downside with the cheaper products but there will be exeptions. For me I want to see how the gloss added is holding up in the longrun too and not just after the application. Cause there are a truth behind the looks just after the application. If I get a high gloss after the application but will degrade much after the first wash. Vs a gloss that's a notch lower but in the longrun is higher after a wash is more valueble for me. The only time the first higher gloss value is important is if when I would go to a show or meet. Like you get from a show car wax. Otherwise the higher gloss in the longrun for me generally speaking.

I get it but too much thinking. The PA cosmic wiped on wiped off in same conditions.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

So on to tonight’s testing. 6 squirts of water each side from a kwazar 16oz bottle. Beading was similar on both sides nice and tight.

What I noticed was beads rolling off the hood. There were a lot more on PA side.


PA Cosmic


TW SNS

Again just MY results. Please don’t yell at me. I was impressed for TW SNS in beading. Was on par with hydrosilex and Reload at 1/5th the price but Cosmic is still the leader.

Also the PA side wiped of easier but used a dry eagle edgeless and wiped the TW side first. Being wet may have made for easier absorption on the PA side. Wasn’t testing ease of drying but now I’m curious so I will retest in a week.

Again no hate. It’s a great product. Right now tho I’d put in the Cure/reload arena. I’m sure Cosmic our performed them in some test too.



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[Coatingsarecrack]

Re tried and took farther away pick also so as too see spots were in same area. You can see more run trails on Cosmic side.



TW



PA

Also used same towel. Wiped PA 1st this time and definetly came off easier. PA two wipes and gone. TW 2 wipes and flip for final wipe.


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[rlmccarty2000]

It was lightly raining but car in garage. Garage door open


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In my opinion humidity is the number one reason products don’t perform or streak or leave high spots. I’ve had too many problems with ultra high humidity for it to be chance. Above 95% humidity anything with SiO2 should be avoided. Again this is a YMMV, but my experience tells me to wait for a dryer day.

[rlmccarty2000]

When applying this to a clean surface, as most everyone does, what's the point of hitting it with N914 when you done applying it?

I could not get TW S&S to wipe clean. Using gloss meter my measurements were in the 80 range. Once I washed it with 914 the gloss measurements jumped up to the 92+ range. It was side by side with Premier and I wiped each side with the same type towels and the same pressure. TW S&S just doesn’t wipe clean, but after a quick wash it was almost as glossy as Premier. Now I’m waiting to see how long TW S&S lasts in comparison to Premier (Premier is the longest lasting spray and wipe product I have tested).

[Calendyr]

In my opinion humidity is the number one reason products don’t perform or streak or leave high spots. I’ve had too many problems with ultra high humidity for it to be chance. Above 95% humidity anything with SiO2 should be avoided. Again this is a YMMV, but my experience tells me to wait for a dryer day.

Possible. I had issues with Meg's hybrid ceramic wax today. It was streaking like crazy no matter what I did. I use it dilluted 7:1 and have not noticed issues before... maybe there were but the car colors made them less visible?
Anyway, today was super hot, 32 celcius (90 F) in the shade. I can't say if it was hubid or not, did not feel like it.

After wiping on and off for a while, I gave up and switched to reload. This annoys me, I wanted to use HCM as a maintenance sealant for my ceramic coated clients, looks like I won't be able to. I just ordered a new 32 oz bottle of Reload today, mine was down to about 4 spray's worth

[PaulMys]

In my opinion humidity is the number one reason products don’t perform......

Agreed 100%. And this is also true with non-detailing products such as enamel paints, varnishes, etc.