Review: GYEON Q2 ONE Enthusiast Ceramic Coating by Mike Phillips

[The Guz]

Yes I guess that question probably sounded dumb, but I just wasn't sure if simply losing beading properties meant that a ceramic coating has completely deteriorated. I guess if I were to do a chemical decontamination and the beading came back to life then the coating is probably still present and it was just the road grime and traffic film that was preventing the beading.

I considered CQUK 3.0, but I think I prefer to keep the paint looking as best as possible vs having longer durability of a product. I'm fine with a coating only lasting a year as I want to do a polish every spring and therefore would have to reapply a fresh coating anyways. I like to use forced air to dry my car so the hydrophobicity of a coating is very appealing to me. That and making the weekly washes a little easier. When I stumbled onto Mike's article about a one year coating it peeked my interest. I've read very good things about cancoat as a stand alone product too. It seems as though it provides the same characteristics of a coating but with shorter longevity. I guess I'm just trying to decide if it's worth going the coating route vs using a product like cancoat twice a year.

Our winters are pretty crazy in Canada depending on the province you live in. Although being in Sweden, yours must be pretty much the same I would think. Fingers crossed though as it's been a very mild winter for us so far.

One thing to consider is the application process for Gyeon One is not the most straight forward. Jeff from Gyeon has a how to article on detailed image ask a pro blog. Check it out before investing in One.

I can not tell you to get a coating but one thing I can say is to give it a try and determine if a coating is for you. Gyeon CanCoat is a great product and I would venture to say that it is Gyeon's best coating product. I have had it last 15 months paired with Gyeon Primer Polish here in Southern California. Actually a bit longer on the vertical surfaces compared to the horizontal surfaces. Sure we don't get any show here but it performed as good and at times better than Gyeon Syncro for me. CanCoat is a good option to start with.

CQUK 3.0 is a good option as mentioned. 4 months on my daily driver and it is doing well as is Cquartz TiO2. Other options to consider for 1 year coatings are Sonax CC36 and Optimum Gloss Coat. Sonax CC36 has more aggressive water behavior and performed better for me compared to Optimum Gloss Coat which struggled to make it a year.

[SirFrederick]

Yeah CanCoat would work if applyied spring and fall. It's the winter months that could get it fail in the end. What you can do is to use Gyeon Primer as a polish and apply CanCoat on top of that. And if you are willing to test the coating One and apply that in the spring. You could top it with CanCoat in the fall after a chemical decon. CanCoat is a little more friendly to apply even without a polish first. If you want the looks I would consider Polish Angel Viking Coat. But I would think you will be satisfied with either of the named coatings. And also the water behavior and the ease of washing you get with them too. Then how well the looks and the behavior is until they wears off. It's what Mike Phillips says it comes down how you touch your paint when you maintain the car.

Yeah in the northern Sweden we have a simualar weather as you. And I live in south of Sweden. There we have from 0C to -10C and if it's a colder year down to -20C. The PA Viking Coat was developed in the northern Sweden and Norway IIRC. So a very like weather as you have. And it's not wrong in haveing a 2 year coating on for a year and polishing it off and reapply. It would mean a better protection if any. And the coatings behavior deminishing over time. So some coatings even if 2 years you may want to reapply sooner. To have a great look and a high function on them. That could be a problem with the 1 year ones. That in harsher environment and you drive alot. They can be failing sooner than the 1 year claim and that's the same with the 2 years also. It's not an easy choice to do. And sometimes we get set on a product to test out. And that is not any wrong in that.

Great info. Thanks. The retailer I purchase from said a similar thing. He thought that with our harsh winters that One may not be the way to go and I might be better of with Pure instead. Going with One and then adding a layer of cancoat right before winter may just be enough.

One thing to consider is the application process for Gyeon One is not the most straight forward. Jeff from Gyeon has a how to article on detailed image ask a pro blog. Check it out before investing in One.

I can not tell you to get a coating but one thing I can say is to give it a try and determine if a coating is for you. Gyeon CanCoat is a great product and I would venture to say that it is Gyeon's best coating product. I have had it last 15 months paired with Gyeon Primer Polish here in Southern California. Actually a bit longer on the vertical surfaces compared to the horizontal surfaces. Sure we don't get any show here but it performed as good and at times better than Gyeon Syncro for me. CanCoat is a good option to start with.

CQUK 3.0 is a good option as mentioned. 4 months on my daily driver and it is doing well as is Cquartz TiO2. Other options to consider for 1 year coatings are Sonax CC36 and Optimum Gloss Coat. Sonax CC36 has more aggressive water behavior and performed better for me compared to Optimum Gloss Coat which struggled to make it a year.

Great info as well. I read Jeff's article on One and also his article on Pure. Pure seemed to be the more finicky product to apply though. Maybe finicky is not the right description. Just a different application method compared to the typical cross hatch method normally used with coatings. One seemed pretty straight forward unless applying in high humidity which seems to make it much more grabby when trying to buff and level out.


Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?

[The Guz]

Hopefully Budget chimes in as he used One and he can speak to the application of it. Or PM him.

Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?

Yes it does.

Check out this video about the 4 min mark for more info on Primer Polish.

YouTube

[DetailZeus]

I like your thinking with the light spring polish. The only other factor I'd consider is cost. I personally wouldn't spend $70 on a product that I'm only going to keep on the car for a year. May not be a deciding factor for you but just throwing it out there.

I'm thinking it might be a bit redundant trying to layer One and Cancoat. I haven't used either product myself but if it was me I would just use Cancoat in the spring and add another layer right before winter and call it a day. I wouldn't even sweat if your LSP doesn't last perfectly through the winter. Your light spring polish will take care of any issues.

[BudgetPlan1]

Great info. Thanks. The retailer I purchase from said a similar thing. He thought that with our harsh winters that One may not be the way to go and I might be better of with Pure instead. Going with One and then adding a layer of cancoat right before winter may just be enough.

Great info as well. I read Jeff's article on One and also his article on Pure. Pure seemed to be the more finicky product to apply though. Maybe finicky is not the right description. Just a different application method compared to the typical cross hatch method normally used with coatings. One seemed pretty straight forward unless applying in high humidity which seems to make it much more grabby when trying to buff and level out.


Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?

Sent ya a PM

[BudgetPlan1]

I like your thinking with the light spring polish. The only other factor I'd consider is cost. I personally wouldn't spend $70 on a product that I'm only going to keep on the car for a year. May not be a deciding factor for you but just throwing it out there.

I'm thinking it might be a bit redundant trying to layer One and Cancoat. I haven't used either product myself but if it was me I would just use Cancoat in the spring and add another layer right before winter and call it a day. I wouldn't even sweat if your LSP doesn't last perfectly through the winter. Your light spring polish will take care of any issues.

I did a car last February I believe, Gyeon Primer + Gyeon One + CanCoat. I've seen the car nearly every day since then (HR lady at work) and when it rains, beads still roll of the hood nicely and over all, still looks very good, impressed with the results.

Owner does wash it weekly during nice weather seasons...albeit with Dawn or Joy dishwashing soap (She prefers Joy) but it's still doing quite well so the combo is solid. She drives about 70 miles round trip on freeway so car does see some usage. I find the entire situation somewhat impressive.

I used Gyeon One before the 'new' application process was released and it was the tackiest coating I've ever used, kinda a PIA to apply but flip side was high spots easily (kinda) buffed away over an hour later.

[SirFrederick]

Thanks for all the input for everyone. Thanks Budget for all the additional info you provided.

I'm going to try out a coating once spring arrives. I need to try one out just to ease my curiosity. In the meantime I am hoping to try out CanCoat. We have a warm break in the weather right now, so I'm hoping to be able to apply this next week. I have a new car on the way that is due to arrive any day now. Hopefully the weather will hold for a little longer.

As for coatings I've narrowed it down to 3:

1. Kamikaze Miyabi and Overcoat - This is the most expensive for me as I have to order from the US at Esoteric. With the exchange rate it works out to around $165 for the coating and $65 for the overcoat plus what ever sales tax is there. I just have to time it accordingly to when I'm down in the US so I can save on shipping.
2. Gyeon Mohs Kit and CanCoat - I can get the Mohs Kit (includes Cure) locally for $117 plus additional 15% off and the CanCoat is $65 plus an additional 15% off. So $100 and $55 roughly plus tax.
3. CQUK 3.0 30ml and Reload 500ml - I can get this locally for $73.99 plus an additional 15% off. Reload 500ml is $46.99 plus an additional 15% off. So $63 and $40 plus tax.

I'm eagerly waiting to here what Budget's thoughts are on the CQUK 3.0 application process and finished results. I think this is in his queue right now. Kamikaze seems like the best product in terms of ease of application and end results. It's obviously more money due to the exchange rate, but appears to be a very good product. If the CQUK 3.0 turns out to be pretty good then it may be the way to go at it's price point for me.

[hogie]

That seems like a ton of money to throw at a solution that doesn't last more than a year. I understand the urge to polish it out in the spring, but I feel like today's sealants do a good enough job.

[SirFrederick]

That seems like a ton of money to throw at a solution that doesn't last more than a year. I understand the urge to polish it out in the spring, but I feel like today's sealants do a good enough job.

I decided against doing that. I'm not going to polish it out after a year. I'll go the full life span of the coating. I suspect around 24 months and it will probably be close to it's end life by then. At that point I will probably do a full polish.

There is always the chance that if I like the CanCoat as a stand alone enough I may just stick with that, but the curiosity in me will probably want to try a coating still come spring. CanCoat will also probably be the go to product I use on my wife's vehicle staring next spring unless I don't like it for some reason.

[BudgetPlan1]

Thanks for all the input for everyone. Thanks Budget for all the additional info you provided.

I'm going to try out a coating once spring arrives. I need to try one out just to ease my curiosity. In the meantime I am hoping to try out CanCoat. We have a warm break in the weather right now, so I'm hoping to be able to apply this next week. I have a new car on the way that is due to arrive any day now. Hopefully the weather will hold for a little longer.

As for coatings I've narrowed it down to 3:

1. Kamikaze Miyabi and Overcoat - This is the most expensive for me as I have to order from the US at Esoteric. With the exchange rate it works out to around $165 for the coating and $65 for the overcoat plus what ever sales tax is there. I just have to time it accordingly to when I'm down in the US so I can save on shipping.
2. Gyeon Mohs Kit and CanCoat - I can get the Mohs Kit (includes Cure) locally for $117 plus additional 15% off and the CanCoat is $65 plus an additional 15% off. So $100 and $55 roughly plus tax.
3. CQUK 3.0 30ml and Reload 500ml - I can get this locally for $73.99 plus an additional 15% off. Reload 500ml is $46.99 plus an additional 15% off. So $63 and $40 plus tax.

I'm eagerly waiting to here what Budget's thoughts are on the CQUK 3.0 application process and finished results. I think this is in his queue right now. Kamikaze seems like the best product in terms of ease of application and end results. It's obviously more money due to the exchange rate, but appears to be a very good product. If the CQUK 3.0 turns out to be pretty good then it may be the way to go at it's price point for me.

The Guz is the expert with CQ UK 3, I'm looking to him for advice on the CQ UK 3 front. He's had it on a car for a while now and run through the process and lived with it for a while now.

I'll certainly relay my experiences but he can already make expert judgements on the experience...and if I recall, it's quite a nice application/performance so far.