The daily with CQUK 3.0 + Gliss V1

**The Guz** · 09-05-2018, 02:44 AM

I did this back during the 4th of July week and completed coating it on July 6th. So I have had CQUK 3.0 + Gliss V1 for almost 2 months at this point. I have not had time to sit down and write this.

To start off my daily had Sonax CC36 Ceramic Paint Coating on it for 11 months. One can go to this thread to see the journey with Sonax CC36. After using McKee’s 37 Coating Prep Wash on it, it degraded it. I was going to polish it off at the 12 month mark but plans changed after using the prep wash. Nick did mention it was coating safe but apparently not in this particular case. Anyway I digress.

Review - Sonax CC36 Ceramic Coating

So it was time for re-coat anyway so I decided to polish off Sonax CC36. Like all paint corrections, the prep wash is performed to prep the surface.

I deconned the wheels which I do every now and then since they are coated in GTechniq C5 Wheel Armour + Exo V3. I then washed them with soap, water and various brushes. These were recoated months ago so I would not be touching them after this. I more than likely used C2V3 to top them. I did not touch the tires either as they are coated with McKee’s 37 tire coating. Jay Lenos wheel cleaner was used and it did a fine job. This does not have that strong scent that most color changing wheel cleaners have. Nice clinging ability.

I then proceeded with a semi Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method. Started off with Ironx on the dry painted surface. There was some contamination on the surface which is expected as the car sits outside 24/7.

I gave another round of McKee’s 37 coating prep wash in the foam gun and bucket. Pulled it into the garage and clayed it with Optimum Opti-Clay and CarPro Immolube. Followed up with a prep wipe using CarPro Eraser to remove the residue left behind by Immolube.

I then chose to use Sonax Cut & Finish with Rupes green pads to go over the surface and remove whatever was left from Sonax CC36. There was very little defects on the paint. I was essentially removing the coating with this combo. Followed up with a prep wipe using Eraser.

Final polishing was done with CarPro Essence and CarPro Gloss Pads. Let it sit overnight after initial wipe off to let the SiO2 cure longer. I then came back the next day to prep wipe the surface with Eraser. This is also to remove any dust on the surface along with any residual oils that may have been left over. It was warm and humid when I applied these coatings.

About 90% of the car got two coats of CQUK 3.0 topped with Gliss V1. The hood, roof and trunk have different cquartz combos to compare them side by side for evaluation.

Base layer of CQUK 3.0 with one side topped with TiO2 and Gliss on the other.

Here is the final result.

I later coated the door jambs with Gyeon CanCoat

I ended up replacing the aftermarket LED tails back to the stock OEM tails and am comparing two combinations of coatings meant for plastics a few weeks ago. Also trying out Gyeon Trim over Primer Polish.

**The Guz** · 09-05-2018, 02:45 AM

The only issue I had was that Gliss developed a haze 48 hours after the initial application. It was the only time that this has occurred. The other times it has not. It was gone after the first wash.

**TTQ B4U** · 09-05-2018, 05:16 AM

Originally Posted by The Guz

The only issue I had was that Gliss developed a haze 48 hours after the initial application. It was the only time that this has occurred. The other times it has not. It was gone after the first wash.

I have that happen too. I'm not sure why. I call it "sweating" as it seems like as the layers cure they sweat off this haze. Goes away after and stops after a couple days.

**showbbq** · 09-05-2018, 09:03 AM

One of the nicest Pontiacs I've seen

**The Guz** · 09-05-2018, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by TTQ B4U

I have that happen too. I'm not sure why. I call it "sweating" as it seems like as the layers cure they sweat off this haze. Goes away after and stops after a couple days.

Let's hope that the new V2 addresses this issue.

Originally Posted by showbbq

One of the nicest Pontiacs I've seen

Thanks.

**Rsurfer** · 09-05-2018, 08:26 PM

Originally Posted by showbbq

One of the nicest Pontiacs I've seen

**spazzz** · 09-05-2018, 09:53 PM

Super fine looking GP, Mike.

You even have the Camaro in the driveway.

I am interested to see how these test spots fair.

**DetailZeus** · 09-05-2018, 10:13 PM

Thanks for doing this test! There's no plan to top any of these reload, correct? What's the difference between CQTi02 and CQUK3.0?

I still refuse to believe that a "coating prep wash" stripped a coating. In my opinion if it's safe enough you can mix it in a bucket and put your hand in it then it shouldn't even strip sealants let alone a coating. I have a few theories but the sonax is gone on to next haha.

**The Guz** · 09-05-2018, 11:59 PM

Originally Posted by spazzz

Super fine looking GP, Mike.

You even have the Camaro in the driveway.

I am interested to see how these test spots fair.

Thanks Tim. Good to see you around. It’s been awhile.

FYI I did the Camaro before the GP. The Camaro is now wearing GTechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with Exo V3. Haven’t done a write up on it.

Originally Posted by DetailZeus

Thanks for doing this test! There's no plan to top any of these reload, correct? What's the difference between CQTi02 and CQUK3.0?

TiO2 contains titanium dioxide mixed with SiO2. The TiO2 gives it more reflectivity. At one point it had better stain resistance and better with water spotting.

UK formed the harder layer, although coating hardness is overrated. CQUK 3.0 has been tweaked to handle water spotting better. It is only SiO2 and a higher content of it.

I don’t use Reload or toppers on my personal cars. It will only be getting Ech2o as a drying aid when I wash. I have already used Ech2o on it a few times in these past 2 months since I have recoated it.