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  1. #11
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    I like d300 because how easy it is to wipe off and hardly any dusting. Even the menzerna heavy cut compound wasnt doing much and the swirls dont always seem to bad.

    I'm using the correct technique, tried using different downward pressure but can never get perfection with the rupes L21. I may try that carpro clear cut with some different pads and look into some or the Flex equipment with forced rotation

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  3. #12
    Super Member Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    Too add to my post: Have you tried the Rupes Buffing liquids and Pads? Rupes is a System approach. Perhaps give their pads and buffing liquids a shot.
    Jim

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  5. #13
    Super Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    Only buy a rotary if you are willing to get training with it. I purchased one last year and never use it because every time I try to use it I can't get results even close to my long throw. So training is needed IMO. Once you know how to use it, you should be able to remove defects a DA can't tackle. On super hard clears like Ceramiclear, my DA is totally useless. I can put my most agressive Microfiber pad and use my best compound and damage just doesn't get removed. A rotary should be able to deal with it.

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  7. #14
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    Too add to my post: Have you tried the Rupes Buffing liquids and Pads? Rupes is a System approach. Perhaps give their pads and buffing liquids a shot.
    I started off using the rupes foam pads plus their polish but wasnt really a fan.
    Prefer microfiber

  8. #15
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    I definitely want to train to get to know how to use it. I would like to get into boat detailing at some point so will sort of need to know then

  9. #16
    Super Member rangerbay's Avatar
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    You might want to learn to dampsand if you're going after gel coats or correcting badly damaged clearcoats. A rotary in trained hands is a great tool.

  10. #17
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    Just compounded and polished my neighbors severely oxidized Toyota pickup. I tried my da with foam and wool/m100. No go. Broke out the rotary with wool. Success. Polished with my DA and m205/foam pad. Looks great.Sometimes a rotary is the ticket.

  11. #18
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    A couple of more questions.

    Is it cars with known hard clearcoats you don't get satisfied with the finish?

    And do you use a polish to finish after your d300 and mf pad?

    How does the swirls looks like after you are done? Does they looks like small pigtales?

    Is the paints very neglected and has alot of deeper swirls?

    About how many passes per sections do you do when compounding and polishing?

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  13. #19
    Super Member DaveT435's Avatar
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    My PE-14 saves me a lot of time on hard clears and single stage paint. As long as you use common sense you shouldn't have any problems. Watch some videos, a little practice wouldn't hurt. I think there is a lot of unjustified fear when it comes to rotaries.
    2015 F-150 Crew Cab Lariat
    2016 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS

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  15. #20
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    Re: To buy a rotary or not?

    My PE14 is one of my favorite tools in the arsenal.

    IMO, Rotary is the fastest DEEPEST defect removal especially with a wool pad. I think a long throw (21mk2) comes close speedwise on large flat panels, but in the curves or taking out sanding scratches- rotary all day.

    Again, my opinion, but the 3401 and mille (own or owned both) aren't as fast or as smooth as either the rotary or the long throws, but are a "safer" option if you're worried about holograms or burning the paint. Mille is a great tool and quite a bit smoother than the 3401, but still not as silky smooth as a rotary.
    Brandon Visser | 269-569-1900 | b5visser@live.com
    Owner/Appearance Specialist | @domainappearance

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