Gyeon Coating Questions

[BudgetPlan1]

Last night I finally washed the truck I did with Mohs (February 2017) and then topped with CanCoat (and then added Booster just for fun).

Wish CanCoat woulda been around 10 years ago when I was only semi-ocd about cars; what a handy product.

Details on how the above went:

Gyeon Mohs – 2011 Ford Ranger, Bright Red
Applied 2 layers, Feb 20, 2017
Topped with Gyeon Cure, Feb 21 2017
Mileage since application approx 12K miles
Maintenance since application: None; no washing, no topping, no nuthin’
Vehicle sits outside pretty much 24hrs a day, Fleet Truck for seasonal pool company. Driven/used by staff, generally treated worse than a rental car.

Finally brought truck home to wash/check it all out. Truck has stayed clean and good looking throughout the 8 month period, among the best of the ones I was watching at staying clean.

Upon initially rinsing with hose, it appeared that ALL beading was gone from horizontal surfaces. Water just laid flat on hood and roof. To the touch, surface felt like it had no LSP of any type on it, no slickness whatsoever. A few bird bombs on hood rinsed off with a little pressure from hose. Vertical surfaces (fenders, doors and bedsides) still maintained what appeared to be slight hydrophobic behavior and just a slight amount of beading.

One area that appeared to still have initially coating present/water behavior was a small triangle below each side view mirror, first thought being that the small area was always shaded by side-view mirror…I dunno but it was a distinct triangular area on both doors directly below the mirror that looked like coating had been recently applied with respect to water behavior.

Baggie test felt like much contamination, very gritty. So, decided to try a few things:

1. Foam bath with Chem Guys Honeydew Snow Foam Cleanser at about 1:5 dilution with a MTM PF22 Foam Cannon, SunJoe SPX3001 1.76 GPM, 2030 PSI pressure washer. Let foam dwell for recommended time, 3 or 4 minutes and then rinsed with pressure washer. No apparent change to surface.

2. Bucket wash with Gyeon Bathe and then dry…No apparent change to surface.

3. Decon with Sonax Fallout Cleaner, saw a bit of bleeding, applied, and agitated with foam applicator pad, let dwell, rinsed with pressure washer. Bucket wash with Gyeon Bathe, dried…no apparent change to surface visually but baggie test showed about 75% reduction in surface contaminants…perhaps even a bit more.

4. Clayed very lightly with Nanoskin Fine Grade Clay mitt during another bucket wash with Gyeon Bathe, rinse and dry. Baggie test indicated very smooth surface but water behavior and feel of dry paint was unchanged…still felt/acted like no LSP was on surface. Nanoskin also left no marring for whatever that’s worth.

Generally the truck has been used and abused over the last 12K miles/8 months. Has the Gyeon Mohs held up? While it appears that the coating is gone (lack of water behavior and slickness, aside from the 2 spots under the mirrors), why does the truck always look clean and shiny? I dunno. Also, since claying with Nanoskin left no marring, is the coating still there at some level providing some protection to marring? I noticed some round stains prior to washing that indicated cups/cans/bottles were set there at some point, they easily removed during wash and tar on the rocker panels came off with much less effort than on non-protected vehicle, what gives? Again, I dunno. After using Booster, I think it might be a nice addition to a Mohs application. Doing a relatively new white Ford 150 w/ Mohs in a few weeks, think I’ll add the Booster just for fun after 2 layers of Mohs.

Anyway, I figured what the heck and after the above washing and decon I applied two coats of Gyeon CanCoat topped with an application of Gyeon Booster 12hrs later. Truck looks great again.

Other items of note:

Gyeon Foam > Chem Guys Honeydew Snow Foam, albeit more expensive

Gyeon CanCoat: Where have you been all my life? For a quick application of some protection, this stuff is just great. Applied to entire truck in about 10 minutes, great look, slick…no runs, no streaking. If this stuff lasts for even 3 months with somewhat regular maint. and the surface protection is somewhat solid, why this stuff is more popular I can’t understand. If this kinda thing woulda been available back when I was only semi-ocd about my cars, what a great option it woulda been. Due to its relatively low cost, easy application, great looks why mess around with stuff like sealants if this is available? Because of its low cost and relatively shorter lifespan, I could see applying this to a vehicle after decon/clay with no paint correction (if clay left no marring), much like many do with sealants/waxes but with the added protection of a coating. If this stuff woulda been around when I was a Zaino disciple, I woulda been far better off using it and get far better protection and self-cleaning behavior.

Gyeon Booster: This was almost as much fun (and similar low effort application) as the CanCoat. It’s a product that must be applied with a little faith and attention to ‘feel’. It flashes so quickly that you’re kinda going on faith as to where it has/has not been applied although the slickness it added immediately to surface gave another good indication as well. It added a nice bit of gloss and after letting cure for two days throwing a cup of water at the hood resulted in nice beads, most of which rolled right off the hood. The North American Gyeon rep indicated that Mohs + Booster is essentially a ‘consumer version’ of the pro-only Gyeon Durabead product, albeit slightly less ‘substantial’. I like it…kinda pricey, though. Ended up getting the Ranger covered with about 15-20ml of Booster.

[MattPersman]

Good info there ! Appreciate all your sharing and finding for us


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[Desertnate]

Good info there ! Appreciate all your sharing and finding for us


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Ditto!

After quite a bit of digging, I never found much on these products. There is more information in this one thread than I found everywhere else put together.