? About WolfGang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant

**andrew b** · 11-05-2012, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by Ironman

This brings up a very good question, and one that I've spent much time thinking about. I'm not a professional detailer; just an avid car enthusiast. However, after reading many posts and talking to different detailers here locally, they all agree that in order for a product (wax or sealant) to adequately adhere to a paint's surface and obtain the most durability and lifespan from that product, the paint must be cleaned and all impurities removed prior to application. I think we all agree with that statement.

Here is where I get confused and maybe someone can fill me in and correct me if I am wrong. Once your sealant has been applied (in this case, WDGPS), and cured to the paint's surface, any product applied after that (in this case, 845) is actually being applied to the surface of the sealant, and not directly onto the paint. So, I don't see how the 845 will adequately adhere to the paint surface if a based product is already adhered to the paint's surface. I just don't see how the 845 or any other product can hold up very long if it's trying to bond to a silicone based product such as WDGPS.

I like the concept and I do this myself, but I've often wondered if I'm wasting 845.

Just my thoughts and by no means am I arguing the point; just hoping to get clarification.

thanks all,

In my experience, waxes will adhere fine to sealants (I've done this with Klasse SG, Four Star UPP, WG DGPS, and BFWD). So topping with a good wax works well - but is almost strictly cosmetic, since the wax will fade way before the sealant does.

Most sealants do/will not bond to a wax surface, so once you've topped, if you want to put on more sealant, you need to either wait until you're certain the wax has worn/baked off, or strip it with a cleaner.

All that said, I love the looks of a good wax on top of WG DGPS. I'd do 2 coats of DGPS for longevity, then top with your wax of preference for looks.

**EddieF** · 11-05-2012, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by netoje

Are samples 2oz or 4oz? Gonna get the WDGPS sample with my next order.

Sorry for the late response, you probably already got you're order, they are 2oz.

**Ironman** · 11-09-2012, 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by andrew b

In my experience, waxes will adhere fine to sealants (I've done this with Klasse SG, Four Star UPP, WG DGPS, and BFWD). So topping with a good wax works well - but is almost strictly cosmetic, since the wax will fade way before the sealant does.

Most sealants do/will not bond to a wax surface, so once you've topped, if you want to put on more sealant, you need to either wait until you're certain the wax has worn/baked off, or strip it with a cleaner.

All that said, I love the looks of a good wax on top of WG DGPS. I'd do 2 coats of DGPS for longevity, then top with your wax of preference for looks.

Great, and thanks for explaining that to me. Makes sense.

**Eddie 70** · 12-02-2012, 08:10 PM

Just got started on my 2012 Super Black Maxima with WG DGPS this afternoon. It sure makes the car slick feeling. Tomorrow afternoon another coat will go on. Not sure about topping it with wax yet. Happy with the application process and removal process.

**primo spaghetti** · 12-02-2012, 08:22 PM

i topped WGDGPS on my black ram with 2 coats of liquid nattys blue...very nice...

most comment they top with fuzion.

**Joshs2013MSAltimaSL** · 12-02-2012, 08:29 PM

Ahh...WGDGPS...such a good sealant! I haven't used it in a while, but I remember it looking fantastic and lasting a good while. I would definitely let it cure for at least 12 hours before topping it with anything.

I also wouldn't go past 2 coats of anything. The first coat will bond to the paint, the second coat is really for "insurance" to ensure all areas were covered; this second coat will also bond to the layer of sealant already on the car. Any coats after that don't have a good surface to bond to so you're essentially just wasting product.

**andres** · 12-03-2012, 08:51 AM

After washing and claying, I’ve used Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound (UC) and Swirl Remover #9 for correction, then, I followed with WG Paintwork Polish Enhancer (WGPPE). I specifically liked the gloss resulting after breaking WGPPE with machine, and since this contains oils for the enhancement of the paint, I decided to do two applications (so as to saturate the paint). Subsequently, I applied two coats of WGDGPS 3.0 (about 16 hours cure time).
I would have continued with Fuzion (which contains carnuba wax and WG sealant) , but I didn’t have it; so, I decided to experiment with Meguiar’s #26 as my final step after the 2nd coat of WGDGPS 3.0 had cured . I applied #26 by hand, and I realized it wasn’t binding at all (if I apply #26 in the first pass, it will be removed in the second pass). So, again, I decided to applying it thick, and doing it twice. So, next time around, I plan to mix the more economical #26 and WGDGPS 3.0, and observe whether this mixture separates after a while; if no separation, I will apply it to the car and see whether it works better or not.

**andrew b** · 12-03-2012, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by Joshs2013MSAltimaSL

Ahh...WGDGPS...such a good sealant! I haven't used it in a while, but I remember it looking fantastic and lasting a good while. I would definitely let it cure for at least 12 hours before topping it with anything.

I also wouldn't go past 2 coats of anything. The first coat will bond to the paint, the second coat is really for "insurance" to ensure all areas were covered; this second coat will also bond to the layer of sealant already on the car. Any coats after that don't have a good surface to bond to so you're essentially just wasting product.

I agree with that except for Klasse SG. For some reason, the third layer of KSG really makes the finish pop. Using the Klasse twins, the "formula" that seems to work best (and was followed by most folks when KAIO and KSG were one of the only boutique sealants out) is KAIO x2 (to really clean and prep), and KSG x3. Top with wax for that extra deep wet look...

**Joshs2013MSAltimaSL** · 12-03-2012, 09:22 AM

Originally Posted by andrew b

I agree with that except for Klasse SG. For some reason, the third layer of KSG really makes the finish pop. Using the Klasse twins, the "formula" that seems to work best (and was followed by most folks when KAIO and KSG were one of the only boutique sealants out) is KAIO x2 (to really clean and prep), and KSG x3. Top with wax for that extra deep wet look...

I believe it's also true with one of the Zaino products, though I can't say for sure as I've never used any Zaino products besides their clay. For the majority of the products out there, they aren't really "layer-able" lol.

**TroyScherer** · 12-03-2012, 09:43 AM

Originally Posted by andrew b

I agree with that except for Klasse SG. For some reason, the third layer of KSG really makes the finish pop. Using the Klasse twins, the "formula" that seems to work best (and was followed by most folks when KAIO and KSG were one of the only boutique sealants out) is KAIO x2 (to really clean and prep), and KSG x3. Top with wax for that extra deep wet look...

That would be because KSG is an acrylic sealant and is layer-able. Most acrylic sealants bond and cure very quickly. The bonding is near immediate and the curing is usually within an hour. I now use KSG like this and can do multiple layers in a day.